Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › EK DCP 4.0 vs. Phobya DC12-260 vs. DDC1T: Best sub £45 watercooling pump for GPU only loop?
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EK DCP 4.0 vs. Phobya DC12-260 vs. DDC1T: Best sub £45 watercooling pump for GPU only loop?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Hello,

Just a quick question really - out of the three, or any other pumps less than £45, which is better? Looking to run a 240mm Radiator, 16/11 tubing and compressions and an EK 7970 waterblock.

Important: Must be quieter and cooler than the Asus DirectCU cooler!

Regards
Luke
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post #2 of 11
Thread Starter 
Surely someone must have had some kind of experience with one of these pumps?
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post #3 of 11
The DCP 4.0 and the Phobya pump are the same thing, a rebadged Jingway DP pump. The EK pump is the more powerful DP-1200 and the Phobya is the DP-600. The Phobya DC12-400 is the same pump as the DCP 4.0

'Best' is a variable thing. The most powerful would be the DCP 4.0, its an 18 watt pump but I believe that any Laing pump, even the 10watt 1T is a better designed and built pump than others.
Some have had noise problems with 1T's but I don't understand how they could be that much different to any other DDC.
Any of them will work just fine as pumps in a simple one block loop.
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post #4 of 11
The old black impeller DDC is the much older PCB and motor controller design. Still a great solid and durable pump with the same quality ceramic ball bearing but the motor controllers are much more buzzy compared to the newer gen 3 pumps. I have also seen big improvments when changing out the pcb to a DIYIHK sanyo motor controller which makes them mor like the gen 3 models. Anhow you can still find NOS DDC1s for a similar great price but they are a little buzzy on noise.

Anyhow, for low cost + new + silence the jingway rebrands are pretty good options.

+1 in regard to not really needing much power for a single block loop. Any of those would work fine.
    
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post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

The old black impeller DDC is the much older PCB and motor controller design. Still a great solid and durable pump with the same quality ceramic ball bearing but the motor controllers are much more buzzy compared to the newer gen 3 pumps. I have also seen big improvments when changing out the pcb to a DIYIHK sanyo motor controller which makes them mor like the gen 3 models. Anhow you can still find NOS DDC1s for a similar great price but they are a little buzzy on noise.

Anyhow, for low cost + new + silence the jingway rebrands are pretty good options.

+1 in regard to not really needing much power for a single block loop. Any of those would work fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

The old black impeller DDC is the much older PCB and motor controller design. Still a great solid and durable pump with the same quality ceramic ball bearing but the motor controllers are much more buzzy compared to the newer gen 3 pumps. I have also seen big improvments when changing out the pcb to a DIYIHK sanyo motor controller which makes them mor like the gen 3 models. Anhow you can still find NOS DDC1s for a similar great price but they are a little buzzy on noise.

Anyhow, for low cost + new + silence the jingway rebrands are pretty good options.

+1 in regard to not really needing much power for a single block loop. Any of those would work fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

The old black impeller DDC is the much older PCB and motor controller design. Still a great solid and durable pump with the same quality ceramic ball bearing but the motor controllers are much more buzzy compared to the newer gen 3 pumps. I have also seen big improvments when changing out the pcb to a DIYIHK sanyo motor controller which makes them mor like the gen 3 models. Anhow you can still find NOS DDC1s for a similar great price but they are a little buzzy on noise.

Anyhow, for low cost + new + silence the jingway rebrands are pretty good options.

+1 in regard to not really needing much power for a single block loop. Any of those would work fine.

Right, so I'm thinking of getting the EK DCP 4.0 with the new combo-res kit, it seems pretty good value for £70. Question is, if I were to chuck in another 240 radiator and an EK LTX block for the CPU, could it still cut it?

One other thing - I saw your review on bmaverick's DDC1T and decided to buy one to have a play around with, considering I've never done a custom loop before. It was a valuable learning experience, and I can vouch for the fact that it most definitely is not a quiet pump.

I've been a fan of your site for ages though, and it's helped me with a lot of decisions for parts in my initial loop. I'm surprised that we haven't seen any reviews for the EK/Phobya pumps, as I'd have thought that they'd be gaining popularity with their pretty low price tag.

