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[Ready To Start Building] 5Ghz 3930k, Quadfire 290x, RIVBE, Custom Loop..Questions

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
So, I'm about to start assembling this weekend, however I have some questions...

1) Should I have bought a cheapo heatsink to do a first startup on air before incorporating the loop into things? Probably, right?

2) Is there any particular reason to log temps I get on air, before adding the waterloop into things? I guess it's easy enough to do on the dry run, right?

3) Anything else I should be doing in the build process that I might not be aware of, as a new scratch build newb-but not computer newb?

4) Any parts I might be missing? I know the PSU isn't listed below, I was going to go for a pair of EVGA Supernova 850s when they come out - and have a Cooler Master M2 1500w as a stand in for now. I wanted to get one large PSU, but apparently every one has a fatal flaw to it. Thoughts on that?

5) I only ordered (4) case fans.. Was that a mistake? Should I tag on a few more? I mean, I'm running (18) AP-15s push/pull through the radiators, so perhaps that might be suffice with the additional (4) AP-15s?

6)I have (2) XFX 290x, and (2) Sapphire 290x.. Should I just run Sapphire on top two slots, and XFX on bottom two? Does it matter?

7) In terms of water cooling parts, am I missing anything? I just ordered a bunch of random fittings (what I could find in stock/etc) Here is what I have:
(3) SR1 360s
(18) AP-15s
(1) FC Touch 30w fan controller - Should I ditch the FC Touch and go for an Aquaero 6 XT? Should I get any cool bay devices that might actually have some function as well?
(1) 250ml tube res
(1) MCP35X2
(4) 290x ace/nik blocks w/ 4-black terminal
(1) EK Supremacy cpu block
(1) 10' Primoflex Adv LRT
(2) Feser One UV Red - was that a mistake with the nic blocks?
(6) Bitspower 3/8" x 5/8" compression fittings
(8) Bitspower 3/8" x 5/8" rotary compression fittings
(2) Bitspower 3/8" x 5/8" 30° rotary compression fittings
(3) Bitspower 3/8" x 5/8" 90° Fitting Adapter
(2) Fujipoly Ultra Extreme 100 x 15 x 1.0mm Thermal Pads

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $440.00)
Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Black Edition EATX LGA2011 Motherboard (Purchased For $500.00)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory (Purchased For $150.00)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (Purchased For $170.00)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 290X 4GB Video Card (4-Way CrossFire) (Purchased For $600.00)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 290X 4GB Video Card (4-Way CrossFire) (Purchased For $600.00)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 290X 4GB Video Card (4-Way CrossFire) (Purchased For $600.00)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 290X 4GB Video Card (4-Way CrossFire) (Purchased For $600.00)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $340.00)
Monitor: QNIX Perfect Pixel QX2710 Matte 60Hz 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $340.00)
Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $129.00)
Mouse: Logitech G400s Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For $39.99)
Speakers: Audioengine A5+ Black 100W 2ch Speakers (Purchased For $299.00)
Other: Caselabs M8 (Purchased For $225.00)
Other: Lamptron FC Touch - 30W - 6 Channel Aluminum Rheobus w/ Touch Screen (Purchased For $73.85)
Other: (3) Black Ice® SR1 360 Radiator Series Designed for Low Flow Fans - Black (Purchased For $338.85)
Other: EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel + Red Acrylic - Fitting Size: 3/8" Barb for 3/8" ID tube (Purchased For $82.95)
Other: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 - POM - Ice Red (Purchased For $49.95)
Other: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD - Bloodshed Red (Purchased For $24.99)
Other: (4) EK-FC R9-290X VGA Block- Nickel Acetal - GPU Block Backplate: Add EK-FC R9-290X Backplate - Black (Purchased For $587.60)
Other: Swiftech MCP35X2-BK™ 12 VDC Pump - Fitting Size: No Fittings (Purchased For $200.00)
Other: (22) Scythe D1225C12B5AP-15 Gentle Typhoon 120mm Fan 1850rpm (Purchased For $488.88)
Total: $6880.06
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-02-28 11:19 EST-0500)
post #2 of 8
Thread Starter 
Uhh.. Bump?
post #3 of 8
1) I've personally never done that but it couldn't hurt to make sure all of your components are working properly just in case you need to RMA anything, especially since this is your first scratch build.

2) No reason to log temps on air unless you'd like to compare for yourself.

