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Suggestions on my custom built desk? - Page 2

post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedster159 View Post

Don't quite get your diagram.

I think the seam on the table top would annoy me..
The black strips are 2" wide and .5" thick.

They would add a bit of strength but it would be a better idea to add extra feet as displayed by the red lines in the diagram above.
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post #12 of 16
Reinforcement laying "flat" is nearly useless. Ever wondered why beams (wood, metal, w/e) are deeper (have more height) than wide? Width doesn't add that much strength.
To quantify it, this 2" x 0,5" section is 4x stronger when you try to "bend" it against the 2" vs. trying to do so vs. the .5".

Tables need some short of a "beam", running underneath the tabletop to insure that the assembly is rigid enough. Using thicker material, it would be passable, but that adds to the cost and it is still not as strong as it could be.

If you just run the reinforcing transverse piece you have in the back of the desk along the center piece, you will add some meaningful strength.

This is a very rough sketch of how I would start thinking about a simple desk, assuming that the "builder" has no specialized tools to make it happen. Everything is Plywood.

Plywood usually comes in 4 ft x 8ft boards = the table top cannot be from a single piece. Could be from either 2x or 3x pieces.



I think you can do it with 2x sheets. That would be in the $35~50 per sheet, depending on plywood quality, finish, thickness and ofc source.
Keep in mind that neither the sheets are always exactly 4x8, nor that you can cut 2x 24" wide strips out a a 48" sheet. Remember that each run of the blade wastes some material (known as kerf) - that is 1/4" to 3/8" for most common table or panel saws. Thus if you had a 48" wide sheet, at best you would get 2x 23-7/8" pieces, and not 2x 24" pieces. Thus, dimensions on the diagrams are not "exact". 1/4" smaller won't really matter, as long as you are consistent.
The 2x 24" tabletop pieces can be rotated 90 deg on the sheet, and you can make them 24" exact, but that is not possible to do for the "legs", unless you do 2x 24" for the outer ones, and the inner ones (at the corner) are less than 24". The whole deal is the tabletop "wings" having the same width as the outer legs.

Overall height is 30".



Red pieces are the "legs"
Green are the transverse beams, 4" or so deep that add strength / help the table top resist bending
Blue are there for the butt-joint of the table top
Yellow are not really adding anything but more unifying the blues. You could bring all the blue and yellow pieces flush with the table top to give it a "double-thickness" look. Now are like 3" offset.
Edited by pcfoo - 1/3/14 at 12:09pm
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post #13 of 16
What concerns me is lack of support on the inside aside from the two ends. I do realise it's probably to keep leg room free near the middle but I wouldn't build it without more support for the inside. Maybe right-trapezoid-cut boards near the corner, covering under the desk, the wall (assuming this desk is pushed into a corner), and a little bit of the floor just to aid it without blocking leg room? Dunno.
Edited by Blubird - 1/3/14 at 12:12pm
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post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
The desk is going to be pushed to a corner, but that could change.


@pcfoo I'm no designer by any means, so i can barely understand what you're trying to say... Haha.

I'm going to take the design to a woodworks shop to make it built.

What I don't understand is how thick the blue and yellow are.

Is it better to have the tabletop and the sides all lined up like i have mine? Your have this sort of overhang?


Here is the final layout I want for the desk. I will be putting a door on the middle, I just don't know how to illustrate it..





I will be more than happy to provide the File so you can view it. Can't upload it here and my Wordpress run site won't accept the file... so I guess I can E-mail it? Or if you need more measurements just ask?

Another problem I have is how does the entire thing breakup? I want it to be fairly easy to put together and take apart.

EDIT:

All the wood thickness there is 1 inch, No idea what thickness wood usually is so I just assumed 1 inch.
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post #15 of 16
Thickness of material depends on...the material.
Relatively cheap sanded plywood is in the region of 3/4", but ofc there are other sizes too.
Most furniture you see with thicker than 3/4" are rarely solid laminations. It is some particle board, MDF or other composite material (ala IKEA).

Material choice depends on the finish you want to achieve too. Will it be painted? Will it be stained? Will it be just getting a clear coat?

The "green" beams are offset, because the closer those are to the centerline of the board above them (the table-top in your case) the more rigid the assembly.
I have them 1.5" in my case, could be more/less. If it was 4", it would result in a "Stronger" assembly than if it was flush with the tabletop.

Some area behind those "green" guys would also allow you room for hiding cables etc behind.
If you don't absolutely have to, don't cut those cable routing wholes with the green pieces to put those caps on - you simply compromise all the integrity of that piece in this area.

Tabletop and sides/legs being flush to each other or not doesn't make it "better"...it is a purely visual thing.

Personally I would not enclose that space in the corner...I like stretching my legs / sitting low in my chair. Shelves ofc are also out of the question (beat the purpose of stretching, and you won't like getting under the desk to reach anything in there anyways).

If you are not after a special finish and/or shape, or house components etc in it, I don't know why you would bother with a custom desk...it won't be cheaper than buying a decent IKEA or equiv. corner desk.
Edited by pcfoo - 1/3/14 at 1:44pm
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post #16 of 16
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