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First time help - Will this all work?

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
Hey everyone, I recently joined overclock.net because I was planning to build my first custom water cooled loop, but got confused, especially when I saw most fittings were measured in inches (I live in Australia, so it's not something I'm familiar with) I want this to be a decent performing loop that can handle a minor CPU and GPU overclock, but still stay cool in 30+ degrees Celsius. It also needs work well if I add a second GPU. Here are the parts I picked out from pccasegear.com. (minus the GPU block which is from umart.com.au Milton store)

CPU block: Alphacool NexXxoS XP3 Light Black V2 $69
Tubing: Masterkleer Tubing PVC UV Reactive Pink 3/8ID 1/2OD 3m $19
Radiator: XSPC EX240 Radiator (dual 120mm) $49
Reservoir: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Reservoir $39
Pump: Phobya DC12-400 12V Pump $59
Straight fittings: Alphacool 13/10 Compression Fitting G1/4 Chrome (x5) $8/ea
90 degree fittings: Aqua Tuning 13/10mm Compression Fitting 90 Degree G1/4 Silver (x5) $6/ea
GPU comes with block pre-installed: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Hydro Copper $769

So the things I'm unsure about is; do all my components follow a standard for fittings, or is it like tubing and I have to get the right size screw end as well, will I be able to fit 2 90 degree fittings on that CPU block (if not can you please suggest one where I can), will a dual 120mm rad be enough or should I get a triple 120mm, I have heard a drop of dishwashing liquid will help to bleed it out, is this true, and is there anything else I need to add? I quickly made a plan of how I wanted it to go together in my case and will attach it.




It's a bit off topic, but could you also suggest a good pink LED light? I want to shine it through my res and light up the case
    
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post #2 of 38
The threaded side of fittings are a nearly universal "G1/4" - nearly every fitting/block/radiator you see will have G1/4 somewhere in it's listing. Fittings will say "G1/4 - 1/2 Compression" or something meaning it goes from the standard G1/4 threaded in the part, to a 1/2 inch compression style fitting. 1/2" is the most commonly used since it allows for the most unrestricted flow - just make sure all your fittings are the same size (1/2", 3/8", etc) and you'll be fine. Also, if you couldn't guess, this will be the size of your tubing.

A few other things:
1) You won't want a 90 from your CPU to GPU; a straight fitting, or ideally a 45 degree fitting will work better here.
2) I would highly recommend also getting a 120mm radiator for the back exhaust as well, over a single 360 rad in the top, I'd rather have the extra couple degrees a 120mm radiator takes off between the GPU(s) and CPU, than all at once. You can do a GPU and CPU on one 240mm Rad, but I definitely wouldn't want to do 2 GPUs and a CPU with only 1 radiator.
3) Make that front fan an intake. Front/bottom are always intake, top is always exhaust, rear is usually exhaust.

Hope that helps.
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post #3 of 38
Thread Starter 
Thanks so much for the feedback. I'll post an updated plan below

    
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post #4 of 38
Reverse the direction on the top rad to be exhaust. The rear fan would be an intake if it were my build, but either intake or exhaust would be within a degree or two difference.
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post #5 of 38
a 120mm rad will make almost no measurable difference to the water temp by placing it between the CPU and gpu. At a normal average flow rate it takes roughly 260 watts of cooling to lower water temp by a single degree C. There is simply no way for a small rad to do that unless it is like 30 degrees warmer than ambient or subjected to extreme airflow.
In this loop you could expect that putting a rad between CPU and gpu would make roughly 1/3 of a degree difference, under ideal circumstances, at full load. However, having the 240 rad feeding the 120 warmed air will cut that significantly. It would drop overall loop temp, though less than just using a larger rad up top.

As far as the system. I recently did some testing using just a 240 rad on very similar system. With a single set of 1350 rpm fans I was getting water temps roughly 17c above ambient after an hour if bf4. on a 30c day that translates to about 47c water / 57c gpu temps. Perfectly safe and acceptable temperatures.
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post #6 of 38
Thread Starter 
Okay then. So what do you think about adding a drop of dishwashing liquid to help bleed out the system, or will it reduce the overall lifetime of the loop? Also, can you please recommend some quiet fans to use on the rad? They don't have to be silent, just effective and quieter than the jet engine I use now.
    
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post #7 of 38
Thread Starter 
Okay then. So what do you think about adding a drop of dishwashing liquid to help bleed out the system, or will it reduce the overall lifetime of the loop? Also, can you please recommend some quiet fans to use on the rad? They don't have to be silent, just effective and quieter than the jet engine I use now.
    
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post #8 of 38
If I understand ya correctly .... you are doing this for a 4770k and GTX780.... with another one later on.

