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post #1341 of 1588
If you are still not happy with your VRM temps increase the speed of the G10 bracket fan. Worked for me.
post #1342 of 1588
Quote:
Originally Posted by criminal View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aonex View Post

With the popularity of the G10, I'm wondering if other AIO cooler sellers will be coming up with their own GPU bracket.

You can almost bet Corsair is working on something. thumb.gif

Corsair has mentioned that they will not offer a gpu bracket unless they can offer warranty on the card also ... or along those lines, not their exact wording. I would think Corsair would be more inclined to partner with a waterblock company in a joint venture aio/gpu cooling solution.
post #1343 of 1588
Has anyone used a g10 on a 280x here?

I'm curious if there are any issues or anything extra I might need (GPU shims). This is when NZXT decides to straighten out all of the messed up orders -_-
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post #1344 of 1588
Quote:
Originally Posted by v3n0m90 View Post

Has anyone used a g10 on a 280x here?

I'm curious if there are any issues or anything extra I might need (GPU shims). This is when NZXT decides to straighten out all of the messed up orders -_-

Friend of mine uses one on his, no shims needed unless he has a 290x its the r9 280x thats super popular and was like beast beast beast mode for a while till nvidia started upping their game right?

anyways hes has the same issue a lot of us have with the screws being too short, he rmoved the rubber grommets/spacers like i do with my 780 ti's and then he has enough room for what sounded like 900 to 1200 degrees worth of rotation per screw head, but i wouldnt recommend 12000 or anything past that i use heatsinks on a heatspreader or unisink as ppl are saying, i just call it my acx base plate, he used thermal tape to apply heatsinks to his VRAM and he added a line of heatsink(s) attached to the pcb itself again with thermal tape directly next to the vrm.

He was having big issues with the VRAM and VRM being way way too hot. I am actually in the process of testing temps with my 780 ti acx cooler vs 780 ti with acx heat spreader plate and heatsinks on top with stock thermal pads on vram, vs my 2nd./3rd attamept at another full installation that will be again using a unisink/acx plate but with 5w phobya thermal adhesive pads. gonna check temps like that then add heatsinks also with the same pads because i hear of VGAs running thermal tape and pads with less than 2W/ek or w/e the forumla is for thermal conductivity, And i know the best heatsinks for those of us using unisinks atm imo are the enzotech bcc9 copper sinks (bmr-c1l) the short ones not the long ones cuz ull be wasting your money like ive seen ppl do a lot. On the box they rate their tape at 3W so thats why im gonna be using my phobya 5w on them after i test the acx cooler plate by itself.

So yeah you must get heatsinks, ive seen ppl get away with the cheap aluminum fin and even annodized blue honeycomb heatsinks on 280x cards and they claim no problems and super cheap to get, they used the stock thermal tape, i would highly recommend opting for the enzotechs or any copper heatsinks at the very least and using phobya's 7w thermal adhesive pads to apply the sinks directly to your vram, then id recommend the taller versions of the enzotechs for some areas, and then of course youll need something to line the VRM with on the PCB (this is another must) use the pre-applied thermal tape or get your own like i recommend. Keep in mind the 280x cards and the 780 and 780 ti cards so far that i know of can have up to 9mm clearance across the whole g10 plate, but its a close fit, so most ppl stick with under 5 or 6mm so you usally see the aluminum ones there since the VRM in every case ive heard of is under the g10 plate near the fan.
Also ive heard talk about using thermal tape/pads along with a backplate for better cooling, i only use/like the back plate for rigidity i dont want any card warp whatsoever, and since the plates i use came with thermal tape for the back of the gpu i believe it helps there but not worth using elsewhere on the back.

For those looking for options in terms of what you have to have and might wanna get for your possible g10...

