Originally Posted by v3n0m90
Has anyone used a g10 on a 280x here?
I'm curious if there are any issues or anything extra I might need (GPU shims). This is when NZXT decides to straighten out all of the messed up orders -_-
Friend of mine uses one on his, no shims needed unless he has a 290x its the r9 280x thats super popular and was like beast beast beast mode for a while till nvidia started upping their game right?
anyways hes has the same issue a lot of us have with the screws being too short, he rmoved the rubber grommets/spacers like i do with my 780 ti's and then he has enough room for what sounded like 900 to 1200 degrees worth of rotation per screw head, but i wouldnt recommend 12000 or anything past that i use heatsinks on a heatspreader or unisink as ppl are saying, i just call it my acx base plate, he used thermal tape to apply heatsinks to his VRAM and he added a line of heatsink(s) attached to the pcb itself again with thermal tape directly next to the vrm.
He was having big issues with the VRAM and VRM being way way too hot. I am actually in the process of testing temps with my 780 ti acx cooler vs 780 ti with acx heat spreader plate and heatsinks on top with stock thermal pads on vram, vs my 2nd./3rd attamept at another full installation that will be again using a unisink/acx plate but with 5w phobya thermal adhesive pads. gonna check temps like that then add heatsinks also with the same pads because i hear of VGAs running thermal tape and pads with less than 2W/ek or w/e the forumla is for thermal conductivity, And i know the best heatsinks for those of us using unisinks atm imo are the enzotech bcc9 copper sinks (bmr-c1l) the short ones not the long ones cuz ull be wasting your money like ive seen ppl do a lot. On the box they rate their tape at 3W so thats why im gonna be using my phobya 5w on them after i test the acx cooler plate by itself.
So yeah you must get heatsinks, ive seen ppl get away with the cheap aluminum fin and even annodized blue honeycomb heatsinks on 280x cards and they claim no problems and super cheap to get, they used the stock thermal tape, i would highly recommend opting for the enzotechs or any copper heatsinks at the very least and using phobya's 7w thermal adhesive pads to apply the sinks directly to your vram, then id recommend the taller versions of the enzotechs for some areas, and then of course youll need something to line the VRM with on the PCB (this is another must) use the pre-applied thermal tape or get your own like i recommend. Keep in mind the 280x cards and the 780 and 780 ti cards so far that i know of can have up to 9mm clearance across the whole g10 plate, but its a close fit, so most ppl stick with under 5 or 6mm so you usally see the aluminum ones there since the VRM in every case ive heard of is under the g10 plate near the fan.
Also ive heard talk about using thermal tape/pads along with a backplate for better cooling, i only use/like the back plate for rigidity i dont want any card warp whatsoever, and since the plates i use came with thermal tape for the back of the gpu i believe it helps there but not worth using elsewhere on the back.For those looking for options in terms of what you have to have and might wanna get for your possible g10...
Bottom of the barrel aftermarket thermal adhesive pads from what ive read, but its what im installing unless i coulda got the 7w thermal conductive ver instead of this 5w stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Pad-Ultra-5mm-120x20mm/dp/B004230RPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393774621&sr=8-1&keywords=phobya+thermal+pad
(note id recommend 1.5mm pads to for any use other than the GPU, some ppl claim stock pads being 1 or even .5mm i call bull, and some ppl think the only stuff worth getting is 3mm thick so see the following link)
The good TIM pads imo but am told is low end, the 7w phobya pads, this is the site u wanna discover pads on:
The most amazing thermal pads i wish i could afford, perfect for everything, 17W/mk thermal confuctivity!!! (expensive):
The most popular top end heatsinks (they dont fit under the g10 plate):
My favorite(currently only ones i use) top end heatsinks, the literal shorter version of the heatsink listed above:
Super low profile copper heatsinks id highly recommend getting over anything aluminum:
Everyone do yourself a favor and read about replacing thermal pads and tapes, theres more to it than you think and for proper results you wanna do it right once you superate the 2 surfaces pressuring the pads u gotta replace it. When you gotta replace the stuff you gotta cleean it just like you would thermal paste/compound. Be very carefu not to get any oil from your skin on the pads components or heat spreaders/uniplates.
My two favorite fans for the g10... stock fans just never cut it...
Arcttic f9 pro PST (allows for another pwm or 3 pin fan to sync its relative speed aka be controlled by the f9 pro) Best overall aftermarket fan imo especially if you get a fan controller adapter like myself to allow your 780 ti to have evga precion control your gpu fan and both 120 or 140 rads in push pull if you use a splitter to plug those fans into the f9 pro...
Supposedly way better but you have you have to break it in, and it does deliver the best cfm to dba or air fow to sound ratio of almost any fan out there, but since its a lil bulky and literally the same as the arctic f9 before beaking it in only its not a pwm fan. Either way an amazing fan worth checking out, silenx effizio also comes in blue
and their best version is in white....
74cfm at 15 dba
As for rad fans hopefully your going the 140mm router in which case you can use phanteks or bitfenix pros, theyre all great fans, super quiet great air flow and plenty of static pressure, the phanteks SP14LED is awesome tho but has some noise to it compared to the cougar led and bit fenix led fans. Cougars are the best for silence, bit fenix wins the middle, if you dont mind noise weight or some sound phanteks got the best non pwm fan with leds. And finally theres the crazy prolimatech sleek 14 "15mm thick" fans with crazy cfm for like 16 dba and you can pair them with a static flow and directional clamp on extra they sell for it, ive got two with the extra parts in my build atm with a lian li air duct and love em
http://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-Static-Booster-14-Black/dp/B00HRJ550W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393776931&sr=8-1&keywords=prolimatech+sleek+14Now a few silly things you will want. I mean now for the real business
An eraser to clean ur VRAM or is it VRMs to get rid of the grease from old pads grease soaked into the plastic. (only if your replacing your pads, you can reuse pads i am perfectly fine but im only getting air cooler temps) Both nvidia and some pad company mention once they are uncompressed after being put into a setup you cant just tighten up the screws/plate/VGA again and expect the same numbers.
Dont forget a closed loop water cooler for your g10 and dont get an arctic hybrid cooler
Lots of surface (at least thats who i use) wet and dry non alcoholic wet and lint free dy cloth kits (thats just me)
Cleaning wipes with only isopropyl in it. (me again, it doesnt do the real job not enough alcohol.
Now i like using arcticleans 2 piece kit the surface remover and purifier it just like using 99% ispropyl only it doesnt dry as fast, you need dry lint free cloths for one of the bottles for each use
the alternative everyone seems to use is 99% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and coffee filters since they are lint free...
And lets forget about TIM for that heatsink whether u go kraken or corsair doesnt matter, i find corsair easier to mount, harder to orient in a case, whereas the reverse is true for krakens in my experience.I am not advertising sites to purchase from i just find it easier to use the sites i found them on than go google the company to navigate their site in the hopes of finding what i wanna link
.... wow that was long, time to get back to that 780 ti just gotta dissassemble and clean the vrm and vram now then assemble and im done =) Super glued my nzxt screws to the braket to replicate what the 2nd batch does with the screw on bolts, because i just cant stand trying to assemble the thing 10 times cuz the screws wont line up.Edited by TheMadHatta - 3/2/14 at 8:23am