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VRM heatsink thermal pad thickness - Page 2

post #11 of 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-PREDATOR View Post

@ duckie....good choice..if i may...he must make xtra sure to use a proper non conductive tim..and be carefull.that the heatsink/'s make good contact..otherwise..1 moment happy blazin in surround in bf3(just example)...next...u think its a bomb..but actualy your card cooking itself..
@kevinddd.....
why dont you get both size/ thickness and test this gpu on its own outside of your case first..then inside case..take screenshots off all testing for comparrison..only way to know which is best..test it...
whateva benchmark u use..just do medium to low settings..just to warm gpu up enough safely.to see what happens

I won't be going with the thermal paste route for the VRM so no worries on that. I use the AC thermal adhesive on the heatsinks of the VRAM and other MOSFETs. Well, I do have both sizes of FujiPoly Xr-m. My only problem is how to test which is better if there is no VRM temp sensor. I do have an infrared thermometer but I'm not sure if higher heatsink temp=better because it dissipates heat more? Or lower is better because of common sense?
Quote:
Originally Posted by X-PREDATOR View Post

@ duckie....good choice..if i may...he must make xtra sure to use a proper non conductive tim..and be carefull.that the heatsink/'s make good contact..otherwise..1 moment happy blazin in surround in bf3(just example)...next...u think its a bomb..but actualy your card cooking itself..
@kevinddd.....
why dont you get both size/ thickness and test this gpu on its own outside of your case first..then inside case..take screenshots off all testing for comparrison..only way to know which is best..test it...
whateva benchmark u use..just do medium to low settings..just to warm gpu up enough safely.to see what happens

Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post

There are very very few electrically conductive TIMs though. The only popular one that I know is Coollaboratories metal TIM.

I did try mixing the AC thermal adhesive with a cheap generic thermal paste in a 1:1 ratio and it held those heatsinks well enough.I tried removing them now and it took me only a little bit of force to remove them. Does this imply that I use directly the thermal adhesive without mixing it with another compound? Will this have better results?
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post #12 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

I did try mixing the AC thermal adhesive with a cheap generic thermal paste in a 1:1 ratio and it held those heatsinks well enough.I tried removing them now and it took me only a little bit of force to remove them. Does this imply that I use directly the thermal adhesive without mixing it with another compound? Will this have better results?

Pure thermal adhesive is very strong... it would rip chips out. Definitely mix it.

A trick on removal is freezing the card to make the adhesive brittle.
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post #13 of 42
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post

Pure thermal adhesive is very strong... it would rip chips out. Definitely mix it.

A trick on removal is freezing the card to make the adhesive brittle.

Oh ok. Is there a big difference in thermal conductivity when you mix the thermal adhesive compared to using it pure?

The AC thermal adhesive included with the hybrid cooler is as strong as that Artic Silver two-part epoxy, right?
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post #14 of 42
rather use proper adhesive thermal pads...i wouldnt go bonding heatsinks permanently..in case of rma..
unless youve got lotsa moola lyin around..
how well does that AC hybrid cool without the included heatsinks?
im looking into getting something like this..but my gpu is naked chips..1 low profile ihs on vrm..about 1.5/2mm thick pads...
post #15 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by X-PREDATOR View Post

rather use proper adhesive thermal pads...i wouldnt go bonding heatsinks permanently..in case of rma..
unless youve got lotsa moola lyin around..
how well does that AC hybrid cool without the included heatsinks?
im looking into getting something like this..but my gpu is naked chips..1 low profile ihs on vrm..about 1.5/2mm thick pads...

You mean thermal tape? The problem with most (not all) is that they aren't that strong.
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post #16 of 42
ok...
post #17 of 42
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

I won't be going with the thermal paste route for the VRM so no worries on that. I use the AC thermal adhesive on the heatsinks of the VRAM and other MOSFETs. Well, I do have both sizes of FujiPoly Xr-m. My only problem is how to test which is better if there is no VRM temp sensor. I do have an infrared thermometer but I'm not sure if higher heatsink temp=better because it dissipates heat more? Or lower is better because of common sense?

Bumping this question.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post

Can you just use a threaded rod and some nuts instead for direct mount with some TIM?

Oh and I missed this as well. What do you mean threaded rod and some nuts? Here's a picture of the VRM heatsink of my cards:



Notice that you can't use nut and bolts with those screw holes with standoffs.

Is it better to use 1.5mm-thick thermal pad here or just use a stacked 1mm-thick+0.3mm-thick combo instead? Would a difference of 0.2mm even matter? Here are pics of 1mm-thick and 1.5mm-thick application for your reference:

A.) 1mm-thick



B.) 1.5mm-thick (1mm+0.5mm)



Is the imprint on letter B too much that would require me to use the 1mm-thick+0.3mm-thich solution because as far as I'm concerned letter A has insufficient contact?
Edited by kevindd992002 - 12/18/13 at 1:31am
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post #18 of 42
[/quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

How much temp difference would using a 1mm thermal pad compared to a 1.5mm thermal pad have for aluminum VRM heatsinks? I'm using FujiPoly 17W/mK.
Question is wrong actually. Final thickness will be the same if you install the thicker pad correct, because it will shrink down to the gap thickness, which is ~1.1 mm i suppose. But don't use screws for pressing - better do it careful with your fingers, holding plate from the other side, in order to avoid plate bending. Then just secure heatsink with screws. Sorry if my english sucks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post

No. It requires a lot more information and a bunch of math.
Only a few formula, i can post it if anyone interested.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

Oh ok. Is there a big difference in thermal conductivity when you mix the thermal adhesive compared to using it pure?
Adhesive's thermal conductivity isn't really high, i think. Not more than 2 W\mK. So mixing it up with any decent grease will only increase resultant value,.
post #19 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

Bumping this question.
Oh and I missed this as well. What do you mean threaded rod and some nuts? Here's a picture of the VRM heatsink of my cards:



Notice that you can't use nut and bolts with those screw holes with standoffs.

Are those countersunk or pass-through holes that keep those screws/standoffs on? I can't tell by the picture.

If countersunk, I would replace the stock screws by using cutting a threaded rod or just drill it to make it a hole. Then use my own screws and nuts.


Personally, I never use thermal pads. I hard mount everything for better pressure and contact. Just be careful NOT to overtighten.

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post #20 of 42
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooling Fan View Post

Question is wrong actually. Final thickness will be the same if you install the thicker pad correct, because it will shrink down to the gap thickness, which is ~1.1 mm i suppose. But don't use screws for pressing - better do it careful with your fingers, holding plate from the other side, in order to avoid plate bending. Then just secure heatsink with screws. Sorry if my english sucks.
Only a few formula, i can post it if anyone interested.
Adhesive's thermal conductivity isn't really high, i think. Not more than 2 W\mK. So mixing it up with any decent grease will only increase resultant value,.[/quote]

That makes sense. Well, I think 1.5mm is easy to be shrinked down by just the screws, right? It isn't very thick compared to 1mm (ideal) thermal pad thickness.

You mean mixing will DECREASE the final value of the thermal conductivity, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post

Are those countersunk or pass-through holes that keep those screws/standoffs on? I can't tell by the picture.

If countersunk, I would replace the stock screws by using cutting a threaded rod or just drill it to make it a hole. Then use my own screws and nuts.


Personally, I never use thermal pads. I hard mount everything for better pressure and contact. Just be careful NOT to overtighten.


I'm not sure what a countersink/sunk is but basically those heatsink screw holes insert into two holes in the board and are held by simple screws from the back side of the board. The standoffs in the screw holes limit the pressure created by the screw mechanism. Can you explain further?

Hmmm, ok.
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