Bottom of the barrel aftermarket thermal adhesive pads from what ive read, but its what im installing unless i coulda got the 7w thermal conductive ver instead of this 5w stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Pad-Ultra-5mm-120x20mm/dp/B004230RPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393774621&sr=8-1&keywords=phobya+thermal+pad
(note id recommend 1.5mm pads to for any use other than the GPU, some ppl claim stock pads being 1 or even .5mm i call bull, and some ppl think the only stuff worth getting is 3mm thick so see the following link)
http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Thermal-pad-Ultra-100x100x3mm/dp/B003WJ3AWQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1393774621&sr=8-4&keywords=phobya+thermal+pad

The good TIM pads imo but am told is low end, the 7w phobya pads, this is the site u wanna discover pads on:
www.frozencpu.com/products/13409/thr-114/Phobya_Thermal_Pad_XT_120mm_x_20mm_x_15mm_-_7Wmk_V-Regs_RAM_Ramplex_Koolance_MIPs_Innovatek_19101.html

The most amazing thermal pads i wish i could afford, perfect for everything, 17W/mk thermal confuctivity!!! (expensive):
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17502/thr-186/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_15_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1289

The most popular top end heatsinks (they dont fit under the g10 plate):
http://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C1-MOSFET-Heatsinks-Pack/dp/B004CLDIHK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393773687&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=enzotech+bmr-c1l

My favorite(currently only ones i use) top end heatsinks, the literal shorter version of the heatsink listed above:
http://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-BCC9-Memory-Ramsinks-BMR-C1L/dp/B0036G3E8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393774507&sr=8-1&keywords=enzotech+bmr-c1l

Super low profile copper heatsinks id highly recommend getting over anything aluminum:
http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_cp_pc_1

Everyone do yourself a favor and read about replacing thermal pads and tapes, theres more to it than you think and for proper results you wanna do it right once you superate the 2 surfaces pressuring the pads u gotta replace it. When you gotta replace the stuff you gotta cleean it just like you would thermal paste/compound. Be very carefu not to get any oil from your skin on the pads components or heat spreaders/uniplates.

My two favorite fans for the g10... stock fans just never cut it...

Arcttic f9 pro PST (allows for another pwm or 3 pin fan to sync its relative speed aka be controlled by the f9 pro) Best overall aftermarket fan imo especially if you get a fan controller adapter like myself to allow your 780 ti to have evga precion control your gpu fan and both 120 or 140 rads in push pull if you use a splitter to plug those fans into the f9 pro...
http://www.amazon.com/Artic-Cooling-ARCTIC-Computer-AFACO-09PP0-GBA01/dp/B00261JWWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393775433&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic+f9+pro

Supposedly way better but you have you have to break it in, and it does deliver the best cfm to dba or air fow to sound ratio of almost any fan out there, but since its a lil bulky and literally the same as the arctic f9 before beaking it in only its not a pwm fan. Either way an amazing fan worth checking out, silenx effizio also comes in blue
http://www.amazon.com/SilenX-EFX-09-15-Effizio-Silent-92mm/dp/B005ZF65E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393775607&sr=8-1&keywords=silenx+92mm

and their best version is in white....
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226045
74cfm at 15 dba eek.gif

As for rad fans hopefully your going the 140mm router in which case you can use phanteks or bitfenix pros, theyre all great fans, super quiet great air flow and plenty of static pressure, the phanteks SP14LED is awesome tho but has some noise to it compared to the cougar led and bit fenix led fans. Cougars are the best for silence, bit fenix wins the middle, if you dont mind noise weight or some sound phanteks got the best non pwm fan with leds. And finally theres the crazy prolimatech sleek 14 "15mm thick" fans with crazy cfm for like 16 dba and you can pair them with a static flow and directional clamp on extra they sell for it, ive got two with the extra parts in my build atm with a lian li air duct and love em

