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First timer building a custom loop NEED HELP!! - Page 8

post #71 of 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Is your reservoir clear? I know you went orange tubing, so, my opinion, get some orange Mayhems X1, and never worry about a thing! It has biocides to keep algae killed, and it has corrosion inhibitors to keep any issues with dissimilar metals at bay. Or go for the Pastel Orange from them, your tubing being orange won't be affected by it either and you get the bling in your reservoir instead of just clear. And there is almost no difference in temps between plain DISTILLED and "coolant". I've run my systems both ways to test for temps. And there was less than 1c difference.
Sure you are talking to me ? tongue.gif My tubes are black m8 smile.gif
And I like the clear look, I have RGB lighting in my case and a strip behind the res so the water changes when the light does wink.gif
And yea, temp diff between distilled and colored coolant shouldn't be measurable, but I heard too many stories about colored coolant dropping its color in the blocks, coating the surface and therefore reducing the cooling ability / clogging up the block.
I will never change from cheap distilled / silver kill, it just works too well and easy / cheap to maintenance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toan View Post

I just read the description of my fittings, it says its made of brass.

"New EK Perfect Seal Compression Fitting (PCS Fitting) is a real high flow fitting. Made of brass with quality o-ring. Surface is coated with quality finish that is used for automotive industry. A unique design with side imprinted EK logo will give your watercooling system a higher value. "

Does that mean anything? even though its coated?
They are brass. so no problem with silver.. they are coated, so even if they where nickel (or even aluminum) there wouldnt be a problem.
But your GPU block is still nickel.. witch has MUCH more surface to water vs your fittings.
I would worry more about the GPU.
 
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post #72 of 199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post

They are brass. so no problem with silver.. they are coated, so even if they where nickel (or even aluminum) there wouldnt be a problem.
But your GPU block is still nickel.. witch has MUCH more surface to water vs your fittings.
I would worry more about the GPU.

Would that little of silver really cause that much corrosion with the gpu block? I'm ordering some ptnuke now, should I get the normal one or the PHN one?
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post #73 of 199
Well, It doesn't rly depend on the amount of silver, but the amount of metals that are reactive to the silver (nickel)
I haven't got any personal experience on this, so I cant really say.
However, as stated earlier.. I love kill coils tongue.gif I would use kill coil, check the block a few months later and THEN decide to keep silver or switch to PTNuke.
PHN sounded better, but I really have no idea smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarpPrism View Post

I like PTNuke (especially the PHN variant) in distilled water
 
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post #74 of 199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post

Well, It doesn't rly depend on the amount of silver, but the amount of metals that are reactive to the silver (nickel)
I haven't got any personal experience on this, so I cant really say.
However, as stated earlier.. I love kill coils tongue.gif I would use kill coil, check the block a few months later and THEN decide to keep silver or switch to PTNuke.
PHN sounded better, but I really have no idea smile.gif

Ok thanks for the input, I'm gonna do the silver coil like you said and check the loop every so often and then make a decision after.

I just ordered an additional black ice gt stealth 120 rad, cause do plan on doing crossfire 290s down the road when the price drops a little. A 240 and a 120 rad should do the trick to cool these.

So I'll get everything except the 120 rad within 3-4 days and probably another week or so for the 120 rad to come in. I'll try to remember to take tons of pictures.

+REP to @GaMbi2004 and @WarpPrism, seriously appreciate all the help you guys have given me. Probably wouldn't have done a custom loop without you guys smile.gifthumb.gif
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post #75 of 199
earm :/
That is another story.. I started up with 240 + 120 for CPU and GPU.. temps where fine, but I could only OC my CPU to 4.2 before the temps got in the way.
and that was with only ONE GPU mind you..
Are you going to OC the system?
 
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post #76 of 199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post

earm :/
That is another story.. I started up with 240 + 120 for CPU and GPU.. temps where fine, but I could only OC my CPU to 4.2 before the temps got in the way.
and that was with only ONE GPU mind you..
Are you going to OC the system?

