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First time/ build log

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
So this is my first time water cooling and I just wanted to share my build as I go and to post what info I have what worked what didn't and what issues I came across

Case is cooler master HAF - X
Mobo is Asus Maximus v formula
Ram is 16 gigs corsair dominator platinum 1866
Gpu's 2 x evga gtx 560 ti 448 core classified
Power supply corsair ax1200
Optical drive Asus blue ray
Ssd corsair force gt 120 gig
Hdd western digital 1tb black

Water cooling components

Swiftech mcp655 threaded variable time pump
Stealth gt 360 radiator
Primochill 1/2 inner diameter 3/4 outer diameter tubing (red)
Bits power water tank 150 resivoiur
Bits power 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD mat black compression fitting
Swiftech apogee HD CPU waterblock
Various fans( will be changing soon)
post #2 of 23
Thread Starter 
I want to first star off with telling anyone new to water cooling that you don't want to tighten your compression fittings into your blocks without taking the ring off first they are ungodly hard to take apart if you don't. The only way that I found to work is to put a cloth over them and then use vice grips to turn the two parts apart.

This is my haf x stripped completely down so I can get a better idea of where things will go and how I can route cables.

That's my motherboard with the apogee installed ( very easy it came with the 1155 bracket on it. Just screw it down into the backplate and tighten evenly) then I switched the bards out for compression fittings.
post #3 of 23
Thread Starter 

That's the radiator direction (chosen because the res was in the back) with fittings

That's the pwm splitting pcb I used at the top rear of the drive bays to plug in the 3 radiator fans for some cable management and convenience. They are very cheap and come with Velcro to mount anywhere you want
post #4 of 23
Thread Starter 

The fans on top of the radiator on the top of my haf x ( the radiator goes about half way into the top drive bay) another thing to take into consideration the rad could be put on top of the case under the plastic with the barbs down but you would have to get creative with fans and holes.

Pump placement is in front of the power supply mounted through the holes for ventilation in the bottom of case.

post #5 of 23
Thread Starter 
another view of pump. (The inlet in in the bottom part and the outlet is the top port) wasn't expecting that but it worked out ok.

Here is the first issue that arose it's the mpci card I believe that's what they are called for my motherboard that gives me inboard wifi and Bluetooth. The clearance is very small in the corner not much room at all. By the way if you buy that mobo DO NOT plug that card in before you get the OS installed because it causes the board not to boot for anyone who wants that board. You have to enable the card in the uefi (bios)
post #6 of 23
Thread Starter 

The res placement. It is on the back of the case right above the thumb screws for your graphics cards. It's screwed in using the back ventilation holes ( same as the pump) using the included mounting hardware that came with the res. (the res comes with a debubbler or vortex stopper thing installed and a pipe, an led plug, and a 3 port top/bottom whichever you choose.

post #7 of 23
Thread Starter 

First piece of tubing. Cut it with PVC cutters from lowes $19.98 they make a clean perfect strait cut every time. So then you just throw the ring side of the compression fitting onto the tube then plug the tubing on. It takes some force but I didn't need any water or heating the end to get it on it was easy. People also say that the primochill lrt advanced tubing especially at 1/2 ID is not flexible and doesn't go on barbs but it was really easy. Great tubing so far. Then I put the other end of tube up next to the other fitting and used my fingernail to mark the tube then cut it on that line. The other thing to look out for is make sure the res is above the pump.
post #8 of 23
Thread Starter 

This is the next line put in. It goes strait to the CPU inlet because you need the most pressure to be on the CPU because the block restricts flow a little and out of the pump is the most pressure.

My next line. This one was a little tight also but worked we'll I think.

The loop so far.
post #9 of 23
Thread Starter 

The completed loop. Finally. Oh by the way those bits power compression fittings tore my hands to pieces tightening them up. I also only hand tightened all my fittings by hand as much as I could and retightened again after running the loop for a few hours.

That is the jumper if you will to make your power supply turn on without actually being plugged into your board. It is necessary to get one of these or to jump the 2 wires yourself to be able to fill the loop and be able to turn your power on and off from the back of the psu.

I have looked all over the internet with how much testing to do for leaks and I decided on about 4-6 hours. It's also a good time to check the res top and bottom for tightness they were a little loose when I got it so make sure to check. I used a primochill syringe to fill my loop with just distilled water (with 2 drops of IandH deadwater biocide) which will be all I'm running for now because I hear dies clog blocks.
post #10 of 23
Thread Starter 

This is the loop filled which only took about 6-7 full syringes and 1 time of turning the pump off to fill. To prime the pump you need to fill the res to the top and turn on power and let it pull the water into the loop ( water needs to be in pump before turning it on or it will kill your pump) then refill and it should be good to go. I encountered a small very slow leak I think from the bottom cap on the res. I tightened it up and haven't seen it leak again so I think it's good.
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