http://www.amazon.com/COUGAR-HB-Fan-Blue-LED/dp/B00C42TL7K/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y
http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-BFF-LPRO-14025R-RP-Spectre-140mm-Case/dp/B007OWPV6U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1393777016&sr=8-5&keywords=bitfenix+pro+led
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-140mm-1300RPM-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B00FZM2ZHE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776991&sr=8-2&keywords=phanteks+pwm
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-140mm-400mm-Extension-PH-F140SP_BK_BLED/dp/B00E9NZW7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776969&sr=8-1&keywords=phanteks+sp+led
http://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-Ultra-Sleek-Vortex-Mounting/dp/B00B1WQ4VA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776642&sr=8-2&keywords=prolimatech+sleek+14
http://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-Static-Booster-14-Black/dp/B00HRJ550W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776931&sr=8-1&keywords=prolimatech+sleek+14

Now a few silly things you will want. I mean now for the real business tongue.gif
An eraser to clean ur VRAM or is it VRMs to get rid of the grease from old pads grease soaked into the plastic. (only if your replacing your pads, you can reuse pads i am perfectly fine but im only getting air cooler temps) Both nvidia and some pad company mention once they are uncompressed after being put into a setup you cant just tighten up the screws/plate/VGA again and expect the same numbers.
Dont forget a closed loop water cooler for your g10 and dont get an arctic hybrid cooler biggrin.gif
Lots of surface (at least thats who i use) wet and dry non alcoholic wet and lint free dy cloth kits (thats just me)
Cleaning wipes with only isopropyl in it. (me again, it doesnt do the real job not enough alcohol.
Now i like using arcticleans 2 piece kit the surface remover and purifier it just like using 99% ispropyl only it doesnt dry as fast, you need dry lint free cloths for one of the bottles for each use tongue.gif the alternative everyone seems to use is 99% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and coffee filters since they are lint free... tongue.gif
And lets forget about TIM for that heatsink whether u go kraken or corsair doesnt matter, i find corsair easier to mount, harder to orient in a case, whereas the reverse is true for krakens in my experience.

I am not advertising sites to purchase from i just find it easier to use the sites i found them on than go google the company to navigate their site in the hopes of finding what i wanna link


.... wow that was long, time to get back to that 780 ti just gotta dissassemble and clean the vrm and vram now then assemble and im done =) Super glued my nzxt screws to the braket to replicate what the 2nd batch does with the screw on bolts, because i just cant stand trying to assemble the thing 10 times cuz the screws wont line up.
Edited by TheMadHatta - 3/2/14 at 8:23am
post #1345 of 1588
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMadHatta View Post

Friend of mine uses one on his, no shims needed unless he has a 290x its the r9 280x thats super popular and was like beast beast beast mode for a while till nvidia started upping their game right?

anyways hes has the same issue a lot of us have with the screws being too short, he rmoved the rubber grommets/spacers like i do with my 780 ti's and then he has enough room for what sounded like 900 to 1200 degrees worth of rotation per screw head, but i wouldnt recommend 12000 or anything past that i use heatsinks on a heatspreader or unisink as ppl are saying, i just call it my acx base plate, he used thermal tape to apply heatsinks to his VRAM and he added a line of heatsink(s) attached to the pcb itself again with thermal tape directly next to the vrm.

He was having big issues with the VRAM and VRM being way way too hot. I am actually in the process of testing temps with my 780 ti acx cooler vs 780 ti with acx heat spreader plate and heatsinks on top with stock thermal pads on vram, vs my 2nd./3rd attamept at another full installation that will be again using a unisink/acx plate but with 5w phobya thermal adhesive pads. gonna check temps like that then add heatsinks also with the same pads because i hear of VGAs running thermal tape and pads with less than 2W/ek or w/e the forumla is for thermal conductivity, And i know the best heatsinks for those of us using unisinks atm imo are the enzotech bcc9 copper sinks (bmr-c1l) the short ones not the long ones cuz ull be wasting your money like ive seen ppl do a lot. On the box they rate their tape at 3W so thats why im gonna be using my phobya 5w on them after i test the acx cooler plate by itself.

