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Silverstone Raven RVZ01 / RVZ02 / ML07 / ML08 / FTZ01 Owners Club - Page 687

post #6861 of 6930
Quote:
Originally Posted by antilles View Post

What about the EVGA SC or SSC? They're significantly cheaper than the FTW where I am, but you should still get the EVGA quality/warranty benefits.

You need a fan on the CPU vent because otherwise there is no pressure differential and the heat generated by all the motherboard components will just collect. A cooler shorter than 58mm lets you use a full size fan, and shorter than 70mm lets you use most low profile fans. PWM is superior for noise, voltage control works but it's much more hit and miss. Should be fine if you have a good mobo I suppose.

Thanks very much for the GPU inputs! Where i leave EVGA pricing is just really weird. The FTW+ is actually cheaper than some other EVGA models... In the end i might as well buy the card from ebay. I have a sense though that i will be paying a price premium for EVGA, and i do not know if it is worth it (only had ASUS cards before).

Another thing to note is this excellent input from Broadmonkey:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadmonkey View Post

One thing to note, is that the MSI cooler has the heat fins laid out horizontally. That means the air will get pushed out back of the case and to the front. It creates a pocket of hot air, that can't easily escape. When I put my hand to the fan nearest the back of the case, I can only feel cold fresh air coming in. At the fan on the front, it's a mix of both fresh air and hot air being recirculated from inside the case.
So I think a card like the Asus ROG might be a better card, as its fins goes vertically. It would push the air to the top of the case, where there is a lot of ventilation. Just a thought.
I got the MSI for cheap though, so no regrets.

I might have to rethink my card selection eventually (the EVGA has vertical fins, but it is not the only one).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton Noway View Post

My video card selection may or may not apply to your requirements. In addition to some serious gaming I also use my PC to watch movies on a LG OLED 65" TV. At the time I built my gaming rig the only premium GeForce choices were the GTX960, 970 and 980. The 970 and 980 cost more but I selected the GeForce EVGA GTX 960 4GB SSC because it had the GM206 chip and supported HDCP 2.2 content protection over HDMI "and" because (in addition to the 2.0 HDMI port) it also has DisplayPort 1.2 as well as support for H.265 encoding and decoding. These were all important features to me for taking advantage of watching 4K movies and 4K Youtube videos on my TV via my PC. The 970 and 980 only supported H.265

No worry about the fans not being PWM controlled. Most newer motherboards (mine included) allow for using BIOS voltage to control fan speed instead.

You intended build looks solid. Unfortunately I'm not up to speed on the GTX 1060. Remember, when I built mine I was looking for a dual purpose card (gaming and movies) so my selection criteria may not apply. Problem is.. after gaming on a 65" it kills me to go back to my 24" monitor.

All that being said... I built my rig over a year ago. In the world of computer hardware technology changes super fast. What was cutting edge 90 days ago can be yesterdays hardware. Fortunately with the hardware I selected, and some overclocking... I can still keep up with the best of them! And... I'm still amazed at having 11 seconds from cold boot to gaming thanks to my SSD) Anyway... at the time I did a "ton" of research, read all the articles I could find etc etc. One of the best coolers for the RVZ01, FTZ01 or ML07 was the Cryorig C1 CPU cooler using a 25mm x 140 mm fan. It has 120mm mounting holes and mounts on the case cover opposite the cooler. Anyway... for more specifics on my build and the components and hardware used... as well as some neat modifications I made... just click on the two links in my signature (Skylake Milo Project) to see the component listing and some photos..

Just FYI: You probably already know this... but just in case you weren't aware, the RVZ01, FTZ01 and the ML07 are "identical cases internally"... only the exterior design is different. So... any build tips, fans, coolers etc you read about on the FTZ01 or ML07 will apply to the RVZ01.

Thanks again for the informative answer Elton Noway! Concerning the GPU i will have to rethink the possibilities (as stated above).

I just want to make clear my view on the CPU cooler so you guys can help me understand if what i think is viable or not.
Let's take the Cryorig C1 for example:

The cooler except for its normal duty which is to keep the CPU cool, it also cools the RAM, and a large portion of the mini-ITX board.

