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First time water cooling, (3)gtx780 ti, component check, suggestions - Page 3

post #21 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

IS that the 35x or 35x2 ?
I can't recall my CPU being anywhere near idle when gaming .... my idle temps are in 20s..... gaming temps are typically 55 - 65C for the CPU while GPU temps are way down at 39-44C even under Furmark.

You have several options.....

Use separate fan curves for ya pump, case fans and rad fans.
Connect ya Rad fans to a PCB and connect that to the GPU fan header
Use temp sensors for coolant or even for each rad to control fan speeds

To say "PWM is not the best way" I think doesn't convey what you intended..... I think you want to say "controlling the fans by CPU temp is not the best way."....PWM and VCC (variable voltage control) are just 2 different ways of doing the same thing.....controlling fan speed. One does it by constant voltage and turning the power on and off .... longer breaks between pulses mean slower speeds..... and the other does it by lowering voltage to get lower speeds.

You are picking at straws.

Imagine you tie your fans to your CPU temps.
Two problens:

1) Your fans won't speed up if it's only your GPU getting hot. And I have NEVER heard of anyone before you who gets his CPU to work harder than his GPU during gaming.
2) Your CPU gets hot but your water temps will not warm up right away so your fans get turned.up too soon, and they will also get turned down too soon, causing a less smooth speed curve.

And #1 also applies in reverse if you tie your fans to your GPU temps. When doing a CPU intensive task, your GPU will be idle and slow down your fans.
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post #22 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by frunction View Post

Guess this buying mistake is actually better! Thanks for helping me understand why PWM is not the best way to go.

I went with a bitfenix recon as the lamptron was just a bit too pricey. I'll just need to figure out how to use the channels and temp sensors properly. Also, not sure if there's a way to get it to use water temp as all those sensors look 2wire.

You have to buy a seperate water temp sensor a plug it into your controller to get water temps.
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post #23 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by NiNoDuKEz View Post

Hey sorry to Hi jack your thread but i had a question for everyone i am running XT 240 and XT 360 with a EK CSQ cpu block and 3 XSPC GPU Blocks on my Ti's with a single D5 Vario, should i run GPU's in Series or Parrallel they are currently in series, also should i add another D5 pump or add a DDC pump.

A single D5 should be sufficient. Try and change your flow rate to see if you can see temps differences.....you won't.
Try both in series cards, and paralelle and see which on works best for you. The results are split and we all disagree on the benefits of the two different ways.
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post #24 of 62
With PWM, you can't control your fans based on water temps.
Water temps is the best way to control your fans.
Either GPU or CPU temps is not a good way to control your fans. It causes your fan speed curve to fluctuate too much and will always ignore one of the two processors' heat.
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post #25 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by NiNoDuKEz View Post

Hey sorry to Hi jack your thread but i had a question for everyone i am running XT 240 and XT 360 with a EK CSQ cpu block and 3 XSPC GPU Blocks on my Ti's with a single D5 Vario, should i run GPU's in Series or Parrallel they are currently in series, also should i add another D5 pump or add a DDC pump.

Three is a tough call..... with two, parallel is the obvious solution......with four two sets on parallel cards in series is the obvious solution........whether you go series or parallel would much depend on the resistance of your CPU block and pump flow rate. Without sensors, you have no way of knowing this. However, I'm looking at it this way.

I have two 780s w/ 25% OC I am seeing 39C GPU temps under GPU stress test with fans at max rpm and 74C on CPU at 4.6GHz with fans under speed control on CPU stress testing. Under fan speed control where they max out at 850 rpm, the GPUs rise to 44C under testing. So I have maybe 10C of comfy headroom on the CPU and 40 on the GOPus..... so if anything could handle less flow, the GPUs could. So if I was to add a 3rd card, I'd prolly go parallel:

1. The 35x2 can easily handle the necessary flow..... at idle I run at 1/4 speed and at full load I run at half speed.
2. It would be easier, I am running in parallel (separate pipes, no bridges / crystal links)
3. The two existing GPUs have way more than enuff thermal headroom.
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post #26 of 62
One benefit of series with 3 cards is this:
Not all your cards will cool the same. So you could put your hottest card first in your flow, and your coolest last. That way, you will flatten out the gap of temps that almost always occurs between cards.

Still, if you have good flow, I prefer parallele whenever possible.

An other stange thing is this. You pump will actually dump more heat into your loop if you have less restriction. More restriction will result in a cooler running pump, with less of a heat dump.
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post #27 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

You have to buy a seperate water temp sensor a plug it into your controller to get water temps.

I found some threads on here that suggest taping the thermal sensors onto the radiators as the inline sensors are basically just the same thing (temp sensor wrapped in metal).

I should have went with your advice PepeLapiu and just paid for the Lamptron or Aquacomputer, I think the wattage of this Bitfenix Recon is lacking. I can only put 2 SP120's per channel as they're 3W each, which leaves no room for the pump. With the Lamptron, I could put all 4-6 fans per radiator on one channel, and still have plenty of room for the pump.

I didn't start my build yet (though I wanted to for Titanfall tomorrow), so I still have time to get a better controller.
Edited by frunction - 3/10/14 at 11:33am
post #28 of 62
The CW611 is a much better controller than the Touch, tho.a bit pricey.
They are basically the same thing. But the CW611 has 36w/channel versus 30 for the Touch.
And from what I am told, the ticking noise some people hear with some fans is no longer an issue with the CW611.
And it's auto function is improved and far better than the Touch.

You you could go for a manual Lamptron. A lot cheaper, but manual only.

And yes, you could tape your air sensor to a rad. Won't be as accurate but it can work just the same. I would cover up the sensor with something to prevent air reading mixed in with the water reading.

It is essentially the same as an inline or plug water sensor. But the water ones are not in contact with air, so they don't mix the air temp with water temp. Plug sensors are a bit cheaper, about half price from inline ones. And the ones that come with the controller, the air ones, are, well.....free!
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post #29 of 62
And other thing about controllers.
With an undervolting controller like thr Bitfenix, you have to worry about starting wattage. And the starting wattage for the SP120 is unknown to me. Corsair doesn't publish it. It's usually 2 to 4 times that of the rurring wattage. So for the SP120, my guess is 6 to 12 starting watts.
But with the Lamptron ones, you only need to worry about the running wattage.
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post #30 of 62
Starting wattage is only a major thing when the fan is switched instantly from standstill to full 12V. From what I vaguely remember the Recon and Lamptron both do that.
They are also both undervolting controllers. Sure the Lamptron might use a different method to deduce voltage but how would that affect starting draw of fans.

Why would a sensor taped to a rad be less accurate than a sensor attached to a brass fitting. The sensors that come with fan controllers aren't air sensors, they are designed to be taped to a surface.
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