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[Build Log] Go Into The Water - 5960x/Rve/ddr4 here, waiting on maxwell. - Page 7

post #61 of 720
I wanna downsize actually. Might sell my Monsta and stuff everything on a 750D lol
post #62 of 720
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well if you do decide to sell the monsta, i know someone who(me) can give it a good home biggrin.gif lol
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post #63 of 720
Down Size what is the world coming to???
post #64 of 720
Was gonna message you about that, waiting and see if I can contact EK directly. I want my blocks ASAP so I can move on to other stuff.
post #65 of 720
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by seross69 View Post

Down Size what is the world coming to???

my thoughts exactly tongue.gif all these small builds poppin up now frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by LaBestiaHumana View Post

Was gonna message you about that, waiting and see if I can contact EK directly. I want my blocks ASAP so I can move on to other stuff.

sounds good tongue.gif hopefully you can get stuff sorted out with EK, FCPU took care of my blocks fast, its weird theyre taking so long for yours.
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post #66 of 720
Quote:
Originally Posted by szeged View Post

yeah im thinkin ill just grab another couple monstas from FCPU since i gotta make another order from them soon anyways, but the SR1 is basically $39 off and would arrive in a few hours since the dude is in tampa lol, look at me trying to save a few bucks on a build like this tongue.giftongue.gif


Subbed.

Monstas are a bit difficult to work with. Go with ut60 or sr1, and you would be fine. No need to put a rad in the front, as it will creep into the upper chamber, and lower compartment, unless a 360
Personally, I don't like my rads and pumps showing through the window. You can mount the pump with the same housing to the rad in the bottom compartment. This will give you a cleaner look , and you will be able to use all of the mid front bays. And, you can get a taller res. in fact, you will be able to put two 400 ml res on the mid plate (for looks. tongue.gif).
This is gonna be a money pit, if you are just starting out with caselabs, since its fun to build in these cases......... but it will be enjoyable........lol. thumb.gif
Edited by provost - 12/12/13 at 3:10am
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post #67 of 720
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by provost View Post

Subbed.

Monstas are a bit difficult to work with. Go with ut60 or sr1, and you would be fine. No need to put a rad in the front, as it will go into the upper chamber, and lower compartment.
Personally, I don't like my rads and pumps showing through the window. You can mount the pump with the same housing to the rad in the bottom compartment. This will give you a cleaner look , and you will be able to use all of the mid front bays. And, you can get a taller res. you can put two 400 ml res on the mid plate (for looks. tongue.gif).
This is gonna be a money pit, if you are just starting out with caselabs, since its fun to build in these cases......... but it will be enjoyable........lol. thumb.gif

Already got a couple monstas and a ut60 comin in on friday so might as well continue on with them tongue.gif Gonna try to stuff a 480 monsta up front since i have a ton of ap-15s to use that i dont want to go to waste, and i also got a 120mmx480mm front bay rad mount which is $50 i dont want to waste lol. Im considering the 400ml res since the 250ml does look small as all hell in the sth10 lol, thanks for the ideas ill definitely try them out, and ty for the sub, the more the merrier!
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post #68 of 720
Quote:
Originally Posted by szeged View Post

Already got a couple monstas and a ut60 comin in on friday so might as well continue on with them tongue.gif Gonna try to stuff a 480 monsta up front since i have a ton of ap-15s to use that i dont want to go to waste, and i also got a 120mmx480mm front bay rad mount which is $50 i dont want to waste lol. Im considering the 400ml res since the 250ml does look small as all hell in the sth10 lol, thanks for the ideas ill definitely try them out, and ty for the sub, the more the merrier!

You will be wasting some if not quite a few parts, if others experience is any indication. as this build continues and if you are a picky builder. I have so many spare parts, fittings, sleeving, etc. that I can do two more builds. I have fittings coming out the yin yang. tongue.gif
Get a pedestal. thumb.gif
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post #69 of 720
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Yeah i know for sure ill have spare parts lol tongue.gif im just gonna try to reduce it as much as possible lol. i have an entire drawer full of bitspower fittings from other builds that didnt get used, so they will be going into this build im hoping lol. the drawer full is probably worth a good $700 or so in fittings from multiple builds lol.
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post #70 of 720
Subbed!
Quote:
Originally Posted by szeged View Post

Quick pic of how i currently plan to route the acrylic leaving out the motherboard from the loop for now, since i dont know how their layout is, EK needs to hurry and leak some photos of it lol , will most likely change a lot throughout the course of the build as i cant stick with one thing for more than 5 seconds -



Blocks/radiators in red, tube routing in blue.

I saw your post about layout in the water cool club and had some fun messing with your layout. It's one of my favourite things to do actually LOL It's always fun to play around with other peoples parts and imagine having the budget to make it your own wink.gif

I clicked on your build log hoping that you hadn't gotten to the actually building stage, I have a few suggestions that you may want to take under consideration that I hope you will like! biggrin.gif

I came up with two seperate layouts, first layout was without Mother board blocks, and the second layout was with mother board blocks. Because, really, what kind of monster would buy a board like this and NOT put mobo blocks on it. HURRY UP EK!!!! thumb.gif

Inlet on all blocks, green circle
Outplet on all blocks, black circle
Water is Blue in first layout, Orange in second layout for visability
Drain/Fill is Yellow, I will explain that after you take a look at what I have
CPU block is rotated vertically, btw
GPU blocks are in serial, I can adjust for parallel if you would prefer, but it makes no appreciable difference

First Layout - No MOBO Blocks You monster you!!!