The BeQuiet! Shadow Rock LP is another example:


The Raijintek Pallas a third one:


The way i think it, a cooler like the above can take fresh air directly from the opening above it and cool except for the CPU, a large part of the motherboard and RAM. Problem is that if it is not possible to install the CPU cooler at the appropriate orientation inside the RVZ01, i can't achieve what i have in mind.
So my first question is: Is any of the above setups possible in the RVZ01? I have not yet finished my search on CPU coolers, but i doubt there will be many more with the above specs.
Second question: Is any of the above setups going to be effective, or the benefits are just in my mind?biggrin.gif
Third question: If the above configurations are viable for the particular case, do you know of a cooler more appropriate than the ones mentioned?

I thank you so much guys for your helpful answers! You have been most helpful so far!
Thanks in advance!
Hector
post #6862 of 6930
The Cryorig and the Pallas are more or less the best coolers that fit in this case. The issue they have is with compatibility with motherboards, with the C1 having more issues I believe. I was just about to buy the Pallas when I saw here that it didn't work with my Asus Z270i (even though Pcpartpicker said it did). If you search for Pallas and C1 in this thread, someone listed which brands they're compatible with.

As for other coolers, along with maybe the majority here I use the Scythe Big Shuriken 2. It has very few compatibility issues while still being pretty effective. The Shadow Rock LP is quieter (that's its specialty) but not as effective at heat dissipation. The Noctua NH-L12 can fit with a low profile fan. The Silverstone NT-06 is designed for this case: at 82mm tall it pulls air in directly with no other fan running in series, like the Shuriken or Pallas need, but I think overall quality is lower than the other ones.

You can also put a 140mm fan like the Raijintek one on both the case vent and most (?) coolers, but I'm not sure how much tangible benefit you would see.
post #6863 of 6930
Quote:
Originally Posted by general molotof View Post

I just want to make clear my view on the CPU cooler so you guys can help me understand if what i think is viable or not.

Let's take the Cryorig C1 for example: The BeQuiet! Shadow Rock LP is another example: The Raijintek Pallas a third one:
KAuZc96.jpg

The way i think it, a cooler like the above can take fresh air directly from the opening above it and cool except for the CPU, a large part of the motherboard and RAM. Problem is that if it is not possible to install the CPU cooler at the appropriate orientation inside the RVZ01, i can't achieve what i have in mind.
So my first question is: Is any of the above setups possible in the RVZ01? I have not yet finished my search on CPU coolers, but i doubt there will be many more with the above specs.
You are correct in how you are thinking about this. FACT: it all depends on your final motherboard selection. IMPORTANT - The motherboard "design layout" is every bit as important as the cooler or memory selection. Depending on the motherboard design... the location of the CPU and or GPU slots can make your memory choice or cooler selection incompatible. For example, based on the orientation of the CPU slot, the cooler you select might cover the memory slots making low profile memory a must. Or the cooler might extend over the GPU slot making installation of the GPU card impossible. eek.gif That said, in an earlier post you mentioned you were looking at getting the Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI... if thats the case, comparing component location between your selected board and the one I used make the component locations for CPU, GPU and memory look identical.

I agonized over getting the correct motherboard... for both the specs I wanted as well as being able to fit it in the case and being able to find components that would work with it. Motherboard orientation when installed and its component layout are very important factors to consider. You can see evidence of worry in this older RVZ01 thread
So... after looking through this forum, and speaking from experience seeing that my motherboard layout resembles yours, I'd say "Yes" the Cryorig C1 will work with your motherboard in the RVZ01. Remember the RVZ01 is identical internally to the ML07 and FTZ01.

Personally... I didn't want to risk buying expensive components etc, only to find out they wouldn't work, then have to hassle trying to return them. I decided to take advantage of other forum members by looking at multiple builds that used the motherboard I selected. I then created a list of all the most commonly used components chosen by members. Using this method... I did a search on your motherboard in this forum. So, if you compare all the successful builds you find with your motherboard used in any one of these three cases RVZ01,FTZ01,ML07 - it will guarantee you will have a near painless build providing you choose the same components, or a mix of the same. (near painless... other than going crazy trying to cram everything into such a small case with a big honking heatsink in the way)
Quote:
Originally Posted by general molotof View Post

Second question: Is any of the above setups going to be effective, or the benefits are just in my mind? biggrin.gif
Effective?... from an air cooled standpoint... the answer is yes. The benefits are you mention are there with all three coolers. At this point in the process the primary concern will heatsink selection should be: Will the protruding design of coolers heatpipes limit the desired orientation on the board? Is the height of the cooler sufficient for installation of the memory DIMMS? Will the heatsink overhang the GPU slot? Will the installed height of the cooler be too tall for the case? etc... you should be safe with any of the tree you selected, but ideally, finding a member build in this forum with your motherboard and one of these coolers will save you a lot of stress and aggravation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by general molotof View Post

Third question: If the above configurations are viable for the particular case, do you know of a cooler more appropriate than the ones mentioned?
The only configuration that would be more effective would be to consider liquid cooling ... and that introduces a whole new can of worms.
   
