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post #241 of 2128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr357 View Post

Unfortunately I can't do that. I have a Model 2 Genesis, which takes the yellow-tipped AC adapter. Even if it fit, the amperage isn't right.

I've still had no luck trying to meter the 1602-1 adapter, but when I plug it into my Kill-A-Watt it does pull some power. The amount doesn't change when I try starting up the Sega CD though.

I could be wrong about this but I was under the impression when you see an amperage rating on a wall wart power supply that's actually the maximum amperage it can take. If the device in question requires less amperage it will just use the amount it needs. Or maybe I'm missing the context of your comment.
 
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post #242 of 2128
Quote:
Originally Posted by subassy View Post

I could be wrong about this but I was under the impression when you see an amperage rating on a wall wart power supply that's actually the maximum amperage it can take. If the device in question requires less amperage it will just use the amount it needs. Or maybe I'm missing the context of your comment.

I don't think so. We're talking about direct current, meaning the amperage shouldn't ever drop or jump.
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post #243 of 2128
Quote:
Originally Posted by subassy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr357 View Post

Unfortunately I can't do that. I have a Model 2 Genesis, which takes the yellow-tipped AC adapter. Even if it fit, the amperage isn't right.

I've still had no luck trying to meter the 1602-1 adapter, but when I plug it into my Kill-A-Watt it does pull some power. The amount doesn't change when I try starting up the Sega CD though.

I could be wrong about this but I was under the impression when you see an amperage rating on a wall wart power supply that's actually the maximum amperage it can take give. If the device in question requires less amperage it will just use the amount it needs. Or maybe I'm missing the context of your comment.

amps are not pushed. they are pulled ( meaning the devices uses what it needs ) look at pc psus, we tell you to get more then you need. not less, less can hurt you more can not

the only time amps hurt is with a short.

the unit starts pulling too many amps and melts things.

you can always go higher then rated amps ( device rating not power supply rating ) you can not go less, with the exception of LEDS - but that is a different matter
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post #244 of 2128
That's what I meant I think. If a device needs 1.2 amps and the wall wart you have says 3 amps...it should work because the device will only draw the 1.2 out of the power supply max of 3 amps. Right? Sorry i didn't phrase that very well.
 
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post #245 of 2128
correct you were not wrong, i just used a different wording that is it
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post #246 of 2128
Yeah Amps are pulled from wall to device, so device 'decides' amps. Volts are pushed to device from wall So wall 'decides' how many volts. Wattage is amps x volts.eg 12v 54amp psu is good for 650W or there abouts.
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post #247 of 2128
I did absolutely nothing, and the Sega CD randomly decided to power on for the first time today. I'd removed all of the screws, so I put all of the internal ones back in, connected the optical drive, and once again it powered on (the laser even moved). However, I had it in a different room from my tv, so I had to turn it off and move it. With my luck, of course it decided to stop working as soon as I did that. Since then I've tried just about everything, including returning it to the room in which it had worked, and I still can't get anything out of it. I'm really puzzled now.
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post #248 of 2128
sounds like a short

you need to trace out power - starting at the plug, plug it in check the tip of the power cord like he said, one in the hole and one outside, using dc voltage on the multimeter, if you see negative voltage it means you are using the positive ( on the multimeter ) on the negative pole of the power supply - and nothing to worry about
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post #249 of 2128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

sounds like a short

you need to trace out power - starting at the plug, plug it in check the tip of the power cord like he said, one in the hole and one outside, using dc voltage on the multimeter, if you see negative voltage it means you are using the positive ( on the multimeter ) on the negative pole of the power supply - and nothing to worry about

I can barely get anything out of the AC adapter, regardless of how I configure the meter. Would it be a bad idea to open it up and look inside?
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post #250 of 2128
just dont do it plugged in. i would try a different adapter, i bet the wire has a short


when you open it up i can guide you how to test it
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