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post #51 of 117
First off Subbed! Looks like an awesome build.

Sorry to hear you were having so many issues. But i had a question about your custom length cables, how long did you end up getting them? and how much slack is there, I am thinking about doing the same thing.

After seeing that yours weren't sleeved i looked on that site a bit more and found this. And they state "(We also build high quality custom modular cables for other PSU brands, please feel free to contact us for details)" on most of these pages, so i think you can also get the cables made with sleeving.

Again sorry for your troubles, but your build is coming out looking awesome!
post #52 of 117
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Sorry to hear about your problems, but I'm confused, I can't find where it says that. headscratch.gif

Well you're right. The wording is more ambiguous than I remembered. On the product page here, it states that "This product features two recessed G1/4 threaded ports with pre-installed extenders to allow any G1/4 threaded fitting to be used."

Quote:
Originally Posted by drifterdave View Post

First off Subbed! Looks like an awesome build.

Sorry to hear you were having so many issues. But i had a question about your custom length cables, how long did you end up getting them? and how much slack is there, I am thinking about doing the same thing.

After seeing that yours weren't sleeved i looked on that site a bit more and found this. And they state "(We also build high quality custom modular cables for other PSU brands, please feel free to contact us for details)" on most of these pages, so i think you can also get the cables made with sleeving.

Again sorry for your troubles, but your build is coming out looking awesome!

Yeah, it appears that I should have explicitly stated that I wanted their "high density (HD)" sleeves, since that seems to be their in-house name for it. It's all just very hard to do, since you order by emailing them. There's no form, so there's no way to know if they're interpreting your order correctly. There's a lot of trust involved. I did mention in the email "white/gray sleeving", but I should have been super explicit.

As for lengths, I got the following:

24-pin, 9 inches; 8-pin CPU power, 9 inches; Dual 6+2-pin PCIe, 9.5 inches; 1 SATA power, 10 inches; Molex, 3 connectors, 10 inches.

Although, for the SATA power, I would get something like 14-15 inches instead of 10. I had to route the SATA power in front of my GPU, whereas I'd prefer they go behind the GPU to the SSD on the bottom. Everything else I really like. And really, all these cables for $99 shipped from China is a bargain (ModDIY payed over $30 for shipping, I saw the label on the box). I originally planned on doing custom cables myself, but the supplies alone (I would have had to purchase multiple tools to do the job properly) were more than that! And I would have had to spend hours upon hours sleeving. I almost feel bad for paying so little, because I know someone worked many hours on these cables.
Edited by Heuristic - 1/8/14 at 7:17am
post #53 of 117
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutfij View Post

Yeah! You can skip the MDPC crimper altogether but snag the molex pin remover tool and a couple of sleeves and pre-cut heatshrink smile.gif with the custom length wires you've actually halved your effort and waiting time.

As far as the fittings are concerned; I personally love the look of perfect seals. Bitspower have a similar version but named fatboy/stuby's or even their standard fittings and their fittings are actually the same as a perfect seal fitting. You can also check out koolertek.com for the original dangerden versions and there's also Phobya's vintage black editions.

An example of perfect seals: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
all that's needed is cutting the tubing on a leveled base or at a perfect perpendicular cut since you're literally face to face with the tubing edges.

thumb.gif

Those aren't bad! I actually suspect that part of my problem is that I was cutting my tubes with regular scissors. The cuts weren't horrendous, but they weren't perfectly flat, either. I pushed the tubes as far down on the barb of the compression fitting as possible, but still they all weren't perfectly seated and flush with the base of the fitting.

But is it normal to be able to pull a tube out of a compression fitting with moderate force?
post #54 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heuristic View Post

But is it normal to be able to pull a tube out of a compression fitting with moderate force?

I don't think so. It took me a heckuva lot more than moderate force to get my tubes on to the point where I could screw down the compression ring - any chance your rings didn't actually grab the threads on the barb?
    
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post #55 of 117
Heuristic+Bclk - there is a possibility to pull your tube off the barb.
1| A compression fitting is no different to a regular barb fitting as the collar/tubing clamps comes with the fittings in a compression fitting. Compression fittings go one up cos they are aesthetically pleasing instead of a lump (clamp) holding onto the tubing and barb. The compression fittings collar can actually eat through a tubing if you tighten it too much and movement of components while assembling it outside of case and later moving it inside can cause the tubes to move themselves and also induce tearing. Much like how worm drive clamps were the fad but they were horrendous to work with if you weren't experienced.

