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Quick release couplings - smaller ID, should i worry? - Page 2

post #11 of 24
You don't need the adapter, you can buy a QD with a female G1/4 built in.
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post #12 of 24
Just wanted to thank you guys for this thread, today was the day that I started looking around for the final components for my system (barbs, hose clamps, hose ideas), and the extremerigs.net article really taught me a lot about something that I hadn't even considered in my build--quick disconnects.

$25+ per set for the QD3 is a little on the high side, but I guess it's worth the investment if it'll save me future headaches. Since this is my first water-cooling venture, I'm sure I'll be upgrading the pump and radiators within six months, and adding QDs to those two components will make it a lot easier down the road. I would have loved to have been able to use the QD4 system, but since my CPU cooler isn't compatible, I guess I'll have to wait to upgrade that to one that will biggrin.gif

Thanks, guys! thumb.gif
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post #13 of 24
I don't think using QDC's just because you plan on upgrading later makes much sense.
They are expensive and do add restriction to your loop.
It's not a big deal to flush your loop, and add those components later on.
And some would argue that 6 months is about the time to change your coolant anyway.
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post #14 of 24
So would you advise just using regular ol' barbs then? It would save me a ton of money :-)

I considered using compression barbs, but wasn't sure how easy it would to get the compression fitting off of the tube, or if it was even possible. I've read people saying they literally had to cut the tube itself...so does that mean that if something happens, that the compression fitting isn't re-usable? I am familiar with home plumbing and know what shark bites are, they're compression fittings for home plumbing systems, and they make a tool that makes it easier to remove the fitting when you need to. I haven't seen anything from any fitting maker that makes it easy to remove a compression fitting from a water loop.

I am considering adding a valve somewhere in my loop in order to make it easier to drain the system once it gets up and running. Everything I've read on this site always mentions the "noob" mistake of not adding a way to drain your loop.

I'm sure that I'm not the first watercooling noob that did something that made much sense smile.gif

One last thing, I do plan on using nothing more than distilled water and an additive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

I don't think using QDC's just because you plan on upgrading later makes much sense.
They are expensive and do add restriction to your loop.
It's not a big deal to flush your loop, and add those components later on.
And some would argue that 6 months is about the time to change your coolant anyway.
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post #15 of 24
Yeah, barbed fittings are cheaper. Most guys use compression ones because they don't like the look of barbs. Some also claim that barbs are unsafe and can come loose. But I'm sure a plumber would have enought sense.to install them right.

You can remove a tube from a compression fitting. Worst case is you heat it, or cut it and waste that 1-2 inch at the end of your tubing.

Just last week I redid the plumbing on a 40 year old bathroom sink and installed a new one. I'm pretty confident I can remove a compression fitting. And if I can, I know you can too.
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post #16 of 24
Not everyone who builds computers is manually inclined. I'm sure a plumber is.
If you can't pull you tube off your fitting, dip it in hot water for a while.
If that don't work, go get your propane torch.
If that don't work, cut the freaking tubing off.
It's not like that stuff is terribly expensive anyway.

Or just use barbs where you think you will be upgrading in 6 months.
If you use Moonson compression fittings, those are fairly affordable.
And I have no problems taking the tubes off of them.
Edited by PepeLapiu - 3/6/14 at 5:41pm
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post #17 of 24
About distilled and additives:

I would generally recommend against nickel plating on your blocks.
Some (not all) experience corrosion and/or flaking nickel.
And it just adds an other metal into the galvanic soup.
But if you go with nickel plating, I recommend an anti-corrosion additive just to be safe.
Algea can also be a problem. So a biocide as well.
Stay away from silver tho. PT Nuke or X1 maybe.
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post #18 of 24
If you have not ordered your QDC's yet you might want to consider this.
Most tubing is made on standard specs, not metric. So your 10mm ID tubes were most likely 3/8 inch spec converted to metric. That would be precisely 9.525mm. It is entirely possible, and most probable that the tubing guys rounded off to 10mm while the Koolance guys rounded off to 9mm.

So I would guess that the Koolance 3/8 ID fittings, which are actually 9.525mm ID, would fit your 10mm tubes, which are probably really 3/8 inch tubes.

Not saying here, just saying.
Edited by PepeLapiu - 3/9/14 at 12:02am
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post #19 of 24
Thread Starter 
Still haven't ordered and i must do this sometime, got my pcs sitting in the corner for a week now but other stuff got the priority smile.gif

I decided to go G1/4 QD + extension, so that i use my current 11mm ID fittings. And then i know the tube will also be fine as it was years now.

A couple questions before the shopping basket is complete:

1) What is the difference between this QD3 male and this one? The latter has a hexagon close to its G1/4.

2) Regarding the extensions, i think a 15, 20 or 25 mm would be enough for it to connect the QD and the fitting. I think 15 or the 20mm will be enough, I have to measure the lengths.

3) Do i need extra O-rings for the extension?
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post #20 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Athanasios View Post

Still haven't ordered and i must do this sometime, got my pcs sitting in the corner for a week now but other stuff got the priority smile.gif

I decided to go G1/4 QD + extension, so that i use my current 11mm ID fittings. And then i know the tube will also be fine as it was years now.

A couple questions before the shopping basket is complete:

1) What is the difference between this QD3 male and this one? The latter has a hexagon close to its G1/4.
The first one is a male QD with a male (outer) G 1/4 thread on the other side (QD3-MSG4-BK). The second one (QD3-MSFG4-P-BK) is a male QD with a female (inner) G 1/4 thread on the other side, also with an additional outer ring so you can panel mount it. This is what I was talking about in my last post when I said one of them should be a female G1/4. That means you can screw your fitting directly into it and do not need an extension.

Sometimes a picture explains better than words, so here is the picture from Koolance's product page that shows the female G 1/4 and the panel threads better. This is for the silver version since they don't have a corresponding picture for the black one.

LL

The panel mount is unnecessary for your application but over all it might look better and take up less space than if you added an adapter to the male G 1/4 version (QD3-MSG4-BK). Koolance also makes a QD fitting without the panel mount (QD3-MFG4), but only in silver.
Quote:
2) Regarding the extensions, i think a 15, 20 or 25 mm would be enough for it to connect the QD and the fitting. I think 15 or the 20mm will be enough, I have to measure the lengths.

As I said above, if you get the QD3-MSFG4-P-BK you do not need adapters or extenders, you can screw your own fitting right into the QD.

If you did get the QD3-MSG4-BK which has the male G 1/4 thread, those extenders you gave the links for are the wrong kind as they are all Male-Female G 1/4 extenders. Instead, you would need to get Female-Female G 1/4 extenders (also sometimes called connectors or adapters) in order to screw your own fitting in.
Quote:
3) Do i need extra O-rings for the extension?
No. They will come with O-rings.
Edited by threephi - 3/10/14 at 11:58am
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