So yeah you must get heatsinks, ive seen ppl get away with the cheap aluminum fin and even annodized blue honeycomb heatsinks on 280x cards and they claim no problems and super cheap to get, they used the stock thermal tape, i would highly recommend opting for the enzotechs or any copper heatsinks at the very least and using phobya's 7w thermal adhesive pads to apply the sinks directly to your vram, then id recommend the taller versions of the enzotechs for some areas, and then of course youll need something to line the VRM with on the PCB (this is another must) use the pre-applied thermal tape or get your own like i recommend. Keep in mind the 280x cards and the 780 and 780 ti cards so far that i know of can have up to 9mm clearance across the whole g10 plate, but its a close fit, so most ppl stick with under 5 or 6mm so you usally see the aluminum ones there since the VRM in every case ive heard of is under the g10 plate near the fan.
Also ive heard talk about using thermal tape/pads along with a backplate for better cooling, i only use/like the back plate for rigidity i dont want any card warp whatsoever, and since the plates i use came with thermal tape for the back of the gpu i believe it helps there but not worth using elsewhere on the back.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
For those looking for options in terms of what you have to have and might wanna get for your possible g10...

Bottom of the barrel aftermarket thermal adhesive pads from what ive read, but its what im installing unless i coulda got the 7w thermal conductive ver instead of this 5w stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Pad-Ultra-5mm-120x20mm/dp/B004230RPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393774621&sr=8-1&keywords=phobya+thermal+pad
(note id recommend 1.5mm pads to for any use other than the GPU, some ppl claim stock pads being 1 or even .5mm i call bull, and some ppl think the only stuff worth getting is 3mm thick so see the following link)
http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Thermal-pad-Ultra-100x100x3mm/dp/B003WJ3AWQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1393774621&sr=8-4&keywords=phobya+thermal+pad

The good TIM pads imo but am told is low end, the 7w phobya pads, this is the site u wanna discover pads on:
www.frozencpu.com/products/13409/thr-114/Phobya_Thermal_Pad_XT_120mm_x_20mm_x_15mm_-_7Wmk_V-Regs_RAM_Ramplex_Koolance_MIPs_Innovatek_19101.html

The most amazing thermal pads i wish i could afford, perfect for everything, 17W/mk thermal confuctivity!!! (expensive):
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17502/thr-186/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_15_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1289

The most popular top end heatsinks (they dont fit under the g10 plate):
http://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-MOS-C1-MOSFET-Heatsinks-Pack/dp/B004CLDIHK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393773687&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=enzotech+bmr-c1l

My favorite(currently only ones i use) top end heatsinks, the literal shorter version of the heatsink listed above:
http://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-BCC9-Memory-Ramsinks-BMR-C1L/dp/B0036G3E8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393774507&sr=8-1&keywords=enzotech+bmr-c1l

Super low profile copper heatsinks id highly recommend getting over anything aluminum:
http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_cp_pc_1

Everyone do yourself a favor and read about replacing thermal pads and tapes, theres more to it than you think and for proper results you wanna do it right once you superate the 2 surfaces pressuring the pads u gotta replace it. When you gotta replace the stuff you gotta cleean it just like you would thermal paste/compound. Be very carefu not to get any oil from your skin on the pads components or heat spreaders/uniplates.

My two favorite fans for the g10... stock fans just never cut it...

