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Silver Kill Coil VS PT Nuke PHN - Page 5

post #41 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazooni View Post

This is the kill coil I ordered and it seems like it is big enough.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11441/ex-tub-705/IandH_Silver_KillCoils_-_Antimicrobial_999_Fine_Silver_Tubing_Reservoir_Strip.html
The reason I am still going with the silver and the nickel in the same loop is because the electronegativity of silver is 1.93 and the electronegativity of nickel is 1.91 which means they are quite similar. I did not know this until I explored another forum where Martinm210 (martinsliquidlab) stated it. He says the majority of issues between silver and nickel occurred with EK's older nickel plated blocks. When I heard it from "martinsliquidlab" that reassured me because he is an op in liquid cooling.
I will also still be adding the fesser base for anti corrosive. Does anyone know how often I need to add more fesser base? I will be draining my loop at least once a year to add a new components so I guess it should last at least a year.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrode-potential-d_482.html

Not sure where those ratings came from, but silver and nickle have a notable difference in electrode potential. I wouldn't worry about that difference if you use the TFC Corrosion blocker though, ethylene glycol acts as an ionic buffer, preventing them from reacting assuming they aren't in direct contact.
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post #42 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrode-potential-d_482.html

Not sure where those ratings came from, but silver and nickle have a notable difference in electrode potential. I wouldn't worry about that difference if you use the TFC Corrosion blocker though, ethylene glycol acts as an ionic buffer, preventing them from reacting assuming they aren't in direct contact.

You do know that the electrode potential changes depending on the electrolyte solution right? I am not going to re-read through it but I am pretty sure that the chart off that website is the standard electrode potential of sea-water or its equivalent. Just saying.
post #43 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaaQ View Post

You do know that the electrode potential changes depending on the electrolyte solution right? I am not going to re-read through it but I am pretty sure that the chart off that website is the standard electrode potential of sea-water or its equivalent. Just saying.

It doesn't state what solution it was tested, just what it's electrode potential is in reference to hydrogen which is 0.

It's entirely irreverent anyways, with E.G. as an ionic buffer it shouldn't yield any issues.
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post #44 of 58
As is stated on the first page yes.

I did a lot of reading into it awhile back. The sep is based off of sea-water as the electrolyte due to most commercial applications having the worst corrosion issues are marine based. In layams terms.
Edited by DaaQ - 1/14/14 at 8:05pm
post #45 of 58
Thread Starter 
I saw martin list that info in one of his comments on another forum and I also just typed electronegativity of silver/nickel into the google search bar and it came up. By tfc corrosion blocker you guys mean fesser base right?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html
How often do you need to add more fesser base?
post #46 of 58
Strange that you keep mentioning Martin (of martinsliquidlabs) saying silver and nickel are similar, if I'm reading you correctly. I suspect you might have misread whatever he was saying.

I quoted Martin earlier on this topic from a comment he made here at OCN not too long ago saying something quite different. He even shows as much in the chart he provided.

I seriously doubt you would ever find Martin recommending that silver is alright to be used with nickel. I've only ever seen him say exactly the opposite unless used with some sort of an anti-corrosive additive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrocutor View Post

PT Nuke Cu is for people who use distilled water and other stuff like dyes. Obviously, anything that would react to copper sulfate is a no-no.

PT Nuke PHN is for people who strictly use distilled water with no other additives. Among other things, this is a surfactant and mild anti-corrosive, so don't mix it with anything else. Even most dyes (not all, but most) will drop out into goo due to PHN properties.

As many have stated, the silver kill coil requires that it be in direct water flow to be effective. I'll also note that you should keep it only touching plastic and other non-conductive surfaces, because if it's in direct contact with other metals (like copper) you'll get some serious galvanic corrosion going.

After a few months of running through copper water blocks, it's unlikely that anything will grow within the water due to all the copper ions in it.

^ +1 This.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/14/14 at 8:32pm
post #47 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazooni View Post

I saw martin list that info in one of his comments on another forum and I also just typed electronegativity of silver/nickel into the google search bar and it came up. By tfc corrosion blocker you guys mean fesser base right?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html
How often do you need to add more fesser base?

I mean the TFC Corrosion Blocker linked in the original post, so yeah. Fesser Base is not a product, it's a product line: There's Fesser One Base coolant, corrosion blocker, biocides, and all that jazz so just saying Fesser Base is pretty vague. Just a heads up in case anyone wasn't following, TFC==The Fesser Company, so Fesser products. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

You never add more TFC Corrosion Blocker. You add more water because H2O evaporates as well as absorbs into some tubing, so you lose coolant. E.G. will NOT evaporate or absorb into tubing. If you're losing E.G. in your loop it's from a leak, in which case you shouldn't add more you should disassemble your loop and fix it. XD

So yeah, just mix it in whatever proportion it says to mix it in, which as it turns out is one 50ml bottle to 2-3liters of distilled water.

Do keep in mind it's not dielectric as the product page lists. Finding a dielectric water based coolant is near impossible, as materials found in common dust can reionize water making it electrically conductive. I'm going to assume your MoBo or other PCBs will have at least a little dust on them, so if you spill dielectric water based coolant on it then BOOM, it's conductive again. XD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Strange that you keep mentioning Martin (of martinsliquidlabs) saying silver and nickel are similar, if I'm reading you correctly. I suspect you might have misread whatever he was saying.

I quoted Martin earlier on this topic from a comment he made here at OCN not too long ago saying something quite different. He even shows as much in the graph he provided.

I seriously doubt you would ever find Martin recommending that silver is alright to be used with nickel. I've only ever seen him say exactly the opposite unless used with some sort of an anti-corrosive additive.

^This

But again, E.G. will act as an ionic buffer, so no issues should occur.
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post #48 of 58
Thread Starter 
I re read the other forums thread where I thought martin had commented. My mistake it was someone else to wrote the info, sorry for my mistake. Martin did post a comment on the thread but it wasn't about silver and nickel. This is exactly what the other person said:
Quote:
silver has an electro negativity of 1.93, nickle is 1.91, copper is 1.90, brass is 1.92-1.93 and aluminum is 1.61. you need a difference of ~0.25-0.3 to have galvanic corrosion so this is not anything about silver and nickle not getting along (silver and copper are further apart, and copper and brass are about the same apart.) the only reason that they have this is to void warranties, and to get people to buy their BS fluid that will clog blocks and is highly profitable.

you were thinking of gold, it has an electro negativity 2.54, so you should not really mix gold with copper, but the gold will move to the copper so it wont be a problem, but then silver will move to nickle so that should also not be a problem, especially since you should put a nickle layer before putting silver on a part.
post #49 of 58
Thread Starter 
While applying the fesser base corrosion blocker should I do it when the loop is filled up into the res or should I empty the distilled water into some sort of plastic bin and apply it there? Is it important to apply the fesser base corrosion blocker exactly 2% or is it fine if I add a little more?
post #50 of 58
I only use Liquid Utopia anti corrosive/algae
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