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Monsoon hardline compression fittings for rigid acrylic - Page 36

post #351 of 361
As far as I know it really shouldn't have. UV light penetrates cloud much better than visible light.
In Australia they warn us that we can still get sunburnt on an overcast day.
Could be wrong, maybe if it comes down to the different UV types.

Speaking of UV. This isn't really related but there is a great ad on TV here from people selling what they call a plastic welding stick. It's just a tube of UV activated glue with a UV LED on the back of it. Anyway, in the add they show a test of it's strength by gluing things together and using it to tow a truck, but they apply the goop and use the UV LED while the whole time they are outside in direct sunlight. smile.gif
Edited by Ashcroft - 1/19/17 at 5:53pm
post #352 of 361
I have uv sensitive beads and they told me the sun was strong enough yesterday (the kind you can use to make a bracelet from for your kid, so you know when the sun is strong enough to require covering up the skin.)

I reapplied the adhesive today and left the tube by the window. (The thing I hate most about winter is the fact that you only see the sun during your lunch break biggrin.gif )



So, what's it with some going yellow and others not?
post #353 of 361
For what it's worth, I had to cure my tubes on two different days because I messed up on one on the first attempt and had to redo it. The first day, the sun was out in full force - clear skies. Those tubes were bonded solidly to their collars in ~10 mins.

The second day was overcast and after 30 minutes it still didn't seem like they were fully cured (slight runoff on the tube still felt maleable). I used a hand-held UV light for a few hours while I worked on other stuff and that seemed to finish up the work.

I've also always heard UV light is not largely affected by cloud cover, but my experience with this adhesive would indicate clear skies are best for curing.

As far as the yellowing, my collars did turn slightly opaque/cloudy after the glue cured. It's not all that noticeable, and certainly not yellow. Maybe I'm just color blind? biggrin.gif
post #354 of 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dagamus NM View Post

I bought a cheap chinese UV light for dental work, whenever I get around to trying a hardline build I will use this stuff.

I use a cheap uv light for curing nail polish. It sits in a neon pink box and I never hear the end of the "so when did you become a beautician" jokes. Still, totally worth it!

Per the yellowing comment, I haven't had any cures come out yellow, I will try some sunlight curing tests and see what results I get from the depressing levels of sunlight we get here in the uk tongue.gif
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post #355 of 361
Hey everyone!


So... I've had a set of these compression fittings, however, I've never gotten around to using them in fear of the cracked collars that seem to be plaguing lots of other users.

Has anyone got any advice or any tips on how to avoid such a disaster?
post #356 of 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fliptrocity View Post

Hey everyone!


So... I've had a set of these compression fittings, however, I've never gotten around to using them in fear of the cracked collars that seem to be plaguing lots of other users.

Has anyone got any advice or any tips on how to avoid such a disaster?
The original ones were acrylic and that is where the crack issues came from. They switched to what I believe is Polycarbonate a long time ago... Year+ easily. In either event if you look at the "new from Monsoon thread the guy Boxgods is one of the owners of Monsoon and can tell you when that was for sure.
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post #357 of 361
Can anyone recommend an adhesive that will work on PETG tubing?

I have everything I need to start building this loop, except an adhesive. I cannot find one that is confirmed to work on PETG tubing, and for some reason the Performance PC's website will not work for me. I click "add to cart" and the website refuses to respond or do anything (and takes forever and a half to actually load).
post #358 of 361
Take the one from Monsoon. It's a uv curing adhesive, so you'll need to expose it to uv light.
post #359 of 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fliptrocity View Post

Has anyone got any advice or any tips on how to avoid such a disaster?

Accuracy is probably the best tip.
Acrylic is brittle so you can't put too much stress on it, either on tube or on the collars. - there is no real flex in the material so you can't "pull" on it if the length is just slightly out. Where a PET tube might have just enough flex in a bend to "give" as you pull it into place acrylic will just crack. acrylic just really doesn't like rotational or bending forces.
The same therefore applies to the acrylic variant of the locking collar. It really needs to be flat on to the screw in part it presses up against. I think many that experience early collar issues were basically pulling components together through the collars and pipe because their measurement or angles were imperfect.
(Imagine a collar meeting the screw in/gasket part with a fraction of a mm difference left and right, as you screw tight to seal the right side you are simultaneously crushing the left.

If you have acrylic tube and collars that you still want to use I would probably recommend using them in the easier/low stress connections. - if you can use them for simple, straight connections, especially between components that you may be able to shift slightly to compensate for imperfect measuring/cutting etc then you ought to be ok. (For double security if these are in the bottom of the case even better.)

I basically "suspended" a dual d5 ek pump top (+the two pumps) between a photon 270 Res and my first rad with monsoon acrylic. My longer term plan had been to secure the pumps/top but as it all worked I never bothered. One of those tubes eventually failed because I was lifting the case to a 45degree angle when emptying for a refill and the complex (4 bend) tube between pumps and rad developed a hairline fracture because the weight of the pumps etc when they shifted during this process. The locking collars were all fine though! (To be honest I'm gutted about that bend. It was my best one and the most complex in the entire build. - and as is often the way with these things I had been thinking just a moment before lifting the case that I should just get a towel, undo that connection and accept that the last few drops of coolant probably would have to spill out onto the desk.

I still have acrylic pipe and will indeed use it in my next build (it's a nicer finish, especially the black) but I will keep the geometry simple and have planned to use the more flexible polycarb for any parts which aren't visible and may need to flex a bit. Oh...and this time I will secure the heavy components before the build is properly finished.
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post #360 of 361
I'm brand new to water cooling. It will be ambitious, but I plan on doing my very first build with hard tubing. I love the looks of these Monsoon compression fittings and would like to use them. But ultimately reliable function with no leaks is more important than looks. Here are several concerns. Please comment if you can reassure or dissuade me.

1. I see the plastic collars have been switched to polycarbonate from the original acrylic. This makes sense to minimize cracking. But does the Monsoon UV glue bond disimilar plastics well? Perhaps the UV glue is different than a solvent based system, but I would have thought it would be better to bond PETG to PETG, acrylic to acrylic, etc. I"m not sure why the new collars aren't made from PETG. Does anyone actually use polycarbonate for hard tubing in PC cooling?

2. If I understand the design of these fittings, leak proof relies entirely upon the the flat collar end meeting squarely with the single flat O ring. The collar then pulls the tube and collar against this O ring when you tighten the compression. Are people actually able to bend and cut the tubing with such accuracy that the collar ends actually match up dead center with no angulation at both ends of the run? It seems to me that if your tube alignment was off by only a very small amount and you easily moved the PETG tube to line up the fitting, that you've introduced some slight angulation between the collar base and the O ring. Wouldn't this leak or is the O ring soft enough to absorb minimal angulation?

3. Other brands have one or more push fit O rings that hug the outside of the tube, plus an additional O ring that gets compressed against the tube. Barrow v4 fittings for example have a total of 4 O rings touching the outside of the tube. They don't look nearly as cool, but common sense might imply that this design would be safer. Any thoughts? Does the single flat O ring of the Monsoons do the job reliably?

4. One poster mentioned the glued on collar or glue turning yellow after exposing it to sun light. Is this the norm? After all, we're hoping for beauty with these fittings.

5. Finally, apparently these 5/8" fittings only really fit properly with the slightly undersized Monsoon 5/8" PETG. I don't like the idea that 5/8" isn't truly 5/8" when measured with calipers, but has this caused any problems with other components in your loop? Is it absolutely true that I shouldn't buy another brand of 5/8" tubing?

Thanks for your help!
Edited by XrayDoc88 - 6/5/17 at 11:03am
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