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[Official] EVGA Hadron Air Owners Club - Page 222

post #2211 of 2261
I need to get a 3D printer so I can custom things like that. Might have to get a friend to print that out for me
post #2212 of 2261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyburner View Post

I finally got myself together and posted my build. You can find the post here: [Build] - Hadron Air - Night Shift

Here are some of the MVPics. Enjoy!

[IMG]

Just out of curiosity, how did you get a faceplate like that? is that just custom drilling of holes? or did you send it out somewhere?

Also, I haven't been able to find any info on this, but how do you remove the top panel from the Hadron? Is there screws somewhere to remove that? or do you have to drill out the rivets on the back side?
post #2213 of 2261
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky1_2007 View Post

Just out of curiosity, how did you get a faceplate like that? is that just custom drilling of holes? or did you send it out somewhere?

Also, I haven't been able to find any info on this, but how do you remove the top panel from the Hadron? Is there screws somewhere to remove that? or do you have to drill out the rivets on the back side?

I removed the existing Hadron face plate and drilled holes with a mechanical CNC. There are some options for DIY drilling, but you need to be very careful as the stock face plate is about 3mm thin. Sandwiching the face plate between rigid materials is a good idea to prevent tear out.

The top panel can be removed by pulling the three screws on the rear of the case, and sliding the panel backwards.
post #2214 of 2261
Quote:
Originally Posted by azagar View Post

I had my faceplate design laser cut by Ponoko.


Azagar posted his solution for ordering a fresh-cut face plate. I dig it!
post #2215 of 2261
I can email you the file if you like, can customize it how you like for personal preference. I've even updated the file for use with a 22mm vandal switch instead of the stock power switch which I currently use.
post #2216 of 2261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyburner View Post

I removed the existing Hadron face plate and drilled holes with a mechanical CNC. There are some options for DIY drilling, but you need to be very careful as the stock face plate is about 3mm thin. Sandwiching the face plate between rigid materials is a good idea to prevent tear out.

The top panel can be removed by pulling the three screws on the rear of the case, and sliding the panel backwards.

Perfect, thank you so much.

What would you recommend sandwiching it between? simple plywood? or is there a specific material that you used?
post #2217 of 2261
Quote:
Originally Posted by azagar View Post

I can email you the file if you like, can customize it how you like for personal preference. I've even updated the file for use with a 22mm vandal switch instead of the stock power switch which I currently use.

Yeah, if you could do that, that would be awesome! I'll PM you my email address
post #2218 of 2261
I used thin layers of MDF for both the mock-up phase and sandwiching during the final pass.
post #2219 of 2261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus45 View Post

Could you be so kind to show the back of the mobo installed with the m.2 drive, saw the tiny space and I was wondering if it fits.
Thanks,

I don't have the Z170i PRO, but I do have the Z170N-Gaming 5 with an M.2 installed. The M.2 positioning is very similar on both boards.

ASUS Z170i PRO


Gigabyte Z170N-Gaming 5


The M.2 installed on the Gigabyte board, inside the Hadron
post #2220 of 2261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyburner View Post

I don't have the Z170i PRO, but I do have the Z170N-Gaming 5 with an M.2 installed. The M.2 positioning is very similar on both boards.

Thanks, I will get the m.2 drive
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