Arcttic f9 pro PST (allows for another pwm or 3 pin fan to sync its relative speed aka be controlled by the f9 pro) Best overall aftermarket fan imo especially if you get a fan controller adapter like myself to allow your 780 ti to have evga precion control your gpu fan and both 120 or 140 rads in push pull if you use a splitter to plug those fans into the f9 pro...
http://www.amazon.com/Artic-Cooling-ARCTIC-Computer-AFACO-09PP0-GBA01/dp/B00261JWWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393775433&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic+f9+pro

Supposedly way better but you have you have to break it in, and it does deliver the best cfm to dba or air fow to sound ratio of almost any fan out there, but since its a lil bulky and literally the same as the arctic f9 before beaking it in only its not a pwm fan. Either way an amazing fan worth checking out, silenx effizio also comes in blue
http://www.amazon.com/SilenX-EFX-09-15-Effizio-Silent-92mm/dp/B005ZF65E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393775607&sr=8-1&keywords=silenx+92mm

and their best version is in white....
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226045
74cfm at 15 dba eek.gif

As for rad fans hopefully your going the 140mm router in which case you can use phanteks or bitfenix pros, theyre all great fans, super quiet great air flow and plenty of static pressure, the phanteks SP14LED is awesome tho but has some noise to it compared to the cougar led and bit fenix led fans. Cougars are the best for silence, bit fenix wins the middle, if you dont mind noise weight or some sound phanteks got the best non pwm fan with leds. And finally theres the crazy prolimatech sleek 14 "15mm thick" fans with crazy cfm for like 16 dba and you can pair them with a static flow and directional clamp on extra they sell for it, ive got two with the extra parts in my build atm with a lian li air duct and love em

http://www.amazon.com/COUGAR-HB-Fan-Blue-LED/dp/B00C42TL7K/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y
http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-BFF-LPRO-14025R-RP-Spectre-140mm-Case/dp/B007OWPV6U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1393777016&sr=8-5&keywords=bitfenix+pro+led
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-140mm-1300RPM-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B00FZM2ZHE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776991&sr=8-2&keywords=phanteks+pwm
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-140mm-400mm-Extension-PH-F140SP_BK_BLED/dp/B00E9NZW7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776969&sr=8-1&keywords=phanteks+sp+led
http://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-Ultra-Sleek-Vortex-Mounting/dp/B00B1WQ4VA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776642&sr=8-2&keywords=prolimatech+sleek+14
http://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-Static-Booster-14-Black/dp/B00HRJ550W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776931&sr=8-1&keywords=prolimatech+sleek+14

Now a few silly things you will want. I mean now for the real business tongue.gif
An eraser to clean ur VRAM or is it VRMs to get rid of the grease from old pads grease soaked into the plastic. (only if your replacing your pads, you can reuse pads i am perfectly fine but im only getting air cooler temps) Both nvidia and some pad company mention once they are uncompressed after being put into a setup you cant just tighten up the screws/plate/VGA again and expect the same numbers.
Dont forget a closed loop water cooler for your g10 and dont get an arctic hybrid cooler biggrin.gif
Lots of surface (at least thats who i use) wet and dry non alcoholic wet and lint free dy cloth kits (thats just me)
Cleaning wipes with only isopropyl in it. (me again, it doesnt do the real job not enough alcohol.
Now i like using arcticleans 2 piece kit the surface remover and purifier it just like using 99% ispropyl only it doesnt dry as fast, you need dry lint free cloths for one of the bottles for each use tongue.gif the alternative everyone seems to use is 99% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and coffee filters since they are lint free... tongue.gif
And lets forget about TIM for that heatsink whether u go kraken or corsair doesnt matter, i find corsair easier to mount, harder to orient in a case, whereas the reverse is true for krakens in my experience.

I am not advertising sites to purchase from i just find it easier to use the sites i found them on than go google the company to navigate their site in the hopes of finding what i wanna link


.... wow that was long, time to get back to that 780 ti just gotta dissassemble and clean the vrm and vram now then assemble and im done =) Super glued my nzxt screws to the braket to replicate what the 2nd batch does with the screw on bolts, because i just cant stand trying to assemble the thing 10 times cuz the screws wont line up.

