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post #221 of 2133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

Ill look when I get home. Pretty sure i have seen a repair guide somewhere
SHHHHHH hhhhhh maybe we should add this to the OP?/ the sega thread op ?!
Edited by Mega Man - 10/28/15 at 5:05pm
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post #222 of 2133

Unfortunately, I don't know if those will help me.

So far I've:

- visually inspected the PCB
- replaced the fuse with another 2.5A
- cleaned the contacts on the Genesis and a little on the Sega CD

Still nothing but a black screen on every attempted boot
Edited by Mr357 - 10/28/15 at 6:32pm
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post #223 of 2133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr357 View Post

Unfortunately, I don't know if those will help me.

So far I've:

- visually inspected the PCB
- replaced the fuse with another 2.5A
- cleaned the contacts on the Genesis and a little on the Sega CD

Still nothing but a black screen on every attempted boot
Silly question but does it need a disk to boot etc ?
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post #224 of 2133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbags View Post

Silly question but does it need a disk to boot etc ?

Nope. Even if I didn't connect the optical drive it would still go to a startup screen.
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post #225 of 2133
Thread Starter 
Try cleaning the contacts on the Genesis and Sega CD with Brasso, and then finish with 90% isopropyl alcohol.

Visually inspect them. Do you see black varnish on the pins or not? It helps to use a bright flashlight. I use a LED flashlight personally.

Have you disassembled the unit, removing all RF shielding and inspected the motherboard for bad/leaking capacitors? Is there any evidence of leaking capacitors (electrolyte; usually a yellowish or brownish gunk on the board)? Have you inspected the motherboard for bad/damaged traces?

Are you using an OFFICIAL Sega power supply with the correct wattage? The one I use for my Sega CDs is a model 1602: Input 120V 60hz 17W Output 9V DC 1.2a

There is a model 1602-1 that I have that is official Sega but it outputs 25W instead of 17W. This works fine with the Genesis but I noticed my CDs are more reliable with the one above.

Other than that, it might be a power regulation issue or maybe a fried power board? I don't know much about power supplies so I can't help you there.

Answer all those questions for yourself and try them. If it still doesn't work it might be a lost cause unless you can get a different power board from an identical unit and install it. thinking.gif
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post #226 of 2133
Just a fyi. Not all but most 9vdc plus ( specifically talking about old video game systems ) are actually 12vdc. I measured all of mine as when I finish my basement I will be powering them ago using a computer psu ( already have all stepdown transformers just need time and money to compete remodel and buy furnature
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post #227 of 2133
Thread Starter 
Interesting. Thanks!

I should probably look through the service manuals you linked (I added them to the Sega thread) to find out what Sega actually REALLY recommended to use with the Sega CD, unless you know.

I just know, NEVER EVER use a Nintendo adapter on a Sega machine and vice versa, even if the plug fits. Don't use third party adapters either. All my Sega systems only get used with the official power supplies. I've heard many, many horror stories about old consoles getting fried because people use off-brand power supplies.

jimbags has also been added. Welcome! I still use ZSNES too and I have since around 1997 when it was brand new! Back then, with a Pentium 75mhz, that emulator was the best because it was the fastest by far. I remember getting a AMD K6-2 system and being so happy I could put the frameskip up to 3, lol. (It still couldn't run it full speed with no frame skip!)
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post #228 of 2133
Nah a power supply is a power supply.

Just have to verify 4 things ac or DC out put. Voltage. Amperage. And plug polarity
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post #229 of 2133
As I've said in previous posts, all of the capacitors look fine. There's definitely no leakage. The AC adapter I have is a 10V 1.2A (1602-1), but it's the one that came with model 2 Sega CD's originally and works despite outputting 10V instead of 9. I'll check the tabs on the ports again, but I highly doubt that that's an issue. It's looking like a regulator died, but I have no way of determining which one. Unfortunately there's almost no information out there on fixing model 2 CD's except for replacing the fuse and repairing the optical drive.
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post #230 of 2133
Have you tried it with a disk in? Does it spin?
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