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What parts do I need to make a 10-pin and 18-pin molex Bridge/Jumper connector - Page 3

post #21 of 24
Yes, agree, when you connect the original cable that, in effect is what the dual pins are doing and are connected to each other. I wonder why the SeaSonic techs didn't tell me this.
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post #22 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Elf View Post

Yes, agree, when you connect the original cable that, in effect is what the dual pins are doing and are connected to each other. I wonder why the SeaSonic techs didn't tell me this.

I just tested which of the dual pins go where:

Pin 10 (12V) goes to the 10 pin connector, but because the PSU works just fine with my 10 pin connector and the original cable (no connection between them) = we don't need to connect these 2 pins.
Pin 6 (5V) goes to the 18 pin connector, so the 2 pins need to be connected.
Pin 3 (Ground) again goes to the 18 pin connector, so the 2 pins need to be connected.
Pin 2 (3.3V) goes to the 18 pin connector too, so the 2 pins need to be connected.

So I need to connect together 6 pins on the 18 pin connector, right?
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post #23 of 24
That's the way I read it. I wonder why the 12V on the 10 pin connector doesn't need to be connected?
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post #24 of 24
Thread Starter 
Great success.

After some measurements and tests this is how the PSU operates:

Top connectors have 3.3V, 5V and Ground connected. Bottom one has only PSU_ON and Ground connected.


Which made me think: If 12V going back to the PSU is not required, then surely 5V and 3.3V are not needed either. And I was correct: only ground connected on the top connector is needed:



Do you think any short term or long term damage can happen from running this PSU outside its designed state. Obviously it requires 12V, 5V, 3.3V and Ground to be returned back to the PSU, but I eliminated the voltages and left only the Ground loop and it still works.
Probably it needs the voltages back so it can test and monitor them for drops.


Now I have to do the same for EVGA 1300W. Will report back.
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