Originally Posted by Kevin_CL
I would NOT paint directly over the white powder coat. cpachris's build was actually a two stage powder coat, not paint. If you do want to paint over the powder, get yourself a palm sander and a few sheets of 220 and 600 grit sandpaper. Don't use the paper sandpaper, use sandpaper sheets that almost feel like they are made from canvas (they will last MUCH longer). I forget what its called, but your local hardware store or homedepot should know what I'm talking about. You are going to want to sand all of the texture off the powder coat with the 220. Be very careful with the bends and the corners of the part, as it is very easy to sand too much there. Once the texture is gone finish the prep with the 600. Then, wash the parts and make sure there is no dust from the powder on the part.
To get a really nice consistent finish you really do need a sealed paint booth and a proper gun/compressor. If you are doing this at home with limited supplies I would recommend getting several spray can tips so they don't clog up. I would also no recommend shooting outside, say like in your backyard. You may think its a nice calm day, but you would be surprised how much of a pain it is to try and use spray cans in even the slightest breeze.
To be completely honest I have never painted a computer case before, but I have spray painted many other things. I could be wrong here, but unless you have access to a proper gun/compressor and a seal booth (or some type of room free from dust/breezes) I would even attempt something like B NEGATIVE's paint job.
Kevin speak the truth here,spraying over mismatched finishes can result in odd results.
Dust is the killer,to combat this you need a sealed environment and keeping the floor soaking wet will help massively.
I can do a thread giving my methods if this helps.
The CL primer finish is exceptional,if you want to paint then get that factory primer.
Another tip for the rattle can sprayers is to keep the work piece warm as possible and leave the can in hot water for 20 mins,this aids massively with can pressure and warm paint flows better
The basics are as follows,green scotchbrite the primer,degrease with a thinner/paint wipe,4-5 light coats with a 2 to1 paint/thinner ratio of the base,if you want to finish there then a coat of 1 to 1 paint/thinner ratio,this gives a deep gloss finish. If you want to go for a effect paint then blow 2-3 coats of that over the base (follow the exact ratio as specced by the paint supplier) then 2k clear over the top.
Prep is more important than anything else,get that right and you cant really go wrong.
Take the time to set your gun up with correct pressure and feed.
Originally Posted by XNine
Your best option with such a premium case is to have someone paint it or powdercoat it professionally if you do not have the equipment to do it yourself. I know B Negative spent quite a bit on his painting equipment (more than the case).
Since we powdercoat our cases, the process is quite a bit different and would need to be completely removed in order for a successful paint job.
There IS plastidip, but your colors are limited to red, black, and white. It's pretty neat stuff but there is a learning curve to applying it.
The compressor and gun are relatively cheap but the paint,especially special effect paint is expensive.....