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290x VRM1 High Temps EK waterblock - Page 6

post #51 of 67
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon720 View Post

Ok i have 2 r9 290x with ek blocks in serial. I have the fujipoly ultra extreme.

Gpu1: Idle ___ Load
Vrm1: 36. ___ 45-50
Vrm2: 34 ____ 38

  Gpu2: Idle  ___  Load
Vrm1: 40-43___ 61-69
Vrm2: 36 ______ 42

This was while playing battlefield 4 i know the high range is expectable. The issue is should there be that much difference? I have 30st 360 in push/pull and a 240 in push. Id think if there wasnt enough cooling both cards would be similar. The water should be around the same temp.



What are temps on Gpus for both and whats your flow rate?
post #52 of 67
When i turned my comp on after letting it cool off, gpu core 1: was 36 gpu core 2: 37 at idle. On load cores range 42-52, both have clu. The flow rate i dunno.. I have an ek d5/res pump turned all the way up to #5 (4500-4700 rpm) with ek supremacy, and ek NB/SB blocks. I mean i suppose the thermal pad on vrm1 of the 2nd gpu isnt making the best contact? I do have the pt1 bios which dosnt downclock at idle nor do the volts. I saw a tri x cards temps at idle and its vrm1 was the same as mine, but the stock bios downclocks. Also when i first started computer i noticed 2nd card vrm1 started at 40. Id think though if the thermal pad wasnt making good contact id end up getting vrm1 temps through the roof. Instead they are just similar to a good air cooler. Still feel like vrm1 on both cards should be within 5 degrees of eachother. I should note that with pt1 bios at 1.2-1.23 volts max power limit under load, first card pulled 270w, and the second card topped out a touch higher at 283w (hwinfo64) idle both are around 40w
Edited by Talon720 - 3/12/14 at 6:17am
post #53 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon720 View Post

When i turned my comp on after letting it cool off, gpu core 1: was 36 gpu core 2: 37 at idle. On load cores range 42-52, both have clu. The flow rate i dunno.. I have an ek d5/res pump turned all the way up to #5 (4500-4700 rpm) with ek supremacy, and ek NB/SB blocks. I mean i suppose the thermal pad on vrm1 of the 2nd gpu isnt making the best contact? I do have the pt1 bios which dosnt downclock at idle nor do the volts. I saw a tri x cards temps at idle and its vrm1 was the same as mine, but the stock bios downclocks. Also when i first started computer i noticed 2nd card vrm1 started at 40. Id think though if the thermal pad wasnt making good contact id end up getting vrm1 temps through the roof. Instead they are just similar to a good air cooler. Still feel like vrm1 on both cards should be within 5 degrees of eachother. I should note that with pt1 bios at 1.2-1.23 volts max power limit under load, first card pulled 270w, and the second card topped out a touch higher at 283w (hwinfo64) idle both are around 40w

It sounds like you have poor contact to me. GPU1 temps are where they should be, and so are VRM2 temps on GPU2.   Try reseating if you don't want to spend the extra couple dollars.  If you are going to reseat I would change the thermal pads while you have it apart just to get the best performance possible.

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post #54 of 67
Newcomer. Whats your guy's take on using artic silver 5 thermal adhesive vs the premium pads?
post #55 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlaplante View Post

Newcomer. Whats your guy's take on using artic silver 5 thermal adhesive vs the premium pads?


That adhesive can be quite difficult to remove, I would suggest against it.

See the link in my sig for Fujipoly Ultra Extreme temperature drops compared to stock XSPC pads.
Edited by Roboyto - 3/13/14 at 7:05am
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post #56 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlaplante View Post

Newcomer. Whats your guy's take on using artic silver 5 thermal adhesive vs the premium pads?

If your block calls for a thermal pad use thermal pad and fujipoly are worth it. If your talking about the core ove heard artic silver is an old standard.. Ive used gelid extreme worked great and read ptk3
post #57 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboyto View Post

It sounds like you have poor contact to me. GPU1 temps are where they should be, and so are VRM2 temps on GPU2.   Try reseating if you don't want to spend the extra couple dollars.  If you are going to reseat I would change the thermal pads while you have it apart just to get the best performance possible.
Yea, just weird the temp still only goes up by 10 degrees on the vrm1 on either card, when ambient temp is decent in the room. Im trying to avoid taking it apart. I just put the water block on with fujipoly pads and dont want to **** them up. I am curious what went wrong. I put the together the same way, but i suppose it coulda slipped out of place. If anyone else is on the line about buying fujipoly pads they are worth it. Think of it as insurance on your cards to keep them cooler thus safer.
post #58 of 67
Hey guys. I also have 2 x GIGABYTE R9 290X'S With Ek waterblocks. My cards seem to be reaching 93c on Core @ full load with stock clocks. They are flashed with Asus bios and running in a seperate loop with a phobya 400 and an xspc 240 radiator in push pull. I have tried re-sitting and arctic x4 thermal paste.... I have no idea why they are getting so hot. Any help would be appreciated.
post #59 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danyon View Post

Hey guys. I also have 2 x GIGABYTE R9 290X'S With Ek waterblocks. My cards seem to be reaching 93c on Core @ full load with stock clocks. They are flashed with Asus bios and running in a seperate loop with a phobya 400 and an xspc 240 radiator in push pull. I have tried re-sitting and arctic x4 thermal paste.... I have no idea why they are getting so hot. Any help would be appreciated.

Are the EK blocks directional for flow? Maybe you have them backwards? I did this on my old Swiftech Apogee XT Waterblock and as soon as the CPU had load the CPU would hit 90C and then climb from there.

You should have enough rad space for the two cards if that is a 400mm radiator? I'm not familiar with phobya
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post #60 of 67
I would say maybe not enough thermal paste or perhaps machining error and it's not making contact with the block.

I've had this issue before and solved it with a copper shim on a different card.

Air in the system could cause this as well. Tilt the computer to the left or right to get the bubbles out. It could be causing that as well.
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