Damn man, thanks for all the info. I knew I was going to have to get VRAM heat sinks but my card actually came with a whole bracket that covers them. (Thank you ASUS) It's meant for people that take apart their cards and do LN2 cooling I believe. Not sure if they came with any backing pre-applied to them, I doubt it. But in any case i'll look into getting the pads you mentioned. I wasn't crazy about the idea of using something like the Arctic Thermal Epoxy.
Black Carbon
(22 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z ASUS Matrix Platinum r9 280x gSkill Ripjam X Series (1866mhz) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO Seagate Barracuda #1 Seagate Barracuda #2 Toshiba 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Corsair h100i Corsair h55 NZXT Kraken g10 Corsair AF140mm (x2) 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Corsair AF120mm (x2) Corsair SP120mm (x4) Windows 7 Pro Some old Acer monitor. 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair k70 NZXT Hale 82 850w NZXT h440 (Black & Red) Gigabyte m6900 
Mouse PadAudio
Steel Series Logitech 5.1 Speakers 
  hide details  
Black Carbon
(22 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z ASUS Matrix Platinum r9 280x gSkill Ripjam X Series (1866mhz) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO Seagate Barracuda #1 Seagate Barracuda #2 Toshiba 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Corsair h100i Corsair h55 NZXT Kraken g10 Corsair AF140mm (x2) 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Corsair AF120mm (x2) Corsair SP120mm (x4) Windows 7 Pro Some old Acer monitor. 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair k70 NZXT Hale 82 850w NZXT h440 (Black & Red) Gigabyte m6900 
Mouse PadAudio
Steel Series Logitech 5.1 Speakers 
  hide details  
post #1346 of 1588
Quote:
Originally Posted by v3n0m90 View Post

Yeah I wouldn't ever wanna mess with epoxy unless it was somethin' stupid I was expecting to get rid of soon, I did some more digging around and just can't seem to find out what my current pads are rated for on the fresh ACX cooler but either way from the sound of things if wanna swap to my dremeled ACX plate I already have waiting, so i technically according to two solid sources i should swap out, and im hoping the stuff is a bit of an upgrade. I read someone say .5mm is for VRAM, 1 is for VRM or something else, and 1.5 is for pcb and not to use it on vram, yet im reading ppl saying theyre using 3 or getting 3mm for their vram lol, i just eyeballed it and whether its gonna compress and be smaller idk but they look about the same. im also curious to see how laying down a whole strip or at least enough to cover all 4 VRAMs per sidewithout cutting "the exact size" of the vram as so many say and do, will actually benefit me or be worse. Ive seen so many ppl cut their pads/adhesive so large that they practically coulda just not cut it between the vram, But i saw one person who had some after market setup and they had a liberal amount of the pads covering the entire areas that had anything that woud need it, and i have read that its also meant to fill gaps between plates and pcb whether it be on any sort of module or not.

Nice on the asus card, i actually had to fry 3 resistors on my old 780 ti cuz i figured and it looked like the heatsink made full contact with the acx plate still on, so i just never unscrewed that plate and then i smelled smoke and the pc crashed and... yeah lol. i like the look of the asus one and wish i had gone asus since im running a rampage IV extreme with a xonar phoebus sound card and would kill to get my hand on that ROG panel showcased at CES. Having all asus would just feel and look so nice XD

I really like MSI's setup too i wouda gone with them if i didnt favor asus since their 780ti i was looking at had a back plate a heat spreader/uniplate and then the cooler, and the heatspread base plate deal needs no modding for the g10 to go right on im sure of it and looks like it supports a lot better vrm and vram cooling on top of having room to add more of your own stuff. Not to mention they have a ln2 setup aswell and i beilieve theirs is the card that has the 2 pin connector on it for an led? or maybe thats asus? i forget who makes that one, ive been wondering what my 2 pin plug does on my evga 780s for ages and my best guess is its for, what was.... checking the voltage, or upping the voltage? naw upping the voltage wouldnt make sense...

