Originally Posted by szeged
Quick pic of how i currently plan to route the acrylic leaving out the motherboard from the loop for now, since i dont know how their layout is, EK needs to hurry and leak some photos of it lol , will most likely change a lot throughout the course of the build as i cant stick with one thing for more than 5 seconds -
Blocks/radiators in red, tube routing in blue.
I saw your post about layout in the water cool club and had some fun messing with your layout. It's one of my favourite things to do actually LOL It's always fun to play around with other peoples parts and imagine having the budget to make it your own
I clicked on your build log hoping that you hadn't gotten to the actually building stage, I have a few suggestions that you may want to take under consideration that I hope you will like!
I came up with two seperate layouts, first layout was without Mother board blocks, and the second layout was with mother board blocks. Because, really, what kind of monster would buy a board like this and NOT put mobo blocks on it. HURRY UP EK!!!!
Inlet on all blocks, green circle
Outplet on all blocks, black circle
Water is Blue in first layout, Orange in second layout for visability
Drain/Fill is Yellow, I will explain that after you take a look at what I have
CPU block is rotated vertically, btw
GPU blocks are in serial, I can adjust for parallel if you would prefer, but it makes no appreciable differenceFirst Layout - No MOBO Blocks You monster you!!!
Route: Pump Outlet -> Basement Rad, bottom port -> Lower GPU, left bottom port -> Upper GPU, right bottom port -> Left Ram, bottom block -> CPU, upper port -> Right Ram, bottom port -> Roof Rad, bottom port -> Front Rad, most convenient top port -> Res, convenient top portSecond Layout - MOBO Blocks *elevator music* *DING!* *sexxxy female voice* "...Penthouse..."
Route: Pump outlet -> Basement Rad, bottom port -> Lower GPU, right bottom port -> Upper GPU, left lower port -> Lower MOBO, left port -> CPU, lower port -> Right Ram, lower port -> Upper MOBO, right port -> Left Ram, upper port -> Roof Rad, lower port -> Front Rad, convenient top port -> Res, convenient top portLayout Theory
The Design theory here is centered around the idea of not having to force you, the user, to tilt or shake your case excessively when trying to fill/drain/bleed. Hopefully these designs will allow you to leave your case in its natural seating position while you fiddle with the water loop. Everything has being chosen specifically, even rad/block port selection was purposefully designed as such.
I am going to start with GPUs. I did not design this with a bridge in mind, bridges force you into specific layouts and don't come in many options. I think you should go without, acrylic tube runs tend to look cleaner without the chunkiness. But that's just my opinion and it is possible to use bridges in these two layouts
Rads: I have placed the Rads inlets and outlets specifically to facilitate bleeding and filling and to present the least amount of resistance when it comes to bleeding air bubbles. By entering horizontal rads from the bottom, you naturally push bubbles out with the water flow, and by entering vertical rads from the top, you help bubbles find their way out of the rad by allowing them to rise to the top.
Drain Ports - Rads/Res: Each rad has a drain, thank god this is becoming standard. Life gets easier with every generation of progress LOL The general idea is that if you fill the loop from the bottom, and allow air to escape out the top, you can get most of the air bubbles out of your loop with the first fill. the reverse is also true, if you drain your build from the bottom and allow air to enter the loop from the top you will generally have an easier time.
Let me explain in a little more detail in regards to your loop specifically.
For this situation, in your loop, I am going to make some suggestions in terms of the Resevoir ports and Rad drain ports.
First off, the Res, I would suggest, like usual, installing the line from the front rad to the res with a dip tube. (dip tube being the silver tube within the res visible in this picture http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/16935/ex-res-418_2.jpg/ex-res-418/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM150AC-CL.html
which allows the inlet water to sit below the water level in the res so that you dont get any splashing sounds from your res). and then installing an acrylic line from a spare port on the top of the res to top panel of your case. ( to one of these, a bulk head pass through fill port in whatever flavour you'd like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15834/ex-tub-1275/Enzotech_FNP_G14_Bulkhead_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Silver.html
Secondly, your Radiator's drain ports, pipe each one seperately with a shut off and cap in a flavour of norprene. which is the only flexible tubing with absolutely no plastisizer. Flexible tubing allows you to tuck it away easily inside your case while allowing you to access it quickly as well. The lower Rad drains can be piped together so that you only have to play with one tube, BUT, and this is a huge BUT
, you will need to isolate the drains from one another or you will have major problems while the loop is running. you could pipe them like this...
...which will allow you to isolate both rads from one another during run time, but also allow you to open both ports together while draining/filling. No one will see this tubing but you, so lets make it easy on ourselves
you can also simply cap the shut offs and keep the tubing in storage till you need to do any maintenance on your system if you don't want anything extra in your case. In which case you can use whatever tubing you want since it wont have water in it for an appreciable amount of time.
Back to the theory. If you have piped the res and drains like I suggested, then you would follow this procedure to fill...
Fill: Close the fill port from the res so that it sealed, extend your drain line from the top rad and hold it so that it sits a foot or so above the top of the case. Extend the drain line from the bottom Rads, and hold this tube with the other drain tube above the case. Slowly pour your fluid into the drain tube for the lower rads. As you pour fluid into the lower drain line you will hear air escaping from the upper drain line. You will be able to watch the water level rise evenly throughout your loop, your res and blocks should fill up fairly evenly. Watch the water line, you are going to have to make an educated guess as to when the upper rad is full, then stop filling. Now close the shut offs for all of your drain tubes and lets check to make sure we don't have too much water in the loop. start your pump and leave it running as long as water remains in your res. If you res' drain port line is full of water while the system is running and only a bit of air is making its way to the res, stop the pump, open the upper rad drain line to allow air in and drain a bit of water out of the lower rad drain line. If the water in the res is below the dip tube and the res' drain line is free of water, open the fill port attached to the res, with the other drain ports closed off, and add fluids until the level is acceptable to you. Let the pump run and if the water level is in an acceptable place for you, then tuck away your drain lines or cap them as you prefer. Leak test, Air bleeding, starts now
Bleeding: With the pump running, leave the res drain port open while the system is running, with all drain shut offs closed. Air will slowly accumulate in the res, which you can top up bit by bit until the water level is where you want it to be.
Drain: Extend your drain line from the top rad and hold it so that it is above the level of the top of your case. extend the drain lines from the bottom rads into whatever you are draining your loop into, bucket, sink, whatever you'd like. Open your shut offs and open the drain port on your res and watch your system drain completely
TL DR: I apologize for the novel, I had the day off of work and didn't feel like doing chores
Edit: left out gpu info before layoutsEdited by NimbleJack - 12/12/13 at 9:28am