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Monsoon hardline compression fittings for rigid acrylic - Page 8

post #71 of 361
I used Monsoon tubing, collars, fittings, tube bending kit and UV glue/epoxy.

I let the epoxy cure for a couple hours for each fitting.

As much UV as the sun in Tuscany, Italy puts out.

"Minute amount of heat-distortion"....I don't even know what that means. As in, the collar, which is located under the fitting, may have been heated up? Well sure it was, it's in a watercooling rig, so of course there will be heat.
post #72 of 361
I think that it is the pressure of the water creating the cracks, not the heat. I say this because if your pump speed increases with the temps, then the pressure or 'head pressure' increases. I am running my pumps at 24V, which is the max at over 5,000 RPM. This is roughly 11 gallons of water a minute, which is a rediculus amount, but the head pressure at those speeds increases dramatically. If you are using the PEBT or whatever the acronym is, from Primochill, then it is much softer, leaving plenty of room for expansion.

Just my two cents. Garbage none the less. And yes, if Monsoon bothered to actually test these, other than their stupid little video with the barbell, this would have been obvious. They know they screwed up, and hopefully these lose a bunch of good customers like us as a result. Not responding to email? How disrespectful. Reminds me of the service I got from Sapphire, like you are bothering them or something.
post #73 of 361
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's a closed system, so the PSI doesn't increase no matter how much the flow rate increases. The speed at which the water moves through the system increases, but I don't think that means PSI increases.
post #74 of 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by loki_racer View Post

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's a closed system, so the PSI doesn't increase no matter how much the flow rate increases. The speed at which the water moves through the system increases, but I don't think that means PSI increases.

How much pressure there is is dependent on the capabilities of the pump and the amount of restriction. The more restriction the loop has, the more pressure there will be. That's how they measure the maximum head pressure a pump has, by restricting flow all the way until there is zero flow.

edit: example:


Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/2/15 at 4:00pm
post #75 of 361
Thread Starter 
I don't think it's the
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEEDLINE View Post

I think that it is the pressure of the water creating the cracks, not the heat.

I don't think it's related to the pressure of the water. I kept my pump speed at a constant 1250 RPM, the lowest it'll go.
post #76 of 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranma13 View Post

I don't think it's the
I don't think it's related to the pressure of the water. I kept my pump speed at a constant 1250 RPM, the lowest it'll go.

This talk about pressure is nonsense. That's not what's causing the failure of these products. It's an issue with the UV adhesive, possibly contracting too much and causing these cracks. And BTW it doesn't take hours to cure, just a minute or two at most in the Sun. rolleyes.gif I even cured mine the last time on a cloudy day for about 15 minutes. No leaks since then, but it's a matter of time until it does fail again.
post #77 of 361
So for the glue offered by monsoon, are they the same as the touch screen LOCAs? After curing, will they weaken/melt at like 120degC? Is there any alternatives to this glue? Is it possible to weld the acrylics together directly?
This fitting seems to solely depend on the water tight seal between the tubing and the acrylic collar, so once the glue goes denatured, the thing will leak. For the O-ring compression fittings for acrylic tubings, at least the sealing is ensured by 3 rubber rings. I feel like using a mix of acrylic(for cleaner look when tubing have to go a long way and bend a lot) and PVC(for natural bends) tubings, but if I used other sort of fittings for acrylic tubing the look will not match with the monsoon compression fittings O.o
Edited by dennis97519 - 1/10/15 at 12:15am
post #78 of 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by seross69 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEEDLINE View Post

I really did want to use these connectors, and I gave them some reasonable time and effort, but in the end these are absolute garbage. The entire design is flawed, and anyone that would take the chance of using these in their system is asking for trouble. These simply do not work as intended, tube size, the manufacturing process, whatever. There are so many points of failure, from the tube size, to the cap cracking, to the glue holding (without air bubbles), to the o-ring connecting the tube to the base, then the o-ring between the connector and the component.
These are described as compression, but there is no compression. There is glue, period. Glue is the only thing keeping the water from destroying your machine.
I am just speaking from my honest experience, I would not buy these, and I suspect they will not be around long. They do make a way to convert them to traditional flexible tube, so at least it isn't a complete wash for those that really like the look as we did.

I sincerely hope this info helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT-Maverick View Post

The sun isn't coming out for a week here (snow and clouds). How on earth do I cure the UV-activated adhesive? I'm not going to buy a UV-Curing gun...

Use this and it will not come apart I love them and they work so good check out the last page of my log..




Yup I've got that for curing touch screen LOCA. Should be good for UV activated PCB mask also tongue.gif But I've never done any PCB design yet.

Also nice workshop smile.gif what's your profession?
Edited by dennis97519 - 1/10/15 at 8:50pm
post #79 of 361
I'm already invested in Monsoon hardline for a current build and just found this thread. Having invested the money already I am going to go ahead try them. I've ordered a uv lamp similar to Seross' to ensure the glue cures well.