Im still surprised to find theres no big guides or non commercial feeling videos on youtube with info on everything g10 atm and everything thermal pad, adhesive pad, tape, and after market look-out-fors or what ever you wanna call it lol, theres plenty of info here for the g10 but u rly gotta spend ur time flippign thru the pages and know to get to this thread asap, as for the thermal pad thats just a shock that theres so little info, or i just suck at doing research cuz im finding polar opposite answers and arguments when i ask myself anything about the topic and wanna look into it lol

experience has always been my best source of info otherwise it just feels like guess work literally guessing lol
post #1347 of 1588
I just installed my G10 on my R9 290 using the following:

VGA Aluminum Heatsink 13x13x7mm on the vram.
Micro Thermal Heatsink 6.5x6.5x12mm on small cluster of VRMs. I also bought a small, inexpensive, adhesive thermal pad to stick these on.
Gelid Icy Vision for AMD 6900 on the main line of VRMs. Note that "Version 1", the straight version is needed, not the Z shaped "Version 2".

The Gelid VRM heatsink works really well, but needs to be slightly modified to fit. First off, the screw holes are slightly too far apart on the R9 290 for the heatsink. This is easily fixed by lengthening the screw channel on the heatsink with a drill by approx 1mm on each side. A very small file would work also.

Second, on the bottom of the heatsink, on the outer edges where the screws go, it is 1-2mm thicker than where the thermal pad goes. This is meant to act as a standoff on the 6900 series. However, on the R9 290, the VRMs are shorter and thus don't need this standoff. Installing the heatsink without removing this standoff will result in the cooler not actually touching the VRMs. I used a fine grinding wheel, but sand paper, a file, or a rasp would work just as well. Once the bottom was completely flush, I installed the heatsink as per the supplied instructions. Using the thermal pad that came with it, my VRMs idle at 27°c and don't go over 60°c while gaming with 21°c ambient.

The fan NZXT supplied with the G10 was far too loud for my taste, so I used instead a 92mm 22CFM/9.4dBA Scythe S-Flex A that I had laying around. It seems with a proper heatsink, VRM cooling is no issue even with a fan as weak as the one I have on it.

I don't know what batch I ended up being part of, but I had no problem with screw length using a Corsair H90. I ordered on 12/27/13 and received mine on 2/25/14
Edited by groundzero9 - 3/2/14 at 2:41pm
post #1348 of 1588
EDIT: forgot to comment that you got either batch 2 or 3 and idk if 2 and 3 are different but 1 and 2 are, if you have nuts that hold the screws to the nzxt back plate and your spacers are practically flat with a weird cut to them rather than just rubber spacers, then your very lucky not to have the first batch, otherwise youll have white plastic spacer but considering yours fit just as is theres no way you got the 1st batch. My guess is you got batch 3 which is batch 2 (the nuts to hold the screws in place so its not a nightmare to install the whole thing,but im guessing longer screws ive been reading ppl claiming to have purchased/asked for or ordered longer screws with success

My original reply:
Nice sounding setup im gonna go see if theres anything on there for a gtx 780 ti, can anyone recommend anything to get so i can experiment with setups using the g10 and this card? I had no clue u coud get the acx plate seperate or i mighta of at laeast tried to see if my busted 780ti could get repaired via RMA, its just 3 resistors around the gpu that have slid around and almost desoldereed, while solder built up on the wall of the gpu and the gpu itself got a tiny bit of discoloration. I believer the only seerious damage is that one resistor is fried but other than that it should still work so i woulda sent it in but everyone on a forum told me not to and so i saved for a new 780 so i could hack the acx plate to my liiking and send any RMA i need to send with the 1 fresh acx plate tongue.gif

oohh welll, but yeah if u guys have any quesitons or want me to try anything lemme know ill be more than happy to have some fun


