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[Build Log] -- Salive8 -- (CaseLabs S8) - Page 6

post #51 of 610
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post

I've not decided what I'll put on yet - probably some medium mesh stuff that will filter the bigger dust - but not restrict the fan's intake too much.
The Demciflex have a following and make for most CaseLabs models - but pretty expensive

yeah im in the same boat, i want some filters but cant find any that would look nice and work well with <1000rpm fans..

nice build btw!
     
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post #52 of 610
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post

Time to bust out the stash tongue.gif
I decided I'ld rather have some extra space between the sets of fans blowing at each other in the ped.
Was either more E-Loops with shrouds - kinda too close together or a few from the GT stash biggrin.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
If you ever feel the need to sell,lets say 10 of those GT's let me know biggrin.gif,cnt seem to find them in aus anymore....Looking forward to the acrylic being installed....thumb.gif
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post #53 of 610
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pheozero View Post

Oh hi there xD. subbed!
Secondly, I see you're doing this case great justice. Nice work thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by NKrader View Post

yeah im in the same boat, i want some filters but cant find any that would look nice and work well with <1000rpm fans..
nice build btw!
Thanks & Welcome thumb.gif


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

If you ever feel the need to sell,lets say 10 of those GT's let me know biggrin.gif,cant seem to find them in aus anymore....Looking forward to the acrylic being installed....thumb.gif
Never say Never biggrin.gif but highly unlikely that urge will come over me smile.gif

Well here's an issue that I overlooked previously rolleyes.gif
Mostly because the chassis side covers are still in the plastic and needed replacement parts to complete the ped.
Now that chassis and ped are mated again and ped has side cover on, it stands out like dogs balls where as was too subtle for me to notice earlier.

The mounting screws and rubber washers that I mounted the 280 rad with are too long - the side cover would never fit on.
AND I have rubber anti-vibe pads between the fans and the mounting bracket.
Even with the screw head section sorted out (without the rubber washers) so screw heads not sticking out so far, I think fans would still stick out too far.
My conclusion is that using these side rad mounts - can't use anti-vibe pads and screw lengths must be spot on with no "spacing / washers" at the screw heads.



And to end this update on a positive note.....
Pretty certain that this triple 7970 card combo is what I'll use - with HeatKiller blocks and plates biggrin.gif

post #54 of 610
jeebus !!! triple 7970s, let me get outta the way biggrin.gif
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post #55 of 610
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post

Thanks KC wink.gif
Should have some more pics up in a few hours.
Ped progressing well biggrin.gif

ADragg - big breath.....
I tested some time ago with gaskets and had trouble with the blades occasional touching when trying to get a good seal.
As you know the frame is so narrow on the flat edges.
Still though - I do think there was some noise when the spinning blades were close to the rad mounting rail but I thought was not scraping.

The shrouds are Phobya 120 x 120 x 20mm Fan / Radiator Shroud - Plexi
The seal is as good as can be - but I'll still be trfing to get some sealing foam strip on the edges - for the possible blades touching


CaseLabs customer Service thumbsupsmiley.png

The rubber things (one each side) are indeed cable management things - well spotted biggrin.gif
At the moment the hard piping is pretty much supporting the pump assembly.
The rubber cable management thingies are keeping the rear end of the pump assembly from sagging down.
On the rear on the pump top are 4 holes which I'll utilize for attaching a mounting bracket to - still to be designed rolleyes.gif
As for vibration and the solid mounting I'll have some sort of dampener between the pumps and Blu-ray - similar to the temp set up now.
I got the Alpenfohn's (Wing Boost 140) on a clearance sale from TKR here in Aus - were $12 each or something crazy like that biggrin.gif
The Alpenfohn's have the same issue as E-Loops with blade clearance when in pull mode

Thanks for the response and sorry for all the long winded posts. If I haven't mentioned yet, the reason I'm all over this build is partly because of common components, but mostly because I'm doing a white S5 build (it's actually up and running with loop installed, but there's still much to be done and new components to get to make it even better, etc. Just got a big MDPC sleeving shipment in today!), so I like to see what you do with yours, even if they're quite different and even though yours is an S8.

Like you said, the eLoop frame is so thin/narrow on the flat edges so it's difficult to make it work with the gaskets, because the fan will still want to rub the gasket itself in that spot. What I ended up doing was cutting the gasket up into four corner triangles. That way it moves the fan away from the rad enough that it doesn't rub and it also gets the sides of the gasket out of the way so it won't contact the fan either. But obviously it leaves a gap where air can get through on all four sides of the fan, which might be why they're quiet. Do you think that's killing the performance since it's not sealed very well. I could see that killing the static pressure, but I dunno. I might look into those Phobya shrouds. However, the shrouds are thick in the same spot where the eLoops are so thin, so I would think the fan blades would rub on the shroud just like it does on a radiator? But if it seals well and doesn't rub and is quiet, then that's awesome.

Thanks again, keep up the great work!
post #56 of 610
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post


Thanks & Welcome thumb.gif
Never say Never biggrin.gif but highly unlikely that urge will come over me smile.gif

Well here's an issue that I overlooked previously rolleyes.gif
Mostly because the chassis side covers are still in the plastic and needed replacement parts to complete the ped.
Now that chassis and ped are mated again and ped has side cover on, it stands out like dogs balls where as was too subtle for me to notice earlier.