1. Figure 135 watts for the 4770k and 275 watts each for a moderate OC on the 780's;..... that's 685 watts with 2 780s and 410 watts for 1 780. Ya wanna be able to handle at least 60% of those loads for a delta T of 10C....that means if air temp is 22C, your coolant will be around 32C. Nothing wrong with going w/ higher Delta Ts as long as your goals for noise and component temps are being met. If ya OK with 15C, just cut this by a third.....ok w/ 20C, then cut by a half. I usually do 10C as 1) it's where I'd be "money not major concern" and 2) it makes the math easy smile.gif Looking at it another way ..... ya CPU has a vale of 1 at 135 watts and each GFX card has a value to 2 at 275 watts ....so whatever ya CPU needs, one GFX card needs twice that ... two GFX cards needs 4 times that.

2. 410 watts x 60% = 246 .... 685 watts x 60% = 411

3. A 240 rad is gonna be a little light. The Alphacool XT45-240 (highest scores among current models) scores just 148 watts in push / pull at 1250 rpm ..... 165 at 1400 rpm and 207 at a rather noisy 1800 rpm

4. A 360 rad does better. The Alphacool XT45-360 scores just 227 watts in push / pull at 1250 rpm ..... 247 at 1400 rpm and 311 at a rather noisy 1800 rpm. So the 360 will handle one 780 and CPU just fine @ 1400 rpm (247 vs 246) .....tho again, at moderate OCs.

5. Adding a 240 when ya get the 2nd GPU will provide another 165 watts which will give ya 412 watts. Looking at the 810 ...."Top 360/420mm and bottom 140/240mm radiator support", So yes, a 360 to start on top and a 240 on bottom when ya get the 2nd card.

6. For "going to the wall" on the overclocks and / or making ya system a little bit quieter (1250 rpm max, 350 - 850 rpm normal usage), you could use a 420 and 240. At 1400 rpm, you should be able to maintain a CPU max temp in the low - mid 70s at 4.5 / 4.6 Ghz and GPU temps of about 38C with 20% OC with 65-70F ambients

7. I'm measuring a 1.3C temperature drop across my top (420) rad.....so I routed my tubing from twin GFX cards (parallel) to the top rad, to the CPU / MoBo Block .... not a game changer but does put coolant on my CPU that is 1.3C cooler than it would be otherwise. I agree w/ Jackson that the 120 as you have shown it routed will only get ya about a quarter degree.

8. Remember 60% of the heat is being handled by the rads....so that leaves 40% inside ya case..... therefore you do not want to be cooling ya rads / coolant with interior case air and want to use outside air as you have shown.

9. The HC 780 block scored very, very poorly in testing. I'd strongly advise a Asus DCII 780 and matching EK water block....cheaper and far better performer.

10. I'd suggest Mayhems pastel over the dishwashing liquid if budget allows.

11. If ya grab a 420 for the Top, and ya like quiet ..... the Phantek's Sp140s are great and will match ya case nicely. The 420 should get ya about the same or better cooling at 1250 rpm as the 360 does with 1400.

http://phanteks.com/PH-F140SP.html

As for 120s....this works .... but a 120mm version of the above fan is due this month.
http://phanteks.com/PH-F120S.html

The Noiseblocker B12-2 and Gentle Typhoon 120-12' s and 120-14s are also excellent choices at 120mm
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post #9 of 38
It really isn't so much that 60% of cooling is done by rads and the rest by something else ( If my rads were only doing a bit over half my cooling I would want better rads ) its much more that people often over estimate just how much heat that components put into the loop to begin with.

As an example; The 240 testing I mentioned earlier with battlefield 4
This is with the CPU at 4.6 GHz and the GPU at 1200 Mhz


The power guages at the bottom measure the actual heat input from both devices using multiple water sensors combined with the flow sensor. The system has started to cool down slightly but you can see the max output recorded at the far end of the blue coloured arcs on each guage ... the blue arcs are the max and min recorded over the last 15 minutes.
As you can see ... about 210W for the GPU and 50W for the CPU. Sure each one can put out a bit more than that if running an artificial stress test but configuring a system based on that is just confusing.
These sensors aren't super accurate but do at least give an indication.
Edited by Jakusonfire - 3/3/14 at 6:01pm
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post #10 of 38
Thread Starter 
Well, I wasn't planning to OC as high as 4.6GHz, I was more thinking 4.0GHz, due to how hot my room is usually 30+ degrees Celsius. For the GPU I plan to get it close to a 780ti. I've read fairly decent reviews on the HydroCopper block, so I think I'll stick with that. My case can't it a 420mm rad, but I'm considering putting a 240mm rad in the front. But those fans are definitely something I'll be considering.
    
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