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Intel Core i5-6600K 6M Skylake Quad-Core 3.5 GH... ASRock Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac LGA 1151 Intel Z170 M... EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SSC GAMING ACX 2.0+ 04... Kingston HyperX FURY Black 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 213... 
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post #6864 of 6930
Hello guys.

Has anybody ever tried drilling into the plastic front of the RVZ02 / ML08?

I wanna see if I can make something like a dot pattern, but I'm not sure what the material's reaction will be - worst case is it crumbles or deforms somehow.
post #6865 of 6930
Quote:
Originally Posted by zackfalcon View Post

Hello guys.

Has anybody ever tried drilling into the plastic front of the RVZ02 / ML08?

I wanna see if I can make something like a dot pattern, but I'm not sure what the material's reaction will be - worst case is it crumbles or deforms somehow.
Yep... no problem, the plastic used in these Silverstone cases is quite durable. HOWEVER... there's a right way and a wrong way to drill the case (or any plastic) It's all about using the right tools. Using a normal hand held power drill (corded or cordless) is fine... "providing" it has speed control!

Rule One: Never use a twist drill bit you might have laying around. Twist bits are your typical standard everyday drill bit for wood, metal etc) The problem is the angle of the point and the degree of the rack along the shaft are not designed to cut plastic. Twist bits can splinter, crack and ruin the plastic!


Instead... shop around and try to purchase what is known as a dowel bit / spur bit or brad point bit (like the one below on the left), different names but they all look the same. You can also use cone bit / step bit or taper bit, like the one below on the right, but they can be rather expensive and more difficult to find the hole size you want to drill. The biggest advantage to using a spur bit is the needle sharp point allows you to place the drill bit exactly where you want to drill the hole and it won't "walk" or skip across the material as you try to start the hole. If you can't find spur / dowel bits locally, or a a price you can live with, your next best bet is to just buy a drill bit specifically designed for drilling plastic. You can find the "Plas-Drill" on Amazon or on eBay. The advantage to Plas-Drill is you can purchase them individually in the size you need and they tend to cost less than a set of spur bits and way cheaper than a step bit.
rpG7tZ5.jpg

Rule Two: Use a drill motor with speed control. The reason is because you want to drill plastic at "slower" speeds. If you drill too fast the plastic will MELT and cause the hole edges to deform. It will look nasty and is difficult to clean off the melted edges Faster speeds can also lead to cracking if the bit grabs the material too fast! eek.gif

Another thing to be aware of when drilling a holes in plastic, (even when using the correct bit) is the plastic can "chip" on the backside as the drill bit exits the hole. The easiest approach to prevent this is to place a small block of wood on the back side of the hole, holding it firmly against the plastic where the drill bit is going to exit the material. (Use caution not to drill into your hand!) If the design of the case is such where you intend to drill it won't allow for you to place a piece of wood against it.... then just try to make sure to slow down as the drill bit exits the hole. Worse case if the drill exits too fast or exits without backing are little tiny chips that can occur around the edges of the hole. The good news is no one will see them because they will all be on the inside of the case.

HINT: For the best results, lay our your design pattern as to where you want to drill the holes. I usually cover the surface area where I'm going to drill with painters tape, or masking tape, or contact paper. This allows me to draw out the design with pencil or pen and eyeball the finished design before you start drilling.
poU7QOT.jpg

