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Thinking of trying something.

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
So i had a redbull fridge from a bar. decent size. it worked but i pulled it appart anyways. i have a big evap and condenser now out of it with the fans. i am thinking about adding both to my loop after a good cleaning of the tubing with lacquer thinner to make sure there is no left over PAG oil.

I have a stock H60 right now. i want to change out the tubeing and add a res and both of the coolers. so that leaves me a few issues.
1. the differance in hose size i will have to step up to. {1/4" to 3/8"}
2. will the stock pump handle more rads?
3. i have to buy more 120mm fans. {around 6}
4. the fins are spaced a little bigger than what we normally use for water cooling so what can i expect? a little cooler or not so much because of more free air flow and less resistance.

what do you think? should i give it a go? suggestions and commits are welcome. will post pics of them tomorrow.
post #2 of 6
Thread Starter 
ok pictures as promised.





so what do ya think? should i try it?
the big one i can custom mount on top with an, aluminum shroud, and the other i can mount on the back with a shroud to pull air from the case. I am a fabricator, painter, and cnc router operator at work so i have no issues making it work, but i just want to know if it would be worth all the time and efforts.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
well the small thick one had to much resistance. the long one how ever works grate, i have 2x 120mm 40 cfm fans on it, i noticed it takes longer to heat up from the extra water. i also shaved 6 deg*C off my top end to put me at 38*C. nice little drop. i also have it in a closed loop, no res yet. think i need a real pump, block, and rads next..lol
post #4 of 6
I doubt it will work. Minifridges aren't meant to cool a lot, they are meant to keep the temp inside the insulated fridge down. This means they turn off when it's down, and turn on when they need to bring it back down. If you add an active heatload the compressor is constantly running. They are not meant for continuous use, and will likely burn out if you have an active heatload. It will also be unlikely to be able to keep the loop cool once you add an active heatload.

People talk about using minifridges all the time. Quite simply, they don't work. Also, you took it apart. o.O As in you removed the refrigerant? Isn't that expensive to re-plumb?
The Laboratory
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
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Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
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Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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The Laboratory
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
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Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
i used the parts off it. i am not using it as a phase change cooler but as a water cooler. i added the big one to my loop and replaced all the hose with 1/4" ID clear tubing. i did find out the H60 comes factory with antifreeze of some sort. it was a dark green mixture and smelled like my jeeps antifreeze.
post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fryer View Post

i used the parts off it. i am not using it as a phase change cooler but as a water cooler. i added the big one to my loop and replaced all the hose with 1/4" ID clear tubing. i did find out the H60 comes factory with antifreeze of some sort. it was a dark green mixture and smelled like my jeeps antifreeze.

Oh, I see. That's quite a bit different. Well, you'll definitely want to get a different pump. The Corsair AIO CLCs have a really weak pump. If I remember correctly it has .2gallons per minute nominal flow. It is designed to be cheap, and work for that system and nothing more. It does that, but is pretty useless for anything else. The "anti-freeze" in the corsair clc is water and propylene glycol mostly.

You'll want to get tubing with an inner diameter of at least 3/8". 1/4" inner diameter tubing causes significantly more restriction.

When you fill you'll also probably want to use a coolant with corrosion protection to be safe. Fesser One and Mayhems XT-1 would probably be best.
The Laboratory
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
KeyboardPowerCase
Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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The Laboratory
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
KeyboardPowerCase
Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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