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Pre-paint Informations - Page 2

post #11 of 16
You do NOT need to remove powdercoat before painting something. In fact, you DON'T want to remove the powdercoat. Powdercoat adheres wonderfully to base metal - you want to take advantage of this fact - because now the hardest part has been done for you. The hardest part about painting metal is prepping and priming the METAL - but you're not painting metal here, you're painting POWDERCOAT.

If the part has been powdercoated, you only have to lightly sand it with some ScotchBrite, clean with PrepSol, then paint away. Don't use sandpaper. It's far too aggressive and too easy to sand off corners. You don't need primer either. Primer is for painting bare metal - you're not painting bare metal. It also matters not what the case is made out of if it's powdercoated because let me repeat this - you're not painting metal, you're painting powdercoat.


ScotchBrite (red pad)
PrepSol
Paint


That's it.
Edited by Cavi Mike - 11/28/13 at 1:30am
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post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavi Mike View Post

You do NOT need to remove powdercoat before painting something. In fact, you DON'T want to remove the powdercoat. Powdercoat adheres wonderfully to base metal - you want to take advantage of this fact - because now the hardest part has been done for you. The hardest part about painting metal is prepping and priming the METAL - but you're not painting metal here, you're painting POWDERCOAT.

If the part has been powdercoated, you only have to lightly sand it with some ScotchBrite, clean with PrepSol, then paint away. Don't use sandpaper. It's far too aggressive and too easy to sand off corners. You don't need primer either. Primer is for painting bare metal - you're not painting bare metal. It also matters not what the case is made out of if it's powdercoated because let me repeat this - you're not painting metal, you're painting powdercoat.


ScotchBrite (red pad)
PrepSol
Paint


That's it.

Red pad is too coarse,thats for rust/flakey paint removal,not for any kind of finishing work.

Mixing paint finishes is not recommended.
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post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

1)Kevin speak the truth here,spraying over mismatched finishes can result in odd results.
Dust is the killer,to combat this you need a sealed environment and keeping the floor soaking wet will help massively.
I can do a thread giving my methods if this helps.

2)The CL primer finish is exceptional,if you want to paint then get that factory primer.

3)Another tip for the rattle can sprayers is to keep the work piece warm as possible and leave the can in hot water for 20 mins,this aids massively with can pressure and warm paint flows better
The basics are as follows,green scotchbrite the primer,degrease with a thinner/paint wipe,4-5 light coats with a 2 to1 paint/thinner ratio of the base,if you want to finish there then a coat of 1 to 1 paint/thinner ratio,this gives a deep gloss finish. If you want to go for a effect paint then blow 2-3 coats of that over the base (follow the exact ratio as specced by the paint supplier) then 2k clear over the top.

Prep is more important than anything else,get that right and you cant really go wrong.

4)Take the time to set your gun up with correct pressure and feed.

5)The compressor and gun are relatively cheap but the paint,especially special effect paint is expensive.....

1) Sadly I don't have enough space to do it in a sealed environment, I'll probably have to do it like you did for your S3, outside on a table ^^
But I would love to see a thread of your methods, I think it would help a lot of people out there smile.gif

2) I own my white STH10 since a few months now, but next one I'll take a primer version if I want to paint it.

3) Thanks for the info but I'm not a huge fan of using can-spreay, specially because for the STH10 I would need a pretty good amount, its not a problem to spend a lot for paiting, but cans are not really an options for me. Plus I have a paint-gun so it will be easier with that (hopefully rolleyes.gif )

4) I saw that you used a paint-gun for your S3 work as well, any recommendation for the pressure ?

5) For the paint I just wanted to do a black base without 2K clearcoat (hopefully its possible, I hate glossy effect) So nothing really expensive. I'll probably end up mixing Black base with Purple base to get a really deep purple. Should fit my new theme perfectly.

Thanks for all these advices and tips ! Rep+
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavi Mike View Post

You do NOT need to remove powdercoat before painting something. In fact, you DON'T want to remove the powdercoat. Powdercoat adheres wonderfully to base metal - you want to take advantage of this fact - because now the hardest part has been done for you. The hardest part about painting metal is prepping and priming the METAL - but you're not painting metal here, you're painting POWDERCOAT.

If the part has been powdercoated, you only have to lightly sand it with some ScotchBrite, clean with PrepSol, then paint away. Don't use sandpaper. It's far too aggressive and too easy to sand off corners. You don't need primer either. Primer is for painting bare metal - you're not painting bare metal. It also matters not what the case is made out of if it's powdercoated because let me repeat this - you're not painting metal, you're painting powdercoat.


