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post #3421 of 8148
I would not run either 24/7 to be honest, and never the 2nd set even for benching on air. But your temps are really good so I don't know.
post #3422 of 8148
Quote:
Originally Posted by geggeg View Post

I would not run either 24/7 to be honest, and never the 2nd set even for benching on air. But your temps are really good so I don't know.

I don't know what to do, the card is cold but is there a safe threshold before the degradation of the GPU?
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post #3423 of 8148
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreTM View Post

I don't know what to do, the card is cold but is there a safe threshold before the degradation of the GPU?

At temps reaching 70c your card is not cool at all. With the kingpin cards temp and volts play a big part of your overclock and the card will artifact sooner regardless of volts once it gets close to 70c. I think under 67c or so is ideal for air cooling with this card. Have your tried 1250mhz or so and closer to 1.212 volts. Thats where I kept mine when using the stock cooler. I know thats not the option you wanna hear but these cards really need water cooling or more to push the clocks.
post #3424 of 8148
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDhydro View Post

At temps reaching 70c your card is not cool at all. With the kingpin cards temp and volts play a big part of your overclock and the card will artifact sooner regardless of volts once it gets close to 70c. I think under 67c or so is ideal for air cooling with this card. Have your tried 1250mhz or so and closer to 1.212 volts. Thats where I kept mine when using the stock cooler. I know thats not the option you wanna hear but these cards really need water cooling or more to push the clocks.

I saw some artifacts only in few bench and at higher frequencies. Also heavy games are perfect at frequencies that I wrote above. My question is what is the safe limit for the voltage, anyway the card with all switches disabled takes around 1.218V..
The thing that I don't understand is why with both disabled the voltage went down from 1.3 (both enabled) to 1.21..
Edited by AndreTM - 3/12/14 at 1:33pm
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post #3425 of 8148
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreTM View Post

I saw some artifacts only in few bench and at higher frequencies. Also heavy games are perfect at frequencies that I wrote above. My question is what is the safe limit for the voltage, anyway the card with all switches disabled takes around 1.25V (I'm going to verify this), I don't know any way to have 1.212 real...

on air i would stick with 1.25v, with water you can go up to 1.35v for every day use as long as you keep temps under 45c....... my 2cents.gif
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post #3426 of 8148
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreTM View Post

I saw some artifacts only in few bench and at higher frequencies. Also heavy games are perfect at frequencies that I wrote above. My question is what is the safe limit for the voltage, anyway the card with all switches disabled takes around 1.25V (I'm going to verify this), I don't know any way to have 1.212 real...

When I was on air with I used the classy controller thats stock at 1.15v and I undervolted my card so it was about 1.2 volts load. My ambient temps were pretty high in my garage where my rig is pieced together for benching ln2 and before I mounted a cpu waterblock on my kingpin card temps would reach 70c while gaming which wasnt ok by me at all. I like to stay under 70c just my opinion though. 1.25v on air isnt crazy or anything but if it only gets you a couple 13mhz bins though might not be worth it. Everyone will have a different opinion we just want to keep everyones card safe and only the end user can ultimately decide what is safe for them.
post #3427 of 8148
Understood, thank for your explanation smile.gif Anyway I tried with one switch enabled and the voltage raised to 1.25V. It's strange because each switch should add only 25mV..

Both Switch OFF
Voltage = 1.218V

1 Switch ON
Voltage = 1.25V

Both Switch ON
Voltage = 1.30V
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post #3428 of 8148
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreTM View Post

Understood, thank for your explanation smile.gif Anyway I tried with one switch enabled and the voltage raised to 1.25V. It's strange because each switch should add only 25mV..

Both Switch OFF
Voltage = 1.218V

1 Switch ON
Voltage = 1.25V

Both Switch ON
Voltage = 1.30V

Voltage will go up under load. Try running firestrike or 3dmark11 and see how high the voltage actually goes using different setting. The +25mv isnt exact because these cards over compensate for vdroop by raising the voltage so have to play around some with setting and using meter to read volts. I leave my pwm freq at 400 by the way.
post #3429 of 8148
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreTM View Post

I used a DMM

1280Mhz (1283 in GPU-Z)
No Classy Voltage Tuner
2x +25mV Switches ON
+63mV from Precision X

Real voltage: 1.31V
Max temps 60/65 °C


1306Mhz (1323 in GPU-Z)
Classy Voltage Tuner: 1.21250V
2x +25mV Switches ON
+0mV from Precision X

Real voltage: 1.36V
Max temps 70/75 °C

Are both safe for 24/7? Thanks.

honestly while both MAY be safe, look at it this way, is it worth running the card 10 degrees hotter and 0.5v higher for just 26 mhz higher core clock? that MIGHT translate to 1 fps in high end games and will cut the life of the card down for sure. benching is another story, having the card at a higher voltage for a short benchmark run shouldnt cut the cards life down
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post #3430 of 8148
Quote:
Originally Posted by vlps5122 View Post

honestly while both MAY be safe, look at it this way, is it worth running the card 10 degrees hotter and 0.5v higher for just 26 mhz higher core clock? that MIGHT translate to 1 fps in high end games and will cut the life of the card down for sure. benching is another story, having the card at a higher voltage for a short benchmark run shouldnt cut the cards life down

Yes you're right, anyway I need those voltages only in two games that I tried:
- Shadow Warrior
- Tomb Raider

Crysis 3, Metro LL, Splinter Cell BL, etc.. requires me less voltage.

Anyway thanks a lot for your help guys!
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