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First water cooling, multiple questions -UPDATE- pics of my new wc rig - Page 5

post #41 of 66
pricey indeed! there arent many ball bearing fans that are quiet, push a lot of air and have good static pressure. the ones that are good at these are of course higher priced. as you know, the gt ap-15 are the best compromise of all 3.
IMO, the gt ap-15 are silent in a normal room with noise going on. the bgears bblaster is a lot noiser, twice as loud.
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post #42 of 66
Thread Starter 
I have one more question regarding the choice of pump.

I don't know what to chose between these:

- D5 + alphacool D5 HF top + Alphacool plexi 5,25" res bay
http://www.aquatuning.fi/shopping_cart.php/bkey/8c2460de1f1a29152d557dd4db374f34

OR

- EK DDC3.2 PWM + X-RES 100
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-ddc-3-2-pwm-x-res-100.html


In my loop there will be:
Ek Supremacy Acetal CPU block + EK Supremacy GTX780 Nickel block + Alphacool XT45 240 rad + Alphacool XT45 360 rad + 16/10 tubing

so I don't know if that should be considered high or low restriction loop, and I read a lot that the DDC pump doesn't like to be used in low restriction loop, of course the one I would take is PWM so it would run at lower speed if needed eventhough I'm not sure how I should regulate the speed of it. I do have Asus thermal Armor on my MB where I can set the speed of every fan heads on my MB according to for example CPU temps.

So what do you think is best, D5 or DDC pwm ?
Best = most reliable, quitest, giving best temps, easiest to use

Thanks !
Edited by saberkick - 1/12/14 at 3:24am
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post #43 of 66
Thread Starter 
Up please !
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post #44 of 66
With just 2 blocks your loop would have a low amount of restriction.

That PWM DDC pump if setup right runs at slower speeds and isn't known to be as susceptible to the heat-related reliability issues associated with running a DDC pump at full speed at low restriction.

That said, the D5 would typically be the quieter and more reliable choice. A bay res, especially if it's one with a pump mounted to it, can sometimes be noisy if they transmit vibrations to the case. Looks like that bay res you listed would be separate from the pump? If so you shouldn't have that kind of trouble with it then.

As far as temperatures go, the flow rate doesn't affect it much, not like changing the fan speeds will. I would just start out with the pump set to the fastest speed it will run at that's below whatever my noise threshold is, (for me that's usually a '3' on a D5 vario). If temps aren't as low as I need then perhaps I might try a faster pump setting to see if it makes any difference at all, but usually if temps aren't right then it's time to adjust fan speeds, type &/or the number of fans &/or the their configuration, or lastly adding more rad.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/13/14 at 8:23am
post #45 of 66
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the answer.

I've decided to go with a D5 and a tube res (until I change my mind again....) because I'm to afraid of problems with acrylic bay res, tube tes seem to be more reliable. The res will be a Phobya Balancer 150.

I've also thought about making a drain line which will be simply adding a T adapter between the pump the the lower rad and from there a simple piece of tube with a seal plug at the end of it. And when I want to drain my loop I just need to unscrew that plug and the water should pour out, as simple as that. At least on paper, might be something in reality.

Thanks.
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post #46 of 66
Thread Starter 
Because of the help I got on this thread and on this forum in general I feel I must share with you the advancement in this wc project.

As I said I have bought a NZXT Switch 810 black mat case, I got it today it looks great and I can't wait to see how everything will look in it. Today I have also ordered all the wc components I need for my loop, so that's what it's gonna be:

CPU block: EK Supremacy acetal
GPU Block: EK FC GTX780 DCII plexi - nickel + backpate
Pump: Alphacool vpp655 vario + D5 HF acetal top
Res: Phobya Balancer 150 black nickel
Rads: Alphacool XT45 360mm + ST30 240mm
Fans: 6 Yate Loons D12SL for the 360 rad and 2 AP 15 for the 240 rad
Tubing: Masterkleer 16/10 white
Fittings: compression fittings black nickel
Coolant: distilled water + biocide + anti-corro fluid
Drain line: will be a simple T placed between the 240 rad (which will be on the bottom of the case) and the gpu block, then I'll just put a piece of tube there with a screw plug and the end of it, I wanted to spare some money and not take any vavle, hopefully it'll wotk.

