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post #11 of 24
At the 1500W level you really have two options - units based on the Enermax Maxrevo/Platimax platform like the Lepa G-1600 and everything else.

If you need this kind of juice, my advice would be to spend the extra and get the Enermax version at 1500W if at all possible. They are still the only company really doing it right at this size. If not that, look at Silverstone and then EVGA in that order.

The Corsair isn't out yet and you could be waiting a good while for that one. It will likely not be at all cheap.
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post #12 of 24
You might want to talk to an electrician about having a dedicated 20A 120V outlet installed in your computer room.

The 1700W PSU, even platinum rated, if maxed out will consume a FULL 14A+ at 120V. If the line voltage is a more regular 115V, then that works out to 14.7A. You'll already be over the capacity of a 120V 15A circuit, and that's without a monitor, printer, etc. A 120V 20A circuit will deliver 16A safely. NEMA code regulations de-rate home and commercial circuits by 20%.

Greg
post #13 of 24
Thread Starter 
only in severe benching cases will i be that high. i bet my max out of the wall load while gaming would be in the 1000 watt range if not a little higher.
    
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post #14 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammong View Post

You might want to talk to an electrician about having a dedicated 20A 120V outlet installed in your computer room.

The 1700W PSU, even platinum rated, if maxed out will consume a FULL 14A+ at 120V. If the line voltage is a more regular 115V, then that works out to 14.7A. You'll already be over the capacity of a 120V 15A circuit, and that's without a monitor, printer, etc. A 120V 20A circuit will deliver 16A safely. NEMA code regulations de-rate home and commercial circuits by 20%.

Greg

the NEMA standard to to supply 125% of a continuous (24/7) load current. the math essentially works out the same. but the point is how long it needs to supply the current. there is nothing "unsafe" with using up to 15 amps for a few hours. and considering 12AWG wire (what is residential) can handle up to 30 amps @110/120 volts the worse case is weakening of the breaker and it starts tripping early.

simply swapping out with a 20 amp breaker will relieve that concern and still stay in code wink.gif

Edit: no i am not a licensed electrician but i play one on T.V. redface.gif
Edited by looniam - 1/13/14 at 9:33pm
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post #15 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

simply swapping out with a 20 amp breaker will relieve that concern and still stay in code wink.gif

Quite frankly, that's dangerous advice and definitely not in code.
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post #16 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahoma Wolf View Post

Quite frankly, that's dangerous advice and definitely not in code.

yea, im not doing that lol. there's no way from me to know right now what wiring was use to my room. it wouldn't be hard to have an electrician wire up my room for 20amp.
    
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post #17 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahoma Wolf View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

simply swapping out with a 20 amp breaker will relieve that concern and still stay in code wink.gif

Quite frankly, that's dangerous advice and definitely not in code.

sorry but there is nothing wrong with that
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r19368631-Electrical-question-20A-circuits
Quote:
Quote:
Electrical question - 20A circuits
If a circuit has a 20A breaker, does every component (switch, receptacle, wires, etc) need to be 20A rated?

No, not really. 15A receptacles are rated to handle 20 amps; they simply plug-faces that only accept 15 amp plugs. Having a 20 amp circuit to multiple 15 amp outlets reduces the chance you will overload the circuit when you have multiple appliances plugged in(vs. a 15 amp circuit).

if you care to there are several dozen search results google with give that contain ~the same information. to be more concise IF the house hold (or specifically the circuit to be used) is 12AWG then it is perfectly safe and within code to use a 20 amp breaker in both the U.S. and canada.

again i will admit i am NOT an electrician, just some guy who had to deal with hooking up mobile audio and lighting systems, with some needing several thousand watts, for several years and dealt with . . . .obstacles. and at times had to have an inspector looking over my shoulder.

i do appreciate your concern and caution for the OP though thumb.gif

EDIT:
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxxx View Post


yea, im not doing that lol. there's no way from me to know right now what wiring was use to my room. it wouldn't be hard to have an electrician wire up my room for 20amp.

well you could try looking to see if the srvice panel is labeled, as it should.

but by all means call a reputable electrician and please be careful that while they are speaking to you, that you don't give them "the deer in the headlights" look and end up spending several thousands of dollars for unnecessary work for what ought to be a $100 or so job.
Edited by looniam - 1/14/14 at 10:47am
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post #18 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

the NEMA standard to to supply 125% of a continuous (24/7) load current. the math essentially works out the same. but the point is how long it needs to supply the current. there is nothing "unsafe" with using up to 15 amps for a few hours. and considering 12AWG wire (what is residential) can handle up to 30 amps @110/120 volts the worse case is weakening of the breaker and it starts tripping early.

simply swapping out with a 20 amp breaker will relieve that concern and still stay in code wink.gif

Edit: no i am not a licensed electrician but i play one on T.V. redface.gif

If you know with 100% certainty that the branch circuit has 12 gauge wire from the panel to the plug, then you can safely upgrade to a 20A outlet.

Most houses with 120V 15A circuits have 14 gauge wiring behind the outlet, and replacing the breaker with a 20A one is illegal and could result in a fire hazard.

15A 120V circuits are rated for 15A continuous draw for periods less than 3 hours. If the time exceeds 3 hours, the circuit is de-rated 20% to 13 A.

I also am not a licensed electrician, but I do have an EE degree.

Greg
post #19 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammong View Post

If you know with 100% certainty that the branch circuit has 12 gauge wire from the panel to the plug, then you can safely upgrade to a 20A outlet.

Most houses with 120V 15A circuits have 14 gauge wiring behind the outlet, and replacing the breaker with a 20A one is illegal and could result in a fire hazard.

This, exactly. Unless you know the entire circuit top to bottom, don't swap breakers with bigger breakers assuming you'll be ok.

Consult a licensed electrician.
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post #20 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahoma Wolf View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by hammong View Post

If you know with 100% certainty that the branch circuit has 12 gauge wire from the panel to the plug, then you can safely upgrade to a 20A outlet.

Most houses with 120V 15A circuits have 14 gauge wiring behind the outlet, and replacing the breaker with a 20A one is illegal and could result in a fire hazard.

This, exactly. Unless you know the entire circuit top to bottom, don't swap breakers with bigger breakers assuming you'll be ok.

Consult a licensed electrician.

IIRC 14AWG hasn't been generally used since fuses in service panels.

BUT as you said, when in doubt - call an electrician - it would be silly and dangerous not to.

cheers
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