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[ urgent ]harpic toilet cleaner anti bubbles??? " Hydrocchloric Acid" - Page 3

post #21 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mas View Post

Not everywhere is where you live. I can't find any bloody distilled anywhere in my area, the only places I've found it are online from the other side of the country, and they want like $40 for shipping + around $30 for the water. For some reason most of the distilled vanished a couple of years ago out here, and everything you find is now "demineralised". There are arguments back and forth and it's generally accepted that demineralised is the same, or close enough for our purposes but I think it has a higher chance of the PH being off.

BTW, I strongly agree, you need to dump your coolant(s), thoroughly flush out your loop and inspect for damage. You're not even meant to mix coolants because the outcome isn't "balanced" properly. I dunno what you were thinking putting toilet cleaner in there. Are you trolling?

And I understand that but I don't think the OP has stated where they live. Absolute worst case scenario, you can make distilled water.



Couldn't resist.
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post #22 of 29
Hmm..I was hoping there'd be Sodium Hypochlorite and vinegar in that pic sad-smiley-002.gif:
 
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post #23 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by jellybeans69 View Post

Shouldn't hurt tubing at all however Hydrochol. acid reacts with iron leaving FeCl , similar reactions with other metals.

Yeah, the C in PVC stands for chloride, meaning chlorine ions. HCl shouldn't react with that. Any acid, especially strong acids (sulfuric, nitric, and halogens sans fluorine) do not go well with metals more active than hydrogen (which behaves as either a halogen or alkali metal - it's weird), meaning, for this community in general, you only need to worry about iron, nickel, and possibly chromium. I still wouldn't recommend it.
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post #24 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mas View Post

Not everywhere is where you live. I can't find any bloody distilled anywhere in my area, the only places I've found it are online from the other side of the country, and they want like $40 for shipping + around $30 for the water. For some reason most of the distilled vanished a couple of years ago out here, and everything you find is now "demineralised". There are arguments back and forth and it's generally accepted that demineralised is the same, or close enough for our purposes but I think it has a higher chance of the PH being off.

BTW, I strongly agree, you need to dump your coolant(s), thoroughly flush out your loop and inspect for damage. You're not even meant to mix coolants because the outcome isn't "balanced" properly. I dunno what you were thinking putting toilet cleaner in there. Are you trolling?
Same as me i got 10 L demineralised ... no distilled in all supermarkets i got the last 2 5L in a gas station it's for car batteries ....

Edited by HitMe - 11/26/13 at 1:15am
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post #25 of 29
As far as watercooling goes, the difference between distilled and deionized (aka demineralized) is inconsequential. Go with distilled if you can get it easy / cheap enough, but if where you live distilled is hard to find and deionized is prevalent, then by all means you can use it instead with no worries. It's true that it's possible that not all of the biological impurities are removed from deionized like they would be in distilled, but once you add it to your loop you are going to be introducing impurities to the fluid regardless. Just as long as you are going to use a few drops of PTNuke or a silver kill coil or some other similar biological control in your loop, you're good to go.

here's a good reply from another thread about it from someone who knows the deal ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by opt33 View Post

If you have easy access to both get distilled. But in Europe many use deionized, since it is everywhere and cheap like distilled is in USA, and distilled is more difficult to access. And since OP is in Canada, if they have easy cheap access to deionized and not distilled, then I would use deionized in that case...but I would check cost in pharmacy if u say they sell it.

Fact is you will probably introduce more bacteria and microorganisms yourself than exists in either distilled or deionized water... from your components that you handled, fittings, your pouring water, inside rad, inside your res, etc. And using a biocide will make either distilled or deionized ok.
post #26 of 29
well a premix coolant can only dye some of your part , and you can even buy a transparent one if you want anyway .
if you go with only water silver coil/or pt nuke , you have the chance of having the ph off , or not enough anti-bio in the loop and you have nothing against corrosion.

for me the safest way is still premix by far , i've only heard of component getting dyed by the coolant , platicizer issue are the same with water or coolant.
on the other hand i 've heard many nasty story about people doing something wrong with water , with consequence worst then changing your tube and brushing your blocks ,....

i just find it crazy that people dare to say it s easier/safer just because they read once a story about dye breakdown while complitely ignoring all the story about corrosion and nasties with water.
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post #27 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

As far as watercooling goes, the difference between distilled and deionized (aka demineralized) is inconsequential. Go with distilled if you can get it easy / cheap enough, but if where you live distilled is hard to find and deionized is prevalent, then by all means you can use it instead with no worries. It's true that it's possible that not all of the biological impurities are removed from deionized like they would be in distilled, but once you add it to your loop you are going to be introducing impurities to the fluid regardless. Just as long as you are going to use a few drops of PTNuke or a silver kill coil or some other similar biological control in your loop, you're good to go.

here's a good reply from another thread about it from someone who knows the deal ...

The two are more or less interchangeable in a WC loop with a biocide. I actually preferentially choose DI water (partly because I can get it at work for free) because the purity of the water is higher (lower TDS). You're correct that organic matter might still remain (bacteria) but like you said, any biocide will kill the remaining organisms and leave you with a higher purity end result.
post #28 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OwaN View Post

The two are more or less interchangeable in a WC loop with a biocide. I actually preferentially choose DI water (partly because I can get it at work for free) because the purity of the water is higher (lower TDS). You're correct that organic matter might still remain (bacteria) but like you said, any biocide will kill the remaining organisms and leave you with a higher purity end result.
i did add some Swiftech Hydrx Water Additive Coolant uv red dye water is pure system is up and runing


i found some oxidation on Y connector from ocool
and some metal dust about 3 small pieces...
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post #29 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

As far as watercooling goes, the difference between distilled and deionized (aka demineralized) is inconsequential. Go with distilled if you can get it easy / cheap enough, but if where you live distilled is hard to find and deionized is prevalent, then by all means you can use it instead with no worries. It's true that it's possible that not all of the biological impurities are removed from deionized like they would be in distilled, but once you add it to your loop you are going to be introducing impurities to the fluid regardless. Just as long as you are going to use a few drops of PTNuke or a silver kill coil or some other similar biological control in your loop, you're good to go.

here's a good reply from another thread about it from someone who knows the deal ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by OwaN View Post

The two are more or less interchangeable in a WC loop with a biocide. I actually preferentially choose DI water (partly because I can get it at work for free) because the purity of the water is higher (lower TDS). You're correct that organic matter might still remain (bacteria) but like you said, any biocide will kill the remaining organisms and leave you with a higher purity end result.

Yes, as I said, it is generally accepted that they are the same or close enough for our purposes.

The main difference is the chance PH being off, which can react unfavorably with some dyes/coolants, changing their colour
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