3) MEASURE TWICE, THRICE, FOUR TIMES AND CUT ONLY ONCE. Take your time, you'll run into situations as you go that don't have a cookie cutter answer. Take your time and figure these things out via the forums, research, etc. Alot of it is learning as you go but to avoid unnecessary RMA's just take your time. If something isn't working, take a break and get to it after you cool off.

MAKE SURE TO LEAK TEST PROPERLY. You only need to jump 2 pins on your 24 pin cable. My first WC build I fried the motherboard and GPU due to a leak.

4) I'd recommend a 1600w Lepa or atleast 1600+ watts from 2 PSU's especially if you plan to overvolt and clock your GPU's.

5) Case fans you're fine on.

6) As long as they are both identical in specs and PCB's I don't think you'll have a problem.

7) This solely depends on how you will be running your loop. Only you can know this.

Very expensive build you got going on. I'm working on something similar myself. Good luck. Remember, TAKE YOUR TIME.
Azura
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790k - Stock ASUS Z97-Pro Gamer EVGA 980 Ti SC 16GB G Skill Rijpaws @ 2133 Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB > Samsung 850 Pro 25... Windows 10 64bit Acer XB270HU Logitech G710 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 Enthoo Primo Logitech G600 Corsair SP2500 
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Azura
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790k - Stock ASUS Z97-Pro Gamer EVGA 980 Ti SC 16GB G Skill Rijpaws @ 2133 Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB > Samsung 850 Pro 25... Windows 10 64bit Acer XB270HU Logitech G710 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 Enthoo Primo Logitech G600 Corsair SP2500 
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post #4 of 8
1) Seems a good idea testing everything up to a week to see if everything is going ok.

4) For safety and overclocking room you should have at least 2000W from the power supply to run these 4 cards (yes, they are very power hungry). A youtuber that I follow did a test with a wall power consuption meter using a 3970X and 3 R9 290X overclocked all the way (I mean truly all the way, he is a HWBot king). The result: 2000W from the wall madsmiley.png (which is something like 1700/1800W from the power supply). As you are with 4 and not 3 (more then him), I recommend a minimum 2000W from the power supply. Here is the video if you want chek what I'm saying, it is in Portuguese, but you don't need to understand or even listen to him to see the results.

6) I have heard that you should make overclock tests with all them separately as every single card WILL perform different, like CPUs do. Do the tests on air just to avoid the hassle of assembling and disassembling the loop and enumerate them according to their scores. Then, with the cards rated as the 1º, the 2º, the 3º and the 4º performers, put them in this order: the best at the first slot, the second at the second slot, the third... You will have better performance doing it.

7) (2) Feser One UV Red - was that a mistake with the nic blocks?: I prefer the Mayhems coolants/dyes, they are just the best out there. You can confirm that because you can't see almost any bad feedback about them. They also have everything you need, as biocide and anti corrosion (good for you nickel plating). I would just get a Mayhem X1, clear or dyed. This thing is put-and-forget.
Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard: I would suggest buying a keyboard manufactured by Costar (the best brand of keyboards), like the CM Storm Quick Fire Rapid or another model made by Costar. Don't know by who this Corsair is made, but just saying.
Edited by Lucas Bezerra - 2/28/14 at 6:36pm
post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Hey guys! Thanks a lot for the input!

I'm hoping to get running on air ASAP.. of course there isn't a damn store within 100 miles that sells 2011 air coolers.. So, I'm at the mercy of ordering something, and it's effing killing me sitting on all these parts. I'm waiting for a few more items (dual pump, case fans, etc) to show up on Tuesday... So, hopefully I can find something that can make it by then.

Taking my time might be a little tough.. I've grown quite impatient, specing out build after build, then sleeping on it, only for newer technology to come out over the past few years...

Yeah, this build has blossomed from a $3k, all the way up the ladder.. I figure, what the hell... If I can make some gains back via mining, if the video cards pay for themselves, awesome!

The card positioning - cool, I didn't know that info, so thankful that you informed me of this..

On the keyboard - thanks for that, I'll take a peek...
post #6 of 8
1) Should I have bought a cheapo heatsink to do a first startup on air before incorporating the loop into things? Probably, right?
Doesn't matter unless you want personal comparison.

2) Is there any particular reason to log temps I get on air, before adding the waterloop into things? I guess it's easy enough to do on the dry run, right?
Curiosity is a good reason! In all seriousness, it's a good idea for the graphics cards, so you can RMA them if they aren't working. Some Manus will refuse an RMA if it has been tampered with from it's factory default design, this includes adding a waterblock.