Only testing so far was my bootleg first attempt 780 ti g10 with a kraken x40 bottom intake on a switch 810 took an hour and a half to cap out around 53C but kept staying round 52C, as soon as i used the acx factory super clocked i just got and will be making a video with in a moment, it hit 65C in under 15 min and stayed around there, this was at night in a cold room. Both tests were using furmark 1.10.2 @ 7680x4320 on a 1080p monitor non full screen with 8x MSAA using the burn in option. My fans are controlled by a combo of my gpu, kraken, x40, a pwm controller with sata power to alllow up to 8 or 10 fans under the control of one port on the mobo or another controller or... etc, Using my switch 810 i have 2 kraken x40s mounted on the bottom with 4 bitfenix pros for push pull as an air intake for the case, followed immediately by 2 140mm cougar led fans exhaust that air out the front with the help of the only hard drive rack installed (modular HDD racks) that had a 140mm phanteks SP blue LED fan, only thing in the hdd rack was a single 3.5 to 2.25 ssd adapter modded to fit 2 ssds in a size smaller than any hdd. i then have all the top fan mounts filled with 3 140mm phanteks as intakes since 2 are attached to my h110 cpu cooler with another 2 phanteks for push pull (all as an intake,. Then theres a lian li air duct that mounts 120mm fans so i have 120mount style 140mm prolimatech sleek 14 (15mm thick) with optional static flow adapter installed for better directional air flow and thats mounted right under the intake cpu rad setup exhausting the air righout the normal rear 120/140mm exhaust. The hottest surface you can touch find that your fingers can physically touch which is like everything sept between processors and heatsinks is my asus xonar phoebus sound care believe it or not. Originally i had a 120mm jetfo coooler master super high cfm fan, well it was super high when i had it as an exhaust on a 3 to 4 hdd rack for the in the 5.25 drive bay assisted by the air duct as an intake pushing the cpu rads air out the front with a read intake and the bottom intake and the 2 140 front exhausts.


But i like not worrying about the intakes vs exhausts by just having the hot air move out the case as fast a possible by the path of least resistance setups i created with the airduct is exhausting cpu ifan intake ari air out the aback andthe front fans exhausting the bottommouted gpu rads

-So the kraken atm controls the 4 push pull bit fenix fans 3 proiles i can choose from, testing was done with set to max but the bit fenix fas are so quiet as is theyre being drowned out by the cpu phanteks fans which run off asus ai suite II's fxpert which was set to the silent fan cnurve

-EVGA precision X is cotrolling the nzxt G10 an on auto.

-The front exhaust cougars are so quiet i have them controlled by an arctic f8 pro through a y cable to a pmw cable

-The airduct fans were interrupted by a rheosmart pci fan controller which allows you to manually control multiple fans by using spliters.
-Soon iuper late for me cuz of an all-nighter, lots of work to do so my grammar and ability to keep from being very rredundant in my explenations went right out the window in this post.

I'll be more tidy with any future responses to this thread till im done recording my g10 installlation with the modded acx plate custom pads, custom cut back plate and modded g10 back plate im about to do tongue.gif anyone care to see the raw unedited footage of the install on my youtube when im done? Otherws ill hold off so i can edit it when im not so tired.
Edited by TheMadHatta - 3/2/14 at 6:29pm
post #1349 of 1588
Whoa double post my bad
Edited by TheMadHatta - 3/2/14 at 6:10pm
post #1350 of 1588
Quote:
Originally Posted by Face2Face View Post


I have taken my Lightning up to 1529Mhz with this bracket without the GPU reactor installed... It's marketing .... pretty much...

Did you not install the rubber grommets on yours? I had to leave mine out due to the screws being too short.. Deadpool sent me some longer screws, but I haven't put them on yet.

Here is a video I made. I guess I got a rare black one? biggrin.gif

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oU6Kd2VwYag

not sure if this makes a difference but i wanted to install the kraken g10 on the 770 lightning. does anyone happen to know if the pcb mounts are the same or close enough that it would wok
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