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"Broken" Mouse? Wheel issues? Finicky buttons? Fix it! (Or at least, I did)

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Copied directly from my recent post in "The Deathadder Megathread":
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post

So, my scroll wheel on my "Original in BE's Skin" Deathadder finally started to fritz out on me about 3 days ago. Scrolling in either direction would sometimes either just shake the screen, or scroll the wrong way. Today it got to the point that the wheel was pretty much 100% unusable.

The wheel and all associated components are from my 2007 3G model, and have been used for over 20 thousand hours.

Took the mouse apart, removed and cleaned the wheel, use some DeOxit D5 on the wheel encoder assembly, reseated the wheel, put it back together, annnnnnd...

Good as freaking new. thumb.gif

This guy just keeps going. Hopefully this helps some of you guys with mouse wheel issues. I know it is a very commonly reported issue without much of a successful fix rate, and this is the first time I've had a chance to experience and thus take a crack at solving it myself.

Same stuff has fixed sticky/multi-clicking Cherry MX Blue mechanical keyboard switches.

In the past, I've fixed an issue with broken side buttons on a mouse with a dab of super glue.

A few years ago, I fixed a friend's Naga that had a "broken" right click by simply cleaning it out.

If you're willing to solder/desolder, you can fix even more issues.


I constantly hear people reporting the same issues with their mice (and keyboards), and tossing the things out, or even blacklisting the entire company because of the experience. On the few occasions I get similar issues (which for whatever reason usually take about 10 times as long to develop for me as they do for others), they are usually fixable with minimal effort, and in doing so I come to realize that the problem isn't unique to the design of a particular product at all.

If the wheel encoder in my 7 year old Deathadder can be fixed with some contact cleaner and lube for instance, that pretty much goes for any other mechanical wheel encoder. It is a matter of flushing out whatever debris you happened to get in there, which will eventually happen with any mouse that isn't hermetically sealed (so, pretty much all of them).


Point is, there is a pretty good chance your "broken/defective/garbage" mouse (or keyboard, or whatever) just need a quick cleaning, a tightening of screws, a little lube, or in the worst case a quick glue and/or solder job. If you still have a warranty and don't want to void it that is fair enough, but otherwise what do you have to lose by opening it up and spending 30 seconds attempting a highly likely fix?
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post #2 of 16
Scrolling problems are usually dirt on the encoder, those are obviously easy to fix. This however isn't the case with defective buttons, you can't take them apart and clean them.
post #3 of 16
I used WD40 for my Imperator mouse which had a double click problem.
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post #4 of 16
Im thinking the switches on my old RAT 5 are going out the door, is there a replacement switch I can purchase or are they simply a signal sent from the switch and can be universal? I see a lot of Omron switches on ebay
    
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post #5 of 16
As long as you're comfortable with a soldering iron, then you're good to go. Pretty much all mouse switches on the main buttons are interchangeable as far as I know.
post #6 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by DivineDark View Post

As long as you're comfortable with a soldering iron, then you're good to go. Pretty much all mouse switches on the main buttons are interchangeable as far as I know.

If thats all I need then I shouldnt have much issue. I think I have one at my sisters place
    
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post #7 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnrtb View Post

Scrolling problems are usually dirt on the encoder, those are obviously easy to fix. This however isn't the case with defective buttons, you can't take them apart and clean them.

You can in fact take apart the microswitches in most gaming mice. If they are omron or huano switches, you just pop a latch and they open right up (similar to a Cherry MX, but with a leaf instead of a coil spring)

At any rate, half the time a switch doesn't even need mechanical fixing, just some flushing with contact cleaner and a little lube afterwards. If you DO need to do some physical manipulation of it, and it can't be easily serviced (those little pesky buckling dome switches for instance), you can always solder on a new one.
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post #8 of 16
Never tried it, wouldn't soldiering a replacement button require a 0.1 mm accuracy to get the old feel of the button ?
post #9 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnrtb View Post

Never tried it, wouldn't soldiering a replacement button require a 0.1 mm accuracy to get the old feel of the button ?

No, not really. .5mm or even 1mm is a reasonable tolerance for most mouse microswitches. You can't really solder them into the wrong places anyway though, as they typically are soldered through predesignated holes in the PCB as opposed to surface mounted.
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post #10 of 16
lol of course, but you can put them slightly too low and if the button (not the switch) has a short movement it might feel not good to click it because of the wrong distance.
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