The mounting screws and rubber washers that I mounted the 280 rad with are too long - the side cover would never fit on.
AND I have rubber anti-vibe pads between the fans and the mounting bracket.
Even with the screw head section sorted out (without the rubber washers) so screw heads not sticking out so far, I think fans would still stick out too far.
My conclusion is that using these side rad mounts - can't use anti-vibe pads and screw lengths must be spot on with no "spacing / washers" at the screw heads.



And to end this update on a positive note.....
Pretty certain that this triple 7970 card combo is what I'll use - with HeatKiller blocks and plates biggrin.gif


Have you tried flipping the bracket around. I'm redoing my STH10 and had forgotten how the bracket can go either way. What I mean is put the fans on the inside of the bracket so you would have (from the front) bracket, fan, rad and fan. In the bottom of my case I had fan filter, grill, fan, bracket and rad . I barely had room to get the side cover on. On my new set up I got rid of the filters and grills and forked out the cash for a set of DEMCiflex filters. wink.gif
post #57 of 610
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zooty Cat View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Have you tried flipping the bracket around. I'm redoing my STH10 and had forgotten how the bracket can go either way. What I mean is put the fans on the inside of the bracket so you would have (from the front) bracket, fan, rad and fan. In the bottom of my case I had fan filter, grill, fan, bracket and rad . I barely had room to get the side cover on. On my new set up I got rid of the filters and grills and forked out the cash for a set of DEMCiflex filters. wink.gif
Hey Zooty,
No flipping the bracket will not help in this situation sad-smiley-002.gif
I have discovered the most likely cause of the misfit though.
The depth of the step in where the fans mount is just 23mm, so once a 25mm fan is attached it sticks out past the sides of chassis, then add screw head height and it's touching the vented side panel tongue.gif
On all the other mounts I have the step down is 25mm - which leave the fan flush with sides of the main chassis.
I'm wondering if this is an error from the CL manufacturing side, so I'm going to email Kevin and get his opinion.
Technically it is still usalble I suppose, but would have to be mounted from the inside (and screwed to the chassis from the inside) and then assemble the cooler pack, losing it's drop in appeal redface.gif

Think I'll fit another 360mm rad in that chamber - at least for a look.
See what room is available for both push and push pull.
I have a 60mm and 45 mm 360 rad to play with (both used but in good condition)
post #58 of 610
Thread Starter 
Ripped the 280 with "odd" mounting plate out.
and in with the 360 mount biggrin.gif (perfect fit by the way, same as the ped's brackets)
But will need the treatment (cut outs) to get the stop plugs to be fitted.
Complete wit UT45 360 rad and 3 x Phobya Red NB e-Loops (taken from the main chamber)
Not going to worry about pull fans on the inside of this rad, though they could fit.

Because I used the main chamber fans to install on this rad I now need to find 5 more fans for that space.
I really don't think the GT's will too flash in there so thinking more e-Loops need to be ordered rolleyes.gif
What you guys reckon white or red for the main chamber intake and exhaust fans ?
I might be able to scavenge 5 whites from other projects ??? which would save some spending.....

Also fitted the remaining 3 white e-Loops with shrouds on the top rads.....
and had a look at what some pin striping might look like rolleyes.gif not sure about this yet, maybe because it is foil material and not painted.




post #59 of 610
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADragg View Post

Thanks for the response and sorry for all the long winded posts. If I haven't mentioned yet, the reason I'm all over this build is partly because of common components, but mostly because I'm doing a white S5 build (it's actually up and running with loop installed, but there's still much to be done and new components to get to make it even better, etc. Just got a big MDPC sleeving shipment in today!), so I like to see what you do with yours, even if they're quite different and even though yours is an S8.

Like you said, the eLoop frame is so thin/narrow on the flat edges so it's difficult to make it work with the gaskets, because the fan will still want to rub the gasket itself in that spot. What I ended up doing was cutting the gasket up into four corner triangles. That way it moves the fan away from the rad enough that it doesn't rub and it also gets the sides of the gasket out of the way so it won't contact the fan either. But obviously it leaves a gap where air can get through on all four sides of the fan, which might be why they're quiet. Do you think that's killing the performance since it's not sealed very well. I could see that killing the static pressure, but I dunno. I might look into those Phobya shrouds. However, the shrouds are thick in the same spot where the eLoops are so thin, so I would think the fan blades would rub on the shroud just like it does on a radiator? But if it seals well and doesn't rub and is quiet, then that's awesome.

The real problem is when they are pulling in a floor mount situation where gravity is against the blade and wants to hang down.
In this roof mount pull situation - the blade scraping I suspect won't be an issue with the blade assembly "hanging into the housing.
Will find out soon enough and report on back wink.gif

Thanks again, keep up the great work!

In the past I've found that the rubber inserts provided with the e-Loops are enough of a "spacer" to keep the blades from touching while in pull floor mounted situation
BUT yes that still leaves a gap as you say.
Can't say for sure about the performance with the gap all around like that - seems unlikely too draw much air in through the gaps ??

A combination of the gasket corners or rubber washers/risers and the shrouds, along with somethings sealing the gap - tape of some kind would be the total solution.
Which is the reason I tried the thin pin striping to see what some taped lines might look like in that area
Obviously the tape for sealing needs to be a fair bit wider than my pin striping tape, but the taping the shrouds as described was what got me to the pin striping being applied tongue.gif
post #60 of 610
white fans, running through my vains!
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