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Rosewill Legacy MX-2 - Page 2

post #11 of 36
here are the temps. not the coolest thing out there but totally workable.

mx2temps.png

CPU idles at 34C. GPU seems to "idle" at 52C. CPU gets up to 70C or so under max combined load, GPU gets to 80 and the clock throttles very slightly keeping it there.

don't have a sound meter but using app on ipad shows an "ambient" noise level of 42DB, 45DB for the full CPU load, and 46DB for the combined load. may not be meaningful.
post #12 of 36
sfmthd, first off, your drawing are too good. What are you using? Are they "to scale"?

I ways imagined bottom and top fans to be intake and the 80mm ones as exhaust. If you have time, try that. I think that would be the best config for both CPU and GPU temps.

By the way, PSU airflow as shown is wrong. It would take air from inside the case and exhaust from the bottom.

Thanks for the measurement. So, yeah, Nepton will fit, yay!

If you can find out the type of screws, it may help you too. You can do this with an open-frame fan, which is my plan too:

1) Install the fan on the rad using short 6-32 screws using a thin screwdriver through the fan frame. Need to buy those short pan-head 6-32 screws.

2) Install the fan-rad assembly to the top, using short thumbscrews, of course with matching threads, through the fan frame. You can find short 6-32 pr M3 thumbscrews easily.

It's kind of a hassle but it would definitely work, without having to rely on McGyvering smile.gif
post #13 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by theGryphon View Post

sfmthd, first off, your drawing are too good. What are you using? Are they "to scale"?

I ways imagined bottom and top fans to be intake and the 80mm ones as exhaust. If you have time, try that. I think that would be the best config for both CPU and GPU temps.

By the way, PSU airflow as shown is wrong. It would take air from inside the case and exhaust from the bottom.

Thanks for the measurement. So, yeah, Nepton will fit, yay!

If you can find out the type of screws, it may help you too. You can do this with an open-frame fan, which is my plan too:

1) Install the fan on the rad using short 6-32 screws using a thin screwdriver through the fan frame. Need to buy those short pan-head 6-32 screws.

2) Install the fan-rad assembly to the top, using short thumbscrews, of course with matching threads, through the fan frame. You can find short 6-32 pr M3 thumbscrews easily.

It's kind of a hassle but it would definitely work, without having to rely on McGyvering smile.gif

very interesting. I didn't see any way to get a screwdriver through the rad... or to get a screw through the frame with the head between the frame and the fins. i'll look again!

in at the top and bottom and out at the back seems good - but I was worried those two 80mm fans wouldn't be sufficient (maybe *too much* positive pressure?) and also that there wouldn't be any cool air for the VRM and other mobo components. I guess the temperature increase across the radiator isn't actually that big?

the PSU is turned, with the cables coming out the top. is it still wrong?

drawings are simple autocad. they are drawn to scale, plus or minus a few mm. wink.gif
post #14 of 36
No, no, not through the rad. You're gonna install the fan on the rad with short screws, instead of the supplied long screws that run through the whole thickness of the fan. The short screw is just gonna run through one face of the fan, and that's why you need an open-frame fan for this. Most fans are open frame but there are closed frame ones too.

Well, if you use this case for 100% CPU and GPU loading for 24/7 for months, it would probably heat up in there. But for normal loads, heat wouldn't build up and positive pressure is always better. Well, I guess almost always.

Yeah, the PSU would always exhaust air from its back, unless you open it and reverse the fan wink.gif
post #15 of 36
I figured that out looking at pictures of fans. mine are all closed frame! it would definitely be doable as you describe. I might just use a very small removable screwdriver bit, tighten by hand, and then use pliers to turn the bit until fully seated. looks like the mobo is coming out again. lol.
post #16 of 36
Yeah, that would work too.

Just don't forget to let us know the type of screw they're using there smile.gif
post #17 of 36
so I've been experimenting with this a bit.

irritated by the noise of the H90, but not quite ready to do a custom loop for $500 with unpredictable results due to lack of rad space, i decided to try an air cooler on the CPU.

the space from the surface of the motherboard to the inside face of the aluminum side panel (which is flat) is 162mm. the top of the IHS is 8mm above the surface of the motherboard, so 154mm is available for a heatsink. a lot of the tower style coolers are 160+, so that won't work. rather than go with a 92mm fan based tower cooler, i gave the horizontal type a shot - the noctua nh-c14. it fits fine:



i tried it first with one fan - the one between the motherboard and the heatsink, as shown in the photo. it did not perform well. CPU temps of almost 85C under combined cudaminer and prime95 loads. added the second fan, which has only about 20mm between it and the case side panel, and the results are better, but definitely *not* as good as the 140mm AIO liquid cooler.

20140420results.png

tried reversing the intake and exhaust on the two rear and two bottom fans. not good - the GPU throttles significantly more.

the good news about this configuration is that the CPU and GPU temps don't affect each other too much. i think the two 80mm fans at the rear in intake mode are a big part of that - the air passing through/around the big CPU heatsink obviously gets heated, but is then mixed with outside air before getting sucked into the GPU. I'm surprised that switching the bottom two 120mm fans to intake didn't improve the GPU performance - in fact it made it much worse.
Edited by sfmthd - 4/20/14 at 6:05pm
post #18 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by theGryphon View Post

Yeah, that would work too.

Just don't forget to let us know the type of screw they're using there smile.gif

here's one of the screws from the top. apologies for the crappy photos. didn't bother busting out the cameras.

topScrew-s.jpg

these go from the inside of the case, through the fan, and into short standoffs welded to the inside surface of the case. obviously there isn't a hole in the top of case, so the length has to be less than the thickness of the fan. the reason it isn't closer to 25mm is the standoff. I'm actually not sure if the standoff is thicker than the frame of an open corner case fan. if it is, the method we discussed above wouldn't work because the short screw attaching the fan/rad assembly to the case wouldn't put any force in. it would keep it from falling out, i suppose, but not hold it tight.

it's an M3 standard pitch screw with a flat Phillips head.
post #19 of 36
Hey man, thanks!
Did you ever measure how long the stand-offs on the top are?
Also, are the bottom fans attached on stand-offs too?
post #20 of 36
I love the look of this case. Very nice choice! Keep the info coming if you make changes!
   
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Sith Lord
(8 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 6700k Asus z170 Pro Gaming Aura Asus Strix GTX 1080 AURA 16GB Adata XPG DDR4-3000 
Hard DriveCoolingMonitorKeyboard
Adata 480 gb ssd Asetek 550lc LG 34 inch Ultrawide Corsair k65 
PowerCaseMouse
EVGA G2 650 Phanteks enthoo luxe Steelseries RIval 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i5 3750k ASRock z77 Extreme 4 gtx 780 8gb AVEXIR 1886 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Corsair Nuetron GTX Wester Digital Green 1tb Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Windows 7 64 bit 
MonitorPowerCaseOther
Shimain Achieva 27' 2560x1440 IPS display KingWin 850w 80 platinum Corsair 540 Air 1000w Automatic Voltage Regulator 
OtherOther
tp-link 3 x Phanteks F-140TS 140mm Fans (white) 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Xeon e3 1231 v3 MSI z97s Krait Edition EVGA GTX 780 ACX2.0 Team Elite Plus 8 GB 
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Sandisk 480 gb ssd Be Quiet shadow lp EVGA 700b NZXT S340 Elite 
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