I've noticed a couple of things with the product and wanted to ask some questions so I am absolutely doing this right from collar #1.

Here's what one 'fitting set' looks like in the packs I received:



Compression ring - self explanatory. I can see that the compression is only down into the g1/4 fitting via the collar rather than down and around the g1/4 fitting as in a soft tube setting. It's obvious to me now why the collar is so critical and failure of the collar to any degree results in total failure of the fitting.

Lock collar - two questions on this. Is the flat washer inside the collar just a spare? The videos don't show any washer used inside the collar. I noticed that the spare collar packs also come with this extra flat washer.

The other question on the lock collar - there appears to be a degree of play between the collar and the tubing (just putting them together - no glue). I'm using Monsoon hardline tubing. Is this the same experience others have had? It seems like it would be easy to accidentally glue the collar and tube with a minute offset, an offset that would be enough to cause either an immediate leak, a slow leak or an eventual catastrophic failure of the fitting, like I have seen in this thread.

G1/4 fitting - I see there are two sets of round washers included, I assume I pick a colour and use just one on the G1/4 end?
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Midnight Express
(33 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
5930K Asus X99 Deluxe Galax GTX980 HOF Galax GTX980 HOF 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB DDR4 Quad kit Plextor M6e 256Gb PCIe M.2 SSD Samsung Pro 850 SSD 1TB Western Digital Green 6TB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool NeXXos UT60 White Edition Aqua Computer Laing D5 pump with usb and aquabus Aqua Computer Laing D5 pump with usb and aquabus Bitspower Dual D5 Mod Top 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy EVO Red Acrylic Monsoon Hardlock fittings matte white Bitspower D5 Pump Mod Kit Abrasive Red Bitspower D5 Pump Mod Kit Abrasive Red 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 White Edition Alphacool NeXXos UT60 White Edition Alphacool NeXXos UT60 White Edition 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Primochill CTR Phase II 120mm Reservoir Blood R... Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 Pro Windows 8.1 Dell Ultrasharp 3008WFP 30" Widescreen LCD Moni... 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Dell U2412M IPS LED Monitor Dell U2412M IPS LED Monitor MS Sidewinder X6 Corsair AX1500i 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Caselabs Mercury S8 with pedestal and custom tw... Razer Deathadder Razer Goliathus Dragonfly DAC 
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post #80 of 361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbz View Post

I've noticed a couple of things with the product and wanted to ask some questions so I am absolutely doing this right from collar #1.
I'll see what I can answer.
Quote:
Is the flat washer inside the collar just a spare?
I believe it's a spare. They don't attach as well as the O-ring does, so the flat washer falls off easily and can roll somewhere where you lose it, so I think it was included for this reason.
Quote:
The other question on the lock collar - there appears to be a degree of play between the collar and the tubing (just putting them together - no glue). I'm using Monsoon hardline tubing. Is this the same experience others have had?
Yes, it's loose and not tight. If you try other tubing like the Primochill tubing, the lock collar will fit on very tightly, but then you run into the issue of the tubing cracking due to the stress.
Quote:
It seems like it would be easy to accidentally glue the collar and tube with a minute offset, an offset that would be enough to cause either an immediate leak, a slow leak or an eventual catastrophic failure of the fitting, like I have seen in this thread.
Yes, that's exactly what happened to me. What I did was I applied glue and slipped it onto the tubing, then spun it around to see if any gaps appear in the glue. Chances are you have to do this a few times until it completely fills up. It'll feel like you're putting on a ton of glue, way over how much it feels like you need, but it's required to fill in the large gap between the tubing and the collar.
Quote:
G1/4 fitting - I see there are two sets of round washers included, I assume I pick a colour and use just one on the G1/4 end?
Yep, just use one O-ring of whichever color you want.

Some other advice: use the included tool (spade side) to tighten down the G1/4 fitting, but don't use the other side of the tool (the prong side) to tighten down the locking 'receptacle' (the leftmost white thing in your picture). Just finger tighten it. This is because you should be able to get it more than tight enough with just your fingers, and the tool slips too easily, which can scratch your tubing. It will also strip the paint off the white locking receptacle and make it look uglier.

If you're looking for an alternative glue that doesn't become malleable with heat, you can look into getting some acrylic glue, the kind that actually bonds the acrylic together by melting it rather than simply gluing it together. Also look out for your lock collars cracking. You'll probably want to check every few days, especially after long gaming marathons, as the large temperature changes will stress the lock collars and glue.

Another option is to look at the Monsoon economy hardline fittings, which is a simple compression fitting like the Primochill fittings, instead of using lock collars.
Edited by Ranma13 - 1/13/15 at 2:17am
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