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How to Watercool the ASUS 990FX Sabertooth Rev2.0 VRMs and NB - Page 2

post #11 of 167

here's the voltage readings
doesn't seem to be the voltage on vcore - appears i had it set manually on 1.35V
i think i will have to tear this apart and install the block once again when i have some time
did you use included thermal pads or had something else?
not sure what else can i try

forgot to mention - above is done after 5min in prime95 blend
Edited by 3m3k - 2/26/14 at 12:08pm
post #12 of 167
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3m3k View Post

honestly i have no idea what voltage do i have on vram - most likely set to auto...will check that when i'm at home and see what volts come up.
if the voltage is the case would you know by any chance what voltage range should i be starting with (i can see you have it on 1.55V and goes to 1.57) - and how much does it affect stability?
i' m aiming at around 5 - 5.1Ghz with the CPU as yours is set but i know it is most likely an individual case just like CPU volts

The 1.55+V (increases from what I have it set at under heavy load due to LLC) you see is my CPU voltage for 5.0GHz. That's the absolute lowest I've been able to get it and remain stable with that clock - one tick lower voltage and the system freezes with IBT AVX and Core 6 (shown as 7 in Prime) fails.. Vcore/CPU voltage has a very direct relationship with stability. Voltage needs seem to raise exponentially in relation to GHz
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3m3k View Post


here's the voltage readings
doesn't seem to be the voltage on vcore - appears i had it set manually on 1.35V
i think i will have to tear this apart and install the block once again when i have some time
did you use included thermal pads or had something else?
not sure what else can i try

forgot to mention - above is done after 5min in prime95 blend

Both your vcore-1 (VRM) and vcore-2 (I believe this is NB) are significantly higher than mine at 5GHz and beyond.

Yep I just used the included thermal pad on the bottom of the Koolance VRM heat plate and re-used the original thermal pad that was on the VRM backplate

Looking at your system my first thought is your 700RPM <1mmH2O fans, including on a UT60, but you say your temps are OK elsewhere in the loop. Seeing your 44*C (I assume at 4.7GHz) you might be at the thermal limit (62*C) of the chip @ 5GHz
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post #13 of 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archea47 View Post

Looking at your system my first thought is your 700RPM <1mmH2O fans, including on a UT60, but you say your temps are OK elsewhere in the loop. Seeing your 44*C (I assume at 4.7GHz) you might be at the thermal limit (62*C) of the chip @ 5GHz

Yep i think i will go in that direction
was thinking of noctua nh-p12 as i already have 2
or CM r4's (seen these have around 3mmH2O)
or Sythe GT AP-15's

But to do that i will have to wait till the end of march unfortunately :-(
If you have any suggestions regarding the fans it would be much appreciated
As soon as i have the results i'll post'em in this thread
Maybe even put the NB and RAM under water as well.....
post #14 of 167
Im currently assembling my rig and i have a question regarding the Koolance MVR-PLT140.

Koolance only stated to remove the CLEAR cover of the thermal pad which i did obviously but...there is another cover which is pinkish in colour i tried to peel it of but had no luck maybe because its supposed to stay on place...?

So do i need to remove the pinkish cover on the thermal pad or not?

Ps: those holes i had to drill where a PITA to do seriously i almost gave up until some one in a works space for metal workings drilled it for me it turned out hopefully good it doesnt touch any metal parts like the chokes but i will triple check everything.

Thanks in advance.
post #15 of 167
i guess so.. the thermal pad is only the gray part..secured from both sides with plastic so you need to use the spongy part in the middle...
dont forget to apply some thermal compound as well ( on the vrams and between the plate and watterblock)
post #16 of 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3m3k View Post

i guess so.. the thermal pad is only the gray part..secured from both sides with plastic so you need to use the spongy part in the middle...
dont forget to apply some thermal compound as well ( on the vrams and between the plate and watterblock)

Thanks for the reply,

Grey? well its white and it comes with a clear cover that should be removed but the pinkish cover on the other side i have no clue whether to remove it or not ...since your guessing it made things a bit more confusing for me. redface.gif

So i also need to use thermal compound ie Artic MX-4 (since MX-4 is better i believe...) on the vrams as well as on top a thermal pad? Isnt the thermal tape provided with the Koolance MVR-PLT140 sufficient enough?

Just to be clear thermal compound is like artic silver, MX-4 that you have to spread.
And thermal PAD is that tape you get in this case white.

Please be more clear and im sorry english is not my native language so bare with me.

Thanks
Edited by Cobra26 - 3/24/14 at 8:29am
post #17 of 167
you need to remove protective cover from both sides of the thermal pad in order to use it ...so use the middle part only regardless of the color
as per the thermal compound people say different things...some use it in addition to the pads and some don't
i used both pad + paste and works fine for me
...the worst thing for me was to run the tube from the top rad to this block

edit:

PAD is the spongy tape
and thermal compound or paste is MX-4 for example

good luck, in case of any questions just write
Edited by 3m3k - 3/24/14 at 9:42am
post #18 of 167
this is slick. I will have to do this with mine as i build my loops. still want to see the ek-fc bridge configured for this board, i want to use as few fittings as possible. I am getting thermal runaway in just about every piece of my machine except the cpu, but i always knew this h110 would be a temporary fix.
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post #19 of 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3m3k View Post

you need to remove protective cover from both sides of the thermal pad in order to use it ...so use the middle part only regardless of the color
as per the thermal compound people say different things...some use it in addition to the pads and some don't
i used both pad + paste and works fine for me
...the worst thing for me was to run the tube from the top rad to this block

edit:

PAD is the spongy tape
and thermal compound or paste is MX-4 for example

good luck, in case of any questions just write

Thanks for the reply,

Ive asked Koolance about this issue and guess what il post the exact response from Koolance quote:

"Hello,

You only need to remove the clear side. You'll then stick the white side to the block itself and the pink side will contact the motherboard.

-Dylan

Koolance Technical Support"

Bit of different stories ie to remove or not to remove maybe its fine with both....? But that pink part is almost glued on the thermal pad i cant peel it of suggesting it wasnt meant to be peeled of....*sigh* well il try to peel it of again if it doesnt il leave it as it is with the pink cover.
Edited by Cobra26 - 3/24/14 at 9:15pm
post #20 of 167
Thread Starter 
Absolutely remove the paper/plastic/etc. from Each side of the thermal tape - that part's far more critical than optionally putting TIM on the VRMs in addition to the tape
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