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PSU opinion - Page 2

post #11 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by PsyM4n View Post

To the OP:

The PSU is good. The voltage, ripple and transient response should also be fine and within specs. The capacitors should be reliable and such and the unit can deliver its rated wattage without frying itself, even at ~100VAC.

If the unit blows up (any unit can do that) it has all kinds of related protection so it shouldn't take your hardware with it. So no need to worry about it. It even has proper rail distribution so there's little chance of overloading the cables (the unit will shut down before doing that).

Just read the manual before connecting everything so that you won't overload any of the rails by accident and make the system shutdown because of it.

If you've got it for cheap, it's a good buy. It's just not as efficient and exotic as offerings from some other companies.

Oh wow so its one of the few Seventeam units that are not bad
Seravee
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Seravee
(27 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core I7 6850K Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Kingston HyperX DDR4 Savage 3000 MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 Evo WD Green WD60EZRX  WD Red WD80EFZX 8TB  Seagate Ironwolf Pro 10 TB 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingOS
LG CH12NS30 x5 Noctua NF-A14 FLX Noctua NH-D15S Windows 7 64 Bit 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus PG279Q LG 49UH750V 4K LED TV Corsair Gaming Strafe RGB EVGA SuperNova G2 750 watt 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Roccat Kone EMP Roccat Sense Metor Sennheiser HD 598 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Onkyo TX NR646  Dali Opticon Vokal x2 Dali Opticon 2 x2 Dali Opticon 1 
AudioOtherOther
Dali E12 F Subwoofer CableMod E series PSU cable set CableMod LED Strips 
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post #12 of 24
I'm curious how much (in USD) this thing cost the OP. If we're talking $150-$175 or less for a 1400W PSU, if the thing tests as having decent enough voltage regulation and doesn't explode, it just might be good enough. =)

There are a few dissection reviews on the Silverstone branded variant of it, and it doesn't look that bad.

Greg
post #13 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PsyM4n View Post

To the OP:

The PSU is good. The voltage, ripple and transient response should also be fine and within specs. The capacitors should be reliable and such and the unit can deliver its rated wattage without frying itself, even at ~100VAC.

If the unit blows up (any unit can do that) it has all kinds of related protection so it shouldn't take your hardware with it. So no need to worry about it. It even has proper rail distribution so there's little chance of overloading the cables (the unit will shut down before doing that).

Just read the manual before connecting everything so that you won't overload any of the rails by accident and make the system shutdown because of it.

If you've got it for cheap, it's a good buy. It's just not as efficient and exotic as offerings from some other companies.

How do i know if i`m using the rails right? and how do i know if i`m using a single rail or multi rail? Is there a way?

The PSU did not come with a manual and e could not find nothing at the website, just the datasheet and the tech infos

Thanks again
post #14 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by wsarahan View Post

How do i know if i`m using the rails right? and how do i know if i`m using a single rail or multi rail? Is there a way?

The PSU did not come with a manual and e could not find nothing at the website, just the datasheet and the tech infos

Thanks again

Look on the side of the PSU where the Power rating is.

According to the website in your original post it's a single rail. If it has +12V2 , +12V3 , +12V4 etc. then it would be multiple rails whether the subscript is the number of the rail.

See this example with 8 rails



Also for your PSU, it's not 1400W since
Quote:
3) The maximum continuous combined load on +12V outputs shall not exceed 1260 Watts.

Edited by AlphaC - 3/8/14 at 2:26pm
post #15 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post

Look on the side of the PSU where the Power rating is.

According to the website in your original post it's a single rail. If it has +12V2 , +12V3 , +12V4 etc. then it would be multiple rails whether the subscript is the number of the rail.

See this example with 8 rails



Also for your PSU, it's not 1400W since

Take a look at mine:




And what about the voltage here? The multimeter says that my line is about 243... 245v, can this damage something? Because the normal is 220V and i know that always have some difference to more or less...

Thanks again my friend
post #16 of 24
Each 12V rail is 30Amps, so 30Amps x 12V = 360Watts

There's no CPU that draws that much and GPUs on air won't push that much either.

Do you have a surge protector or Uninterruptible power supply (UPS)? I'd plug the PSU into that.

I'm using a surge protector (that has a metal enclosure to reduce Electromagnetic interference / "EMI" ) with 14 gauge wiring that can handle 15Amps of 120V (1800W).
Edited by AlphaC - 3/8/14 at 2:50pm
post #17 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post

Each 12V rail is 30Amps, so 30Amps x 12V = 360Watts

There's no CPU that draws that much and GPUs on air won't push that much either.

Do you have a surge protector or Uninterruptible power supply (UPS)? I'd plug the PSU into that.

I'm using a surge protector (that has a metal enclosure to reduce Electromagnetic interference / "EMI" ) with 14 gauge wiring that can handle 15Amps of 120V (1800W).

I bought the surge protector and they will deliver for me tuesday

But forgetting the protector, should i worry about the multimeter says 245V and the PSU says MAx 240 and the website says 268....?

I really don`t know much about energy

Thanks
post #18 of 24
That's why there's
"PSU Protection Functions:OCP、OVP、UVP、OPP、SCP"

OCP= overcurrent protection (amps)
OVP= overvoltage protection (volts) <---
OPP= over power Protection (watts)
UVP = undervoltage protection (volts)
SCP = short circuit protection
post #19 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post

That's why there's
"PSU Protection Functions:OCP、OVP、UVP、OPP、SCP"

OCP= overcurrent protection (amps)
OVP= overvoltage protection (volts) <---
OPP= over power Protection (watts)
UVP = undervoltage protection (volts)
SCP = short circuit protection

So if the voltage goes to high, independent if it`s 240 like the stick or 268 like the site the PSU will desarm or protect the rig, am i right?

If yes so i should not worry about the 245V that my multimeter showed in my wall socket / jack?

Thanks again, you are really helping me, and sorry for disturbing you
post #20 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by wsarahan View Post

Take a look at mine:




And what about the voltage here? The multimeter says that my line is about 243... 245v, can this damage something? Because the normal is 220V and i know that always have some difference to more or less...

Thanks again my friend

You're fine on voltage. There's two kinds of voltage measurements -- peak AC voltage, and RMS (average) voltage. Your RMS voltage will be lower. 243-245v peak is what you'd expect to see on a 220v RMS rated circuit. You need a more expensive multi-meter to measure true RMS voltage (my $300 Fluke will, LOL).

That's a 6-rail PSU. Ignore the claims in the sale ad saying it's single-rail, the sticker clearly shows it's not. You MIGHT be able to find some documentation by contacting Seventeam (I hope you speak Chinese) showing which connectors route to which rails.

Greg
Edited by hammong - 3/8/14 at 4:45pm
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