I'm already oc'd to 4ghz
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post #77 of 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post

Sure you are talking to me ? tongue.gif My tubes are black m8 smile.gif
And I like the clear look, I have RGB lighting in my case and a strip behind the res so the water changes when the light does wink.gif
And yea, temp diff between distilled and colored coolant shouldn't be measurable, but I heard too many stories about colored coolant dropping its color in the blocks, coating the surface and therefore reducing the cooling ability / clogging up the block.
I will never change from cheap distilled / silver kill, it just works too well and easy / cheap to maintenance.
They are brass. so no problem with silver.. they are coated, so even if they where nickel (or even aluminum) there wouldnt be a problem.
But your GPU block is still nickel.. witch has MUCH more surface to water vs your fittings.
I would worry more about the GPU.

Actually, I was talking to Toan. And yes, I have heard of second rate coolants doing that same thing. But, as I said in my post. I have been running mayhems coolants in every system now for the last 3 years, and one machine with the same coolant for a full 2 years, I have drained that system to inspect ALL the blocks @ 6 month intervals, NO cleaning done during that time, just inspections then reassembled, and put the coolant I drained back into it, so it's running the same exact coolant the whole time. Zero staining of any of the blocks, the tubing is still clear, no gummy build up anywhere. I appreciate your concerns re: coolants, but in my systems, I will ONLY run with Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel as coolant, and nothing else. In my testing in my machines, I've found it to be the best of both worlds with regards to aesthetics, function, and reliability with no need to service the machine and check ph etc. Yes, it is a "little" more expensive than just DISTILLED and a coil, but I exclusively run Nickel plated blocks also!!! So no silver coil for me. I see no benefit to running just DISTILLED and some type of biocide and corrosion stuff when I can just buy the right stuff already made with it.
post #78 of 199
Yea, on CPU only, right? that is 2x120..
A good rule is base 120 + 120 for all heat generating units + 120 for OC..
that's 5x120 in your case.. you have 3x120.

It might work with no OC or even a low OC.. but, yea.. :S
 
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post #79 of 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post

Yea, on CPU only, right? that is 2x120..
A good rule is base 120 + 120 for all heat generating units + 120 for OC..
that's 5x120 in your case.. you have 3x120.

It might work with no OC or even a low OC.. but, yea.. :S

Actually, it's supposed to be 120mm rad space per block, with an extra 120mm added at the end for headroom. So, CPU only would be 240, CPU+GPU=360, CPU+2xGPUs=480 and so on. OC of system doesn't factor into the equation.
But more is ALWAYS better!!!

My primary system is running a 4930k@4.7ghz, 3-780Ti's, a full motherboard block, and 2xram block, so I should have 7-120mm plus 1 for total of 8x120, but I didn't do that, I went with 17x120mm because that's what my case allowed me to use (Case Labs STH10).

There really is no such thing as overkill in liquid cooling.
Edited by Jimhans1 - 1/11/14 at 10:49am
post #80 of 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Actually, I was talking to Toan. And yes, I have heard of second rate coolants doing that same thing. But, as I said in my post. I have been running mayhems coolants in every system now for the last 3 years, and one machine with the same coolant for a full 2 years, I have drained that system to inspect ALL the blocks @ 6 month intervals, NO cleaning done during that time, just inspections then reassembled, and put the coolant I drained back into it, so it's running the same exact coolant the whole time. Zero staining of any of the blocks, the tubing is still clear, no gummy build up anywhere. I appreciate your concerns re: coolants, but in my systems, I will ONLY run with Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel as coolant, and nothing else. In my testing in my machines, I've found it to be the best of both worlds with regards to aesthetics, function, and reliability with no need to service the machine and check ph etc. Yes, it is a "little" more expensive than just DISTILLED and a coil, but I exclusively run Nickel plated blocks also!!! So no silver coil for me. I see no benefit to running just DISTILLED and some type of biocide and corrosion stuff when I can just buy the right stuff already made with it.

My bad smile.gif thought you was refering to me, hehe.
And good to hear you have had good experience with it! Im sure most of the horror stories Iw seen on OCN was from some of brand solution or something..
Im fairly new in W/Cing, so can only share what I've learned from experience and from here.
In my case, distilled + coil works best wink.gif but I cant help but envy many of the build logs that uses it tongue.gif
 
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