2| Like barbs, compression fittings come in various sizes, but the latter requires a specific sized ID(Inner diameter) and OD(outer diameter) of tubing since the collar is impossible to slip on a tubing that is larger than the collars inner diameter which would defeat the purpose of the collar altogether but to get to the point I was making, if the tubing is significantly thinner than the outer collar then it doesn't clamp on and can slip off.

3| Smaller diameter tubing can be slipped on to large fittings with the help of warm/hot water. You dip the tubing end in said water and the tubing end becomes soft not entirely soft to collapse but soft enough to slip onto the barb. It can work both ways even after you have a system running. Which brings us to two sub points: a| is your pump circulating the water properly or does it have stagnation points? b| what's the brand on your tubing?

After all that, all that does come to mind is that you aren't tightening "finger" tight or over tightening.

My 2 cents mate!
smile.gif
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post #56 of 117
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutfij View Post

Heuristic+Bclk - there is a possibility to pull your tube off the barb.
1| A compression fitting is no different to a regular barb fitting as the collar/tubing clamps comes with the fittings in a compression fitting. Compression fittings go one up cos they are aesthetically pleasing instead of a lump (clamp) holding onto the tubing and barb. The compression fittings collar can actually eat through a tubing if you tighten it too much and movement of components while assembling it outside of case and later moving it inside can cause the tubes to move themselves and also induce tearing. Much like how worm drive clamps were the fad but they were horrendous to work with if you weren't experienced.

2| Like barbs, compression fittings come in various sizes, but the latter requires a specific sized ID(Inner diameter) and OD(outer diameter) of tubing since the collar is impossible to slip on a tubing that is larger than the collars inner diameter which would defeat the purpose of the collar altogether but to get to the point I was making, if the tubing is significantly thinner than the outer collar then it doesn't clamp on and can slip off.

3| Smaller diameter tubing can be slipped on to large fittings with the help of warm/hot water. You dip the tubing end in said water and the tubing end becomes soft not entirely soft to collapse but soft enough to slip onto the barb. It can work both ways even after you have a system running. Which brings us to two sub points: a| is your pump circulating the water properly or does it have stagnation points? b| what's the brand on your tubing?

After all that, all that does come to mind is that you aren't tightening "finger" tight or over tightening.

My 2 cents mate!
smile.gif

Wow, thanks for all that!

To answer some of your questions; my tubing is PrimoFlex Advanced LRT, 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD. My compression fittings from EK are supposedly designed for that exact tubing size, so I know it's not a mistake on my part. And I am tightening them as far as they will go with my fingers, not any tools. There is still a small gap between the collar and the base of the fitting, as there should be I think. And yes, my pump is circulating fine; I've got it PWM managed by Speedfan. It's normally running at around 20%, which is reading about 1800 RPM.

Even still, the tubes will slip out of the compression fittings with some sideways force. I may make a video showing this, so you can maybe see if I'm doing anything wrong. Or maybe compression fittings just aren't as snug and foolproof as I imagined they would be.
post #57 of 117
Primochill tubing manufacturing quality seems not so high with regards exact tubing size. Sometimes the walls are a little bit thinner or thicker in places.

Another thing to make sure about is that when you cut the end of the tube, the cut must be clean and exactly flush to the flange/base of the barb. Otherwise the tubing can indeed come out easier with some sideways force, as you discovered. The problem is with short tubing that immediately bends. It's almost impossible to know beforehand how much the bend is pulling on one side of the tube. In this case it can be good to either make the tubing a bit longer so there is not so much lateral force at the barb. Looking at your picture, I would definitely do something about the tube coming out of the lower port on your 120 rad. I would worry it will pop out. Either use a 90 degree fitting there, or make the tube longer so the bend isn't pulling the tube off the barb.

Hope this helps! smile.gif
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post #58 of 117
^ + 1. The pic I posted above is of my AMS project and it uses the Primochill LRT(not the advanced version) and its fine. However I've been reading reports of the irregularities int eh tubing dimensions.
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post #59 of 117
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Looking at your picture, I would definitely do something about the tube coming out of the lower port on your 120 rad. I would worry it will pop out. Either use a 90 degree fitting there, or make the tube longer so the bend isn't pulling the tube off the barb.

Yeah, I realize that that's a major problem area. I'm just completely out of fittings, and I really didn't feel like waiting to order an extra 45 or 90 degree fitting. I'll just have to hope that it doesn't pop out at any point in the next year or so. I'll eventually replace all the tubing and compession fittings, but I really don't want to drain my loop again. I've already had to drain it too many times.

I originally tried making that section longer, but it was pulling even worse then.
post #60 of 117
Thread Starter 
Final (for now) pictures, everybody!

moar (Click to show)




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