Route: Pump Outlet -> Basement Rad, bottom port -> Lower GPU, left bottom port -> Upper GPU, right bottom port -> Left Ram, bottom block -> CPU, upper port -> Right Ram, bottom port -> Roof Rad, bottom port -> Front Rad, most convenient top port -> Res, convenient top port


Second Layout - MOBO Blocks *elevator music* *DING!* *sexxxy female voice* "...Penthouse..."



Route: Pump outlet -> Basement Rad, bottom port -> Lower GPU, right bottom port -> Upper GPU, left lower port -> Lower MOBO, left port -> CPU, lower port -> Right Ram, lower port -> Upper MOBO, right port -> Left Ram, upper port -> Roof Rad, lower port -> Front Rad, convenient top port -> Res, convenient top port


Layout Theory

The Design theory here is centered around the idea of not having to force you, the user, to tilt or shake your case excessively when trying to fill/drain/bleed. Hopefully these designs will allow you to leave your case in its natural seating position while you fiddle with the water loop. Everything has being chosen specifically, even rad/block port selection was purposefully designed as such.

I am going to start with GPUs. I did not design this with a bridge in mind, bridges force you into specific layouts and don't come in many options. I think you should go without, acrylic tube runs tend to look cleaner without the chunkiness. But that's just my opinion and it is possible to use bridges in these two layouts smile.gif

Rads: I have placed the Rads inlets and outlets specifically to facilitate bleeding and filling and to present the least amount of resistance when it comes to bleeding air bubbles. By entering horizontal rads from the bottom, you naturally push bubbles out with the water flow, and by entering vertical rads from the top, you help bubbles find their way out of the rad by allowing them to rise to the top.

Drain Ports - Rads/Res: Each rad has a drain, thank god this is becoming standard. Life gets easier with every generation of progress LOL The general idea is that if you fill the loop from the bottom, and allow air to escape out the top, you can get most of the air bubbles out of your loop with the first fill. the reverse is also true, if you drain your build from the bottom and allow air to enter the loop from the top you will generally have an easier time.

Let me explain in a little more detail in regards to your loop specifically.

For this situation, in your loop, I am going to make some suggestions in terms of the Resevoir ports and Rad drain ports.
First off, the Res, I would suggest, like usual, installing the line from the front rad to the res with a dip tube. (dip tube being the silver tube within the res visible in this picture http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/16935/ex-res-418_2.jpg/ex-res-418/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_-_Clear_BP-WTZM150AC-CL.html which allows the inlet water to sit below the water level in the res so that you dont get any splashing sounds from your res). and then installing an acrylic line from a spare port on the top of the res to top panel of your case. ( to one of these, a bulk head pass through fill port in whatever flavour you'd like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15834/ex-tub-1275/Enzotech_FNP_G14_Bulkhead_Pass-Through_Fitting_Fillport_-_Silver.html )
Secondly, your Radiator's drain ports, pipe each one seperately with a shut off and cap in a flavour of norprene. which is the only flexible tubing with absolutely no plastisizer. Flexible tubing allows you to tuck it away easily inside your case while allowing you to access it quickly as well. The lower Rad drains can be piped together so that you only have to play with one tube, BUT, and this is a huge BUT, you will need to isolate the drains from one another or you will have major problems while the loop is running. you could pipe them like this...

...which will allow you to isolate both rads from one another during run time, but also allow you to open both ports together while draining/filling. No one will see this tubing but you, so lets make it easy on ourselves thumb.gif you can also simply cap the shut offs and keep the tubing in storage till you need to do any maintenance on your system if you don't want anything extra in your case. In which case you can use whatever tubing you want since it wont have water in it for an appreciable amount of time.

Back to the theory. If you have piped the res and drains like I suggested, then you would follow this procedure to fill...

Fill: Close the fill port from the res so that it sealed, extend your drain line from the top rad and hold it so that it sits a foot or so above the top of the case. Extend the drain line from the bottom Rads, and hold this tube with the other drain tube above the case. Slowly pour your fluid into the drain tube for the lower rads. As you pour fluid into the lower drain line you will hear air escaping from the upper drain line. You will be able to watch the water level rise evenly throughout your loop, your res and blocks should fill up fairly evenly. Watch the water line, you are going to have to make an educated guess as to when the upper rad is full, then stop filling. Now close the shut offs for all of your drain tubes and lets check to make sure we don't have too much water in the loop. start your pump and leave it running as long as water remains in your res. If you res' drain port line is full of water while the system is running and only a bit of air is making its way to the res, stop the pump, open the upper rad drain line to allow air in and drain a bit of water out of the lower rad drain line. If the water in the res is below the dip tube and the res' drain line is free of water, open the fill port attached to the res, with the other drain ports closed off, and add fluids until the level is acceptable to you. Let the pump run and if the water level is in an acceptable place for you, then tuck away your drain lines or cap them as you prefer. Leak test, Air bleeding, starts now biggrin.gif

Bleeding: With the pump running, leave the res drain port open while the system is running, with all drain shut offs closed. Air will slowly accumulate in the res, which you can top up bit by bit until the water level is where you want it to be.

Drain: Extend your drain line from the top rad and hold it so that it is above the level of the top of your case. extend the drain lines from the bottom rads into whatever you are draining your loop into, bucket, sink, whatever you'd like. Open your shut offs and open the drain port on your res and watch your system drain completely tongue.gif

TL DR: I apologize for the novel, I had the day off of work and didn't feel like doing chores rolleyes.gif

Edit: left out gpu info before layouts
Edited by NimbleJack - 12/12/13 at 9:28am
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