3) Anything else I should be doing in the build process that I might not be aware of, as a new scratch build newb-but not computer newb?
Well I don't know what you know, so probably! Then again there's always more to learn, even from the most experienced water cooler.

4) Any parts I might be missing? I know the PSU isn't listed below, I was going to go for a pair of EVGA Supernova 850s when they come out - and have a Cooler Master M2 1500w as a stand in for now. I wanted to get one large PSU, but apparently every one has a fatal flaw to it. Thoughts on that?
PSUs always have a fatal flaw, they only last so long before they begin to degrade. Even the best of the best PSU will lose 2% of power output per year/every other year depending on use. (1 year for you with mining ;P

5) I only ordered (4) case fans.. Was that a mistake? Should I tag on a few more? I mean, I'm running (18) AP-15s push/pull through the radiators, so perhaps that might be suffice with the additional (4) AP-15s?
Generally for each 3.120mm radspace you want one outtake CASE FAN. Case fans have a lot more airflow than rad fans through little restriction, such as they would find in use as a case fan. You want positive pressure to prevent dust buildup, so having three rad fans, or six rad fans if your using push/pull, to every case fan will give you sufficient airflow in/out of the case.

6)I have (2) XFX 290x, and (2) Sapphire 290x.. Should I just run Sapphire on top two slots, and XFX on bottom two? Does it matter?
Are you using them in parallel? Then no, it doesn't matter.
Are you using them in series? Then do it like Lucas said.
The Laboratory
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
KeyboardPowerCase
Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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The Laboratory
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 8-Core 4.0GHz Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z Radeon R9 290X Generic 1333MHz R.A.M. 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Wester Digital 5400RPM HP CH20L "The Russian Winter" Windows 8 
KeyboardPowerCase
Steel Series Merc Fatal1ty 1000Watt PSU DIY Rig 
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post #7 of 8
I have a similar build:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1466764/red-and-black-900d-i7-3960x-32gb-memory-4x-watercooled-r9-290x-more/0_60#post_21878702

I had to use to use two power supplies (AX1200i and an HX1000). Doing a kill-a-watt test at the wall, I was pulling in over 1700w so using the two power supplies was the best option. I used a psu2psu adapter - really easy to use and, so far, very reliable.

If you can, I'd go up to 480 radiators (if you could get three to fit). I'm running a single 480 and a 360 and gaming temps are awesome (50-60C on the cards) - but then when I get to mining I get upwards to 80C after 3 or more hours of use. If you're not mining, I wouldn't worry about it - if you are (like I am), you're going to need cooler temps. I wish I could put push/pull on the top radiator (but the last spot is blocked by the first res).

I have that same exact keyboard and I love it. Been using mechanical for years and this is one of the better ones.
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMCB View Post

I have a similar build:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1466764/red-and-black-900d-i7-3960x-32gb-memory-4x-watercooled-r9-290x-more/0_60#post_21878702

I had to use to use two power supplies (AX1200i and an HX1000). Doing a kill-a-watt test at the wall, I was pulling in over 1700w so using the two power supplies was the best option. I used a psu2psu adapter - really easy to use and, so far, very reliable.

If you can, I'd go up to 480 radiators (if you could get three to fit). I'm running a single 480 and a 360 and gaming temps are awesome (50-60C on the cards) - but then when I get to mining I get upwards to 80C after 3 or more hours of use. If you're not mining, I wouldn't worry about it - if you are (like I am), you're going to need cooler temps. I wish I could put push/pull on the top radiator (but the last spot is blocked by the first res).

I have that same exact keyboard and I love it. Been using mechanical for years and this is one of the better ones.

JMCB! Thank you SOOO much for responding to this thread.. that's pretty much exactly what I was looking for.. I want to mine when not gaming, so this is the perfect response.. Sounds like I'm off to get another PSU... I'm only running 2x 290x at the moment, as I plan to bench them all on air first.. I currently am running a Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 1500w, that I actually had planned on selling off, is it worth keeping you think? Or should I go for (2) corsair/seasonic/etc types?

As for rads, I have (3) 360s, and can get more, but I'm going push/pull on all of them, and I'm hoping that will be suffice.

Which keyboard are you referring to? The Corsair? Or the recommendation on the CM/Costar?
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