So that's about it, of course there are few small accessories I took also such as some material to fix the pump, white led etc...

I'll try to take pics and post them.
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post #47 of 66
Thread Starter 
Ok guys I need your help again with some stuff.

I should get my watercooling gear tomorrow. I already have the cpu and gpu block which I opened to check that they were fine and clean, I had to fight a bit to replace the o rings on the gpu block but eventually it went fine.

Now I thought that I would rince the rads, and to make sure that the blocks and rads don't have any leaking problems I thought about building a tiny loop in my kitchen, where I would put the res of course, just below the pump and beside the cpu/gpu blocks and rads. I would only plug them one at a time, so I'd have to fill and drain this loop 4 times because I'll be testing 4 components seperatly, one a a time (cpu block, then gpu block, then first rad and finally second rad). Do you think this is a good way to do ? I read a lot about leak testing outside the case, but I'm not sure at all how people mean to do this ? Do they mean the actually put and plug everything in the case and then while everything is plugged take everything out, then fill the loop to leak test and if it's ok put everything back in the case and the tubing still connected and the water still inside the loop ?? Or just leak test the different components outside the case like I plan to do to see if there would be any issue with one of them ? (something other than a fitting not tight enough obviously).

Second thing I'd like help with is about filling and bleeding. The res will be place around the middle of the loop, the pump + 240 rad + gpu block will be under the res and the cpu block + 360 rad above it. I wondered if it would make things any easier at all if I should plug on top of the res a piece of tubing that would go to the top of the case and I would fill it from there ?
The res will be a Phobya Balancer 150. Of course once the loop is filled I would remove that tubing the seal the top with a normal 1/4" plug. But if I put that piece of tubing is there any chance that I fill the loop to much to the point where I cannot remove that tubing anymore because there's constantly water in it ? In that case what should I do ? It may sound stupid but I want to avoid as much as possible problems in my first time putting together a wc loop.

Thanks !!!!! thumb.gif
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post #48 of 66
There are many ways ppl clean and check for leaks with their WC components. What your planning to do is fine....Yes, its your 1st time and you should be cautious and careful. Dont try to take shortcuts your first go around. Create your loop outside the case as you indicate. Clean and rinse whatever components that you wants. If your cleaning and rinsing.....I would suggest that you use distilled water when doing this process.

Once your done, install all your components back to your case. Rebuild your loop and do another test. If you have another spare PSU.....I would use the spare PSU....Plug in your pump and let it run your loop making sure that the only thing plugged is your pump.

Drain and fill port. I always use a cylinder res because the top of the Bitspower res has multiple ports and I just use one of the ports to fill the loop using a Syringe. The drain port....I normally use a drain valve and install in at the lowest point of my loop. Good Luck.
 
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post #49 of 66
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustacap22 View Post

There are many ways ppl clean and check for leaks with their WC components. What your planning to do is fine....Yes, its your 1st time and you should be cautious and careful. Dont try to take shortcuts your first go around. Create your loop outside the case as you indicate. Clean and rinse whatever components that you wants. If your cleaning and rinsing.....I would suggest that you use distilled water when doing this process.

Once your done, install all your components back to your case. Rebuild your loop and do another test. If you have another spare PSU.....I would use the spare PSU....Plug in your pump and let it run your loop making sure that the only thing plugged is your pump.

Drain and fill port. I always use a cylinder res because the top of the Bitspower res has multiple ports and I just use one of the ports to fill the loop using a Syringe. The drain port....I normally use a drain valve and install in at the lowest point of my loop. Good Luck.

Well I have 2 spare PSU's so I'm covered with that.
But about leak testing outside the case I still don't know if you mean that I should build the loop outside the case the same way I would do it inside the case OR if I should just make a little loop with only one component at a time and test for some minutes ?

Thanks a lot !
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post #50 of 66
your test loop outside the case is really not gonna matter. It doesnt need to be the exact as it would be inside the case. Sure, you can just make a little loop with one component at a time. If you look at it. When your "cleaning" your WC components.....if it doesn't leak then your good as well. Personally, clean each WC component with the little loop you indicated....if no leaks then your good. Build your loop to its entirety and then leak test the whole thing inside the case.
 
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