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[Build Log] PSITX: Mini-ITX Original PlayStation

post #1 of 35
Thread Starter 
In this build I will put a capable gaming PC into an original PlayStation gaming console.



I got inspired after doing some part hunting to help venom55520 attempting to put a PC in a dead XBox 360. What I found was an external power supply with a very minimal internal ATX connector with more power than I had been able to find before. I've had this old PlayStation sitting around for a while, and I had done some measuring, but I couldn't find an external PSU that would deliver more than 85w. What I found is capable of 160w (200 peak) through a PicoPSU connector.



That doesn't take up much more space than a standard ATX power connector with a bundle of wires coming out of it. You can find these on eBay for around $65 shipped with a 150w power adapter, or less for just the PicoPSU connector.

Current Status: Components are contained within the confines of the original PlayStationn.
Current task: Stress Testing components for cooling effectiveness.
Next task: Securing the motherboard. Ventilation improvements as needed.



I did some research and identified all my components. This is what I'm looking at:
GIGABYTE GA-B85N-WIFI LGA 1150 Mini-ITX motherboard
-Mini-ITX with wifi and mSATA. Cheaper alternative to my favored ASRock z87 Extreme.
Intel core i3 4130T CPU (35w TDP)
PowerColor HD 7750 1GB GDDR5 low profile on a 90 degree PCI-E riser.
- I've seen the Galaxy low profile 750 ti but it is double-wide and I don't know if I can find a PCI-E riser the right height for that to fit. For now I'll stick with the single slot 7750.
Crucial m500 mSATA SSD, either 240gb or 480gb
8gb Crucial Ballistix Tactical (2x4gb) low-profile memory
-I might swap this for the Samsung low profile set I have in the Falcon which don't have a heat spreader sticking up. Seriously, why would you put a heat spreader that sticks up on LP memory?
Dynatron K99 CPU cooler
-It's pretty small but should be able to cool a 35 watt CPU.
I've also found USB to PS1/2 adapter devices. I don't know how practical they are, but I will be getting one.

Once I was convinced that this build was possible I went to work tearing down the PlayStation.



Five screws hold the two halves of the shell together.



With the top off you can see the original PSU on the left, held in with two screws and a little plastic clip. The controller/memory card ports are covered by a thin shroud, which is held down by five more screws.



The power supply and CD-ROM both unplug cleanly from the motherboard. Besides that the CD-ROM simply rests on three posts with rubber feet, which is pretty slick.



The controller module also unplugs easily and another handful of screws releases the plate covering the motherboard.



That plate hinges open on that copper tape you saw in the upper left. It is pretty impressive that this thing didn't even have any heat sinks at all.
Many of the screws I've already removed were doing double duty, so there's only three left holding the board down.



There's another metal plate under the board. I don't know if this was doing some minimal heat dissipation or if it was just a dust protector. Nothing is left holding it down, but it is connected to the cover plate by that copper colored tape.



There we have it, all components removed, but with a bunch of little plastic bits sticking up that will need to be dealt with.



I had the guts out of the Millennium Falcon already, so I thought I'd do some sizing with a real mini-ITX system motherboard (The video card is currently going through RMA procedures). That's a Prolimatech Samuel 17 low profile cooler on it, and it is still too tall. I've found a server-style side-blowing cooler that should be short enough. It will also line up nicely with the vents on the side of the PlayStation.

Next step: Dremel Time:



There's the bulk of the little posts gone. I'll clean them up and get them flush later. You can see the five raised circles around the edges, those are where the five screws held the two halves of the case together. Depending on how the motherboard is oriented I can get one or two of them to line up. There are posts coming down from the top half which will have to be shortened or removed though. First the CD tray needs to come out though. It intrudes far too much into the interior of the case.



Cutting through plastic with a dremel isn't pretty. Fortunately those globs of melted plastic come off pretty easily, but it will take some work to clean up the edges.



For now I preserved the lid-opening action, but I did find the design flaw which caused these to jam so badly. There's a hard edge on the bit that is supposed to slide freely up and down the sloped post of the button. It's sharp enough that it digs in and won't slide. It isn't just a matter of the spring not being strong enough. Even if you pull on the spring it won't release, you have to push the peg. I will fix this if I end up keeping this mechanism.



Here's the underside of the top of the case after removing the tray. I'm hoping that I won't have to disturb the hinge mechanism, but I think it is going to end up overlapping the power connector on the motherboard I've picked out.

Update:


I did some more dremel work to cut down the lid and clean up my previous work. It's much better now.



There's a little clear plastic piece which sticks down and carried light from an LED from the PSU to the top near the power button. It's neat, but it sticks down too far. I'll still have a power LED there.



I also cleaned up the bottom and got things flushed up. There's a gradual rise at the front edge that I'm going to get as close to as possible. I'll probably need that clearance anyways for mounting the CPU cooler.


That's all for now. I'll update this post/thread with progress. I want to document this build a little more thoroughly than I did the Falcon.
(I originally posted this in the wrong sub-forum, sorry)

Update 3/28/13: Got all the components, added current status/current task near the top of this post. See page 2 for full update.
Edited by lowguppy - 4/4/14 at 2:11pm
post #2 of 35

Subbed :thumb:

post #3 of 35
Thread Starter 
Added a couple pics of some Dremel work I did today. Nothing fancy, but it is progress.
post #4 of 35
Subbed as well. Love a good Mini-itx build biggrin.gif
Master Mavis
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The Intern
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Nope. Intel 330 SSD LiteOn Hellno Alphacool ST30 360 Alphacool NexXxos Monsta 240 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
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Master Mavis
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The Intern
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570k ASRock Z77 OC Formula EVGA GTX 670 FTW Corsair Vengeance 8GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Nope. Intel 330 SSD LiteOn Hellno Alphacool ST30 360 Alphacool NexXxos Monsta 240 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Dual Bay D5 Reservoir  Watercool HEATKILLER CPU Rev3.0 1155/1156/1150 LT Watercool HEATKILLER GPU-X³ GTX 680 "Hole Editi... Corsair SP120 HP 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
W8 Acer B246HL Acer B246HL Acer B246HL 
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Corsair K90 Corsair AX850 Corsair C70 Corsair M65 
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post #5 of 35
Subbed for nostalgia.. biggrin.gif
Cherry Bomber
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Cherry Bomber
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post #6 of 35
Subbed biggrin.gif
Alienware 15
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Alienware 15
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post #7 of 35
Subbed. This is gonna be sweet.
Current rig
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post #8 of 35
subbed. good job! thumb.gif
Mach
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Mach
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post #9 of 35
Signing in. Looks interesting

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
post #10 of 35
Wow looks sick thumb.gif. Ive got a playstation 1 laying around and thought of doing this many times with an itx board and one of those mini low wattage PSUs like you have in the second pic of first post. Whats going to happen to the playstation's CD drive in your project, will you still be able to use discs with your mod? Interested to know because doing a project like this has been on my mind for ages but could never figure out what to do about the disc tray
   
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Pink Power
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Western Digital Green 2TB Intel 520 SSD Samsung SH-224DB DVD Burner Corsair H105 
CoolingCoolingOSPower
2x Enermax T.B Apollish Twister 140mm 2x NZXT FN 120RB Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Thermaltake ToughPower XT 775W 
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