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[Build Log] Muzzle Flash II: The Sniper - Page 8  

post #71 of 194
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

That scratch. frown.gif Good job though Knucklehead.

Thank you.

The funny part is, you can't really even see it unless you are looking for it. It's just that the DSLR camera shows every little imperfection. Still going to fix it ... because I know it's there. biggrin.gif
post #72 of 194
Thread Starter 
Time to play with the LEDs. First up, time to pull out the stock ones that come with the Phantek case. They look good, but they just don't go with this build.



Here is a shot with my LED work lights on over my desk.




Here they are with the lights off.


While they aren't a perfect match to the orange of my Ducky Shine 3 keyboard, I don't really have a lot of options in 5mm wide LEDs. These will just be a little bit brighter "flash" for Muzzle Flash II. wink.gif
post #73 of 194
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post #74 of 194
I wish there was an auto sub option. So anything thread you make it will automatically give me updates!
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post #75 of 194
Thread Starter 
No major updates to the build, I've been under the weather for the past 2 days.

I did manage to repaint the RX240 so the scratch is gone. You'd never notice it, but as I said, I'd know it was there. biggrin.gif

Also, apparently my bank didn't like dealing with Aquacomputer directly from Germany, so my "High Flow" G1/4" sensor, Aquaero 6 XT, 2 2-pin and 1 3-pin connector order finally had to be cancelled. Luckily Performance PCs is now carrying all that and with the exception of the 1 3-pin connector, it's all in stock (and to be honest, I'm not sure what I'd use it for anyway) . So I placed my order there this morning and it's being processed right now. Hopefully it should be here Monday.

I guess I will focus on taking measurements of the case and get some foam core board and make several templates that I can then send to @TLHarrell so he can make the custom insert for the component area of the case. I'll if I get my GTX 780 back from EVGA (there was a slight problem with one of the fans on the ACX cooler that I had them repair), I'll slap a water block on it and see if I can come up with a better location for the Aquacomputer reservoir. Otherwise, I'll be doing "planning".


(Edit)

Just got back from lunch and I had a package from Phantek. The replacement side panel and plexi LED cover that they shipped me to replace the one damage in shipping arrived. It was packaged VERY WELL, and got here very quickly. I must say, their customer support sure was responsive. Nice to see that. thumb.gif
post #76 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

On goes the first coat of orange to the radiators. biggrin.gif




Thanks for cup tip on painting the radiators that will come in handy for me this weekend. Love the orange!

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post #77 of 194
Thread Starter 
After doing some thinking, I descided to take up another of my 5.25" bays with a system that will allow me to swap in and out different 2.5" SSDs so I can have truly independent operating systems.

ToughArmor MB991SK-B 2.5” SATA Mobile Rack for 3.5" Device Bay
EZ Slide Mini Tray MB991TRAY-B Drive Tray for ToughArmor MB991, MB994 Series
SilverStone FP55B Aluminum Front Panel 3.5" to a 5.25" Bay Converter

This will allow me to pop in my 256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD to boot to Windows 7 64-bit, then swap out to my 120GB Intel SSD to boot to Linux. This way I can be assured of a totally separate OS with no possibility of data corruption with dual booting. The 1TB hard drive will be common to both OS's.

Yeah, I could have gone with a cheaper 5.25" to 3.5" adapter, but that Silverstone is all aluminum and should blend in nicely with the Phantek case. biggrin.gif

post #78 of 194
Thread Starter 
Time to whip out the soldering station and remove the stock blue case LEDs and customize them a bit.

The hardest part is CAREFULLY removing the smoked plexi lens so as to not break off any tabs. Then it is just a simple matter of removing the heatshrink on the wires, desoldering them from the blue LED strip, soldering them to the new LED strip, putting a piece of heat shrink back on it to make it nice and neat, then placing the new LED strip back into the channel and replacing the lens cover again.



Here is the uncovered top part of the case with the new Amber LED strip in place.




Another shot of the exposed LEDs powered up.




With the smoked plexi lens back in place, it looks pretty nice, and the smoked lens gives is a softer look that I think works well with these Amber lights.


Oh, and before I forget to mention, be sure to tape the LED strip down on the side OPPOSITE the white plastic insert. This will help make the LED slightly brighter, but more importantly, it will hide the "dashes" that you see in the above photo.




Photo of the replaced LED with the smoked plexi lens on AND tape to hold the LEDs down on one side.
post #79 of 194
Thread Starter 
Now that I have the 2 LED strips done (I'm still waiting on the 2 Amber LEDs so I can mod the power swtich), I figured I'd start sleeving the cables from the top panel that will connect to the motherboard.




First thing will be to wrap the black wires with orange electrical tape, so that the black will not show through the orange weave. This will give it a much more "orangy" look.




Now that one set of wires has been wrapped, time to slide the MDPC sleeve onto it and make it nice looking.
post #80 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

Time to whip out the soldering station and remove the stock blue case LEDs and customize them a bit.

The hardest part is CAREFULLY removing the smoked plexi lens so as to not break off any tabs. Then it is just a simple matter of removing the heatshrink on the wires, desoldering them from the blue LED strip, soldering them to the new LED strip, putting a piece of heat shrink back on it to make it nice and neat, then placing the new LED strip back into the channel and replacing the lens cover again.



Here is the uncovered top part of the case with the new Amber LED strip in place.

Warning: Snip (Click to show)


Another shot of the exposed LEDs powered up.




With the smoked plexi lens back in place, it looks pretty nice, and the smoked lens gives is a softer look that I think works well with these Amber lights.


Oh, and before I forget to mention, be sure to tape the LED strip down on the side OPPOSITE the white plastic insert. This will help make the LED slightly brighter, but more importantly, it will hide the "dashes" that you see in the above photo.



Photo of the replaced LED with the smoked plexi lens on AND tape to hold the LEDs down on one side.

That looks really good. Makes me want to do mine with white now...
 
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