Anyhow, should I see a reduction on temps with my Asus 7970, considering I'll be running EK's 7970 DCII block, an XSPC EX240 radiator and 16/11 tubing and compressions (XSPC)?

Regards
Luke
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post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Sorry for the last post, safari issues!
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post #7 of 11
Yes it could. A good example of good performance at lower flow rates is the popular H220. With the stock kit you already have a fairly low .6GPM where most DIY setups are produce 1-2.0 GPM. Even with the smaller DIY pumps like the X2O 750, you can still see upwards of 1.0GPM.

Thermal performance usually doesn't see much more than 1-2c hit lower flow rates, the only issue becomes how difficult it is to bleed and fill. When you start approaching .5GPM, you have to start helping the air work itself out with the loop built and removed from the case. On most setups, that is certainly doable. Really high flow rates mainly just gives you self bleeding benefits and a couple of degrees.

The larger jingway pump is actually pretty powerful. It has a flat curve due to the flat blade impeller (pond pump like design) but about equal to a stock top DDC3.25 and relatively quiet. I tested one a LONG time ago on my old site that Danger Den branded...good pump.

Not sure on your heat question, I haven't been keeping up on the latest chips and heat loads. You best estimate will come from measuring your intial water vs air in delta and know what heat is being added before vs after. If you doubled up on rad and heat, temps should be about the same, etc. Rads are low in restriction so I'm always a fan of going big on the radiator size, can't really go too big. It just gives you flexibility in running slower fan speeds.
    
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post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

Yes it could. A good example of good performance at lower flow rates is the popular H220. With the stock kit you already have a fairly low .6GPM where most DIY setups are produce 1-2.0 GPM. Even with the smaller DIY pumps like the X2O 750, you can still see upwards of 1.0GPM.

Thermal performance usually doesn't see much more than 1-2c hit lower flow rates, the only issue becomes how difficult it is to bleed and fill. When you start approaching .5GPM, you have to start helping the air work itself out with the loop built and removed from the case. On most setups, that is certainly doable. Really high flow rates mainly just gives you self bleeding benefits and a couple of degrees.

The larger jingway pump is actually pretty powerful. It has a flat curve due to the flat blade impeller (pond pump like design) but about equal to a stock top DDC3.25 and relatively quiet. I tested one a LONG time ago on my old site that Danger Den branded...good pump.

Not sure on your heat question, I haven't been keeping up on the latest chips and heat loads. You best estimate will come from measuring your intial water vs air in delta and know what heat is being added before vs after. If you doubled up on rad and heat, temps should be about the same, etc. Rads are low in restriction so I'm always a fan of going big on the radiator size, can't really go too big. It just gives you flexibility in running slower fan speeds.

I'll probably go for a 360 up top when the time comes, and I'm thinking that'll probably be enough for a CPU and GPU loop.

Just another question, are there any coloured dyes or fluids that you'd recommend? I was once told that, despite not being the best in terms of performance, Mayhems pastel red is good for not clogging up your system.
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post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
Also, found your review. I'm getting a 4.0, it seems. I found the DDC1T a little loud an d therefore this seems perfect!
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post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by LukePilot152 View Post

I'll probably go for a 360 up top when the time comes, and I'm thinking that'll probably be enough for a CPU and GPU loop.

Just another question, are there any coloured dyes or fluids that you'd recommend? I was once told that, despite not being the best in terms of performance, Mayhems pastel red is good for not clogging up your system.

I have used Swiftech hydrx and EKoolant with good results, but I prefer UV colored tubing and distilled myself for lower maintence and longer lasting color. I have some UV colored tube pieces that are many years old now and still look like new. All UV fluids only seem to look really good for a couple of months before it's time to replace it. It is good to run something with a corrosion blocker if you have nickel plated parts though. I generally stick with bare copper blocks and just used distilled water plus PTnuke for biocide. Have run some loops for twonyears straight that way with really good low maintenance results. UV colored tubing is the better long lasting color option.
    
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