ScotchBrite (red pad)
PrepSol
Paint


That's it.

So I would just need to sand my white case a bit ? if there is no need to remove the powdercoat it's really nice, I thought I would need to remove it from XNine post.
Thanks for this too smile.gif Rep+!
post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by tSgt View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

1)Kevin speak the truth here,spraying over mismatched finishes can result in odd results.
Dust is the killer,to combat this you need a sealed environment and keeping the floor soaking wet will help massively.
I can do a thread giving my methods if this helps.

2)The CL primer finish is exceptional,if you want to paint then get that factory primer.

3)Another tip for the rattle can sprayers is to keep the work piece warm as possible and leave the can in hot water for 20 mins,this aids massively with can pressure and warm paint flows better
The basics are as follows,green scotchbrite the primer,degrease with a thinner/paint wipe,4-5 light coats with a 2 to1 paint/thinner ratio of the base,if you want to finish there then a coat of 1 to 1 paint/thinner ratio,this gives a deep gloss finish. If you want to go for a effect paint then blow 2-3 coats of that over the base (follow the exact ratio as specced by the paint supplier) then 2k clear over the top.

Prep is more important than anything else,get that right and you cant really go wrong.

4)Take the time to set your gun up with correct pressure and feed.

5)The compressor and gun are relatively cheap but the paint,especially special effect paint is expensive.....

1) Sadly I don't have enough space to do it in a sealed environment, I'll probably have to do it like you did for your S3, outside on a table ^^
But I would love to see a thread of your methods, I think it would help a lot of people out there smile.gif

2) I own my white STH10 since a few months now, but next one I'll take a primer version if I want to paint it.

3) Thanks for the info but I'm not a huge fan of using can-spreay, specially because for the STH10 I would need a pretty good amount, its not a problem to spend a lot for paiting, but cans are not really an options for me. Plus I have a paint-gun so it will be easier with that (hopefully rolleyes.gif )

4) I saw that you used a paint-gun for your S3 work as well, any recommendation for the pressure ?

5) For the paint I just wanted to do a black base without 2K clearcoat (hopefully its possible, I hate glossy effect) So nothing really expensive. I'll probably end up mixing Black base with Purple base to get a really deep purple. Should fit my new theme perfectly.

Thanks for all these advices and tips ! Rep+

You can cheat a little with the spraying environment,Get a large 4 man tent and spray inside that...cheap and a good work around. A high quality mask and filter are a must for any spraying.
I didnt spray outside,I have access to a booth but not an oven.

I run my gun at around 60 psi but really you need to practice with the paint and gun to get the best result. Also get a water trap for your gun,compressed air has a quantity of water in it that will ruin paintwork,the trap catches it before it enters the gun

Get a purple paint and use a black candy dropper to darken it. Remember the exact mix ratio for repeatable results or mix up a quantity and store the remainder.

Finish with a matt clearcoat if thats you taste.
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post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

You can cheat a little with the spraying environment,Get a large 4 man tent and spray inside that...cheap and a good work around. A high quality mask and filter are a must for any spraying.
I didnt spray outside,I have access to a booth but not an oven.

I run my gun at around 60 psi but really you need to practice with the paint and gun to get the best result. Also get a water trap for your gun,compressed air has a quantity of water in it that will ruin paintwork,the trap catches it before it enters the gun

Get a purple paint and use a black candy dropper to darken it. Remember the exact mix ratio for repeatable results or mix up a quantity and store the remainder.

Finish with a matt clearcoat if thats you taste.

Thanks again for advices, really appreciate that smile.gif
post #16 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by tSgt View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

You can cheat a little with the spraying environment,Get a large 4 man tent and spray inside that...cheap and a good work around. A high quality mask and filter are a must for any spraying.
I didnt spray outside,I have access to a booth but not an oven.

I run my gun at around 60 psi but really you need to practice with the paint and gun to get the best result. Also get a water trap for your gun,compressed air has a quantity of water in it that will ruin paintwork,the trap catches it before it enters the gun

Get a purple paint and use a black candy dropper to darken it. Remember the exact mix ratio for repeatable results or mix up a quantity and store the remainder.

Finish with a matt clearcoat if thats you taste.

Thanks again for advices, really appreciate that smile.gif
No problem,always happy to help a fellow CL owner.

I will start a thread on this that will go into more detail when im back from work.
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