Could you use a Dremel tool to drill the holes? Sure... but unless your Dremel has speed control they run way too fast and will melt the plastic. Can you throw all this information out the window and just use a good old fashioned wood bit? Sure... just go slow and take your time. Don't push or force the drill while its cutting. Let it bit cut at its own speed. It will crack as the bit breaks through the other side if you push at all. NET: Drilling the case is no big deal and quite simple actually. Just take your time. If you get a chance, try and take a picture or two once you get done so we can check out your handy work.
Edited by Elton Noway - 5/3/17 at 12:53pm
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-6600K 6M Skylake Quad-Core 3.5 GH... ASRock Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac LGA 1151 Intel Z170 M... EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SSC GAMING ACX 2.0+ 04... Kingston HyperX FURY Black 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 213... 
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Cryorig XF140mm x 25.4mm (CPU / Case fan) Noctua NF-P12 120 mm Nine Blade SSO Bearing Fan... Noctua NF-P12 120 mm Nine Blade SSO Bearing Fan...  Penn F1686/25 4pc large rubber speaker cabinet... 
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Intel Core i5-6600K 6M Skylake Quad-Core 3.5 GH... ASRock Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac LGA 1151 Intel Z170 M... EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SSC GAMING ACX 2.0+ 04... Kingston HyperX FURY Black 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 213... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
SAMSUNG 950 PRO M.2 256GB PCI-Express 3.0 x4  SystemX 1TB SATA 6Gbps 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (pending) CRYORIG C1 ITX Top Flow Cooler 
OSMonitorPowerCase
Windows 10 Professional BenQ XL2730Z 27" Black-Red MOdel 1ms SILVERSTONE SX500-LG 500W SFX-L 80 PLUS GOLD SilverStone Milo ML07B (Black) 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Cryorig XF140mm x 25.4mm (CPU / Case fan) Noctua NF-P12 120 mm Nine Blade SSO Bearing Fan... Noctua NF-P12 120 mm Nine Blade SSO Bearing Fan...  Penn F1686/25 4pc large rubber speaker cabinet... 
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post #6866 of 6930
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/BskdnQ FTZ01 build with a TD03 SLIM AiO overclocked to 5Ghz with a delidded 7600K and two Noctua 25mm fans






Edited by Chris1479 - 5/2/17 at 12:41pm
post #6867 of 6930




Just made an FTZ01 AiO build on PCPartPicker with a guide and pictures if anyone wants some tips https://pcpartpicker.com/b/BskdnQ
post #6868 of 6930
delete
Edited by general molotof - 5/3/17 at 3:24pm
post #6869 of 6930
delete
Edited by general molotof - 5/3/17 at 3:25pm
post #6870 of 6930
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton Noway View Post

Using this method... I did a search on your motherboard in this forum. So, if you compare all the successful builds you find with your motherboard used in any one of these three cases RVZ01,FTZ01,ML07 - it will guarantee you will have a near painless build providing you choose the same components, or a mix of the same. (near painless... other than going crazy trying to cram everything into such a small case with a big honking heatsink in the way)

Hey again, well your post has been very helpful!
After searching through various CPU cooler manufacturers, i concluded to the following models:
Cryorig C1
Thermalright AXP-200
Be Quiet! Shadow Rock LP
Raijintek Pallas
Reeven Brontes
Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev.B

After extensively searching this forum, i had to forget about Raijintek Pallas. It won't fit in the case with my motherboard selection. Also Thermalmight AXP-200 seems too big (i am not risking to find out myself), and has the same problems as Raijintek Pallas. Cryorig C1 might fit, but it is also much more expensive than the rest, so it is also out if the equitation. I couldn't find any information regarding the Reeven Brontes, so it is also out.

Then i have to decide between the Scythe and the Be Quiet!, which will both fit. I am leaning towards the Be Quiet!, but i will have to search it a bit more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by antilles View Post

As for other coolers, along with maybe the majority here I use the Scythe Big Shuriken 2. It has very few compatibility issues while still being pretty effective. The Shadow Rock LP is quieter (that's its specialty) but not as effective at heat dissipation. The Noctua NH-L12 can fit with a low profile fan. The Silverstone NT-06 is designed for this case: at 82mm tall it pulls air in directly with no other fan running in series, like the Shuriken or Pallas need, but I think overall quality is lower than the other ones.

Hi antilles, you could mount the Scythe in all four directions or there were problems?

Also, i have a question: when searching through various builds, i saw that the rvz01b has different versions (not talking about the rvz01b-e, but about revisions like v1.3 and v1.5), does anyone know the differences and which is the latest model? From what i seen later models have a bigger PSU cut out. Is there something i am missing?

EDIT: After some searching i couldn't find a review that directly compares the two coolers. Anyway the difference is just going to be some degrees and my top concern is not performance right now but silence. The Be quiet! one seems to be the way to go.

EDIT2: Sorry for the triple post, something was messed up and i thought the post was deleted but in reality i posted the same thing three times, so sorry about that!

Thanks in advance!
Hector
Edited by general molotof - 5/3/17 at 3:45pm
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