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Any advice? (Update: Installed the XSPC kit)

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Update
I got it installed just fine but it took me several hours.

The instruction booklet was not as helpful as it could be and it wasn't even designed for the specific kit I purchased. For instance the booklet said to turn the "spacers" (used to elevate the rad) a certain way to make them fit with 120mm spaces but my kit was a 140mm kit. Took me awhile to realise that it didn't convert from 140mm to 120mm but instead the booklet was designed for 120mm.
It also didn't explain the fact that you have to take apart the compression bits so that one piece fits on the block and the other piece fits on the tube then screws in to the block piece. They originally come as just one piece and I was stumped for a little while how the tube would even stay or fit on to the whole compression piece.
Another thing was it didn't say to keep the nut on the cpu block screw all the way up so that you can actually get the screw to screw into the backplate.

With that said, the booklet was extremely helpful, just not as thorough or specific as I thought it would be for such a high amount of dollars spent.

Cutting the tube was difficult with a box cutter, but it was doable.

The rad didn't fit all into my case like I thought it would. I knew the spacings would be off but the entire rad is encased by a larger outer shell that makes it much bigger. So big that it would not fin inside my case. The inlet/outlet part where the tube connects are much more towards the edge, so they block the rad from even being able to sit up on top of the case. Fortunately the kit includes "spacers" that elevate the rad, so I was able to get it connected to the top of the case but up higher.

The CPU block was a pain in the royal tush to install. The actual block just sits inside the outer shell that is used to clamp it down to the backplate and secure it. So when you try to install it any other way but vertically down, the block will fall out of the shell. The booklet also mentioned to just push in on the backplate and it will stay there but it doesn't. It falls out every time, meaning you cant screw in the block. So I had to set the case down horizontal, put socks up under it to hold the backplate in. Then I installed the block vertically downwards so the block didn't fall out of the shell.

Enough of the bad now, though.

Here's the awesome:

Noise
Wow. Did not think it would be this quiet. The really quiet low rpm fans make more noise than the pump does. Infact the only noise I can hear is a high pitch whine that is probably a "coil whine" on my gpu.

Temps
Even more impressed. Even going from a watercooler H100i to another watercooler dropped my temps around 20c.

.........................Idle.......|.....Load
.................H100i: 27 29 31 26 | 65 71 74 68
XSPC Raystorm D5 EX280: 24 28 29 26 | 49 55 55 51


Aesthetics
Every parts looks very nice and well built.

Side Notes
The reservoir is much smaller than I thought. It held much much less water than I expected. Used less than half a gallon of distilled water. I bought 3 gallons just in case but I would have been fine with 2 gallons even still "just in case".




Just bought a XSPC Raystorm D5 - EX 280 for my PC (parts in sig) and will be replacing the H100i (which is a piece of junk to be honest).

Any advice for me? I know almost nothing about custom watercooling.

It came with free Biocidal drops. Going to put 1 drop into the loop.
Going to by a couple gallons of distilled water at the grocery store to fill it with.

I have a box cutter from work to cut the tubing.

Pretty sure I will have to drill a couple holes to allow the spacing of the 280mm rad to fit on my case.

I have Arctic MX-2 to use as TIM.

Just don't want to mess this up. Was a huge purchase for me.
Edited by kennyparker1337 - 3/13/14 at 5:29pm
post #2 of 9
This site and YouTube are your best friends biggrin.gif

I was just like you about two weeks ago, and now, through the power of the watercooling threads on this site and YouTube videos, I feel like I'm on top of the world LOL.

Do a lot of lurking, ask questions (even if you feel like they are dumb questions!) most of the guys on here are pretty cool.

Do a lot of searching on manufacturer websites (EK, XSPC, Koolance, etc.) become familiar with stuff like the different types of connector fittings, pumps, reservoirs, etc. Compare them all, read their reviews (especially on this site as these parts are used by people here and you get true, real-world opinions unlike Amazon or manufacturer sites!)

Don't feel like you have to "splurge" on parts either, you can buy used parts from people on this site, and there are plenty of cheaper alternatives available for everything. Use barbs instead of compression fittings, use distilled water instead of brand-name cooling liquids. If you want to keep costs down, do a lot of comparisons and shop around. One thing that I've found is that buying parts directly from the manufacturer usually means that you're paying a lot more on shipping costs. Use Amazon, Ebay, Newegg and you will save a ton of money on shipping costs.

Best thing to keep in mind is not to be afraid--everybody does something catastrophic at least once LOL.
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post #3 of 9
You won't need a couple gallons of distilled. One well be more than enough to fill and drain multiple times. I've been running mine with Wal-Mart distilled water and 2 drops of the Dead Water that came with it for 4 months now. I do want to add a corrosion inhibitor though and will probably include it on my next parts order.

Anything specific youre looking for info on? My only suggestion would be to read the instructions well. These kits come with a great instruction booklet. Make sure to check all fittings and screws for tightness. Do a thorough leak test inside your case with the motherboard removed.
Edited by RX7-2nr - 3/10/14 at 7:27am
post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
Just looking for specific advice on anything you guys noticed while installing.

Like you said, adding 2 drops? I'll probably do that to be sure.
Also only getting 1 gallon of water is nice.

Didn't know these kits came with good instruction booklets. Most things I buy don't come with anything that helps.

I'm not really sure how compression fittings work and how exactly to cut the tube to fit nicely.

My case has only 3 - 5" slots and I'm currently using 2. Looks like I will need to remove 1 item to fit the double slot reservoir.
post #5 of 9
I'd say you do need about 1 gallon of distilled water, but you will mainly use it to do your final cleaning of your parts before installing it. When your new parts come, just flush it out really well with hot tap water in the bath tub or what ever and do your final flush with just distilled water is good enough. I would however not suggest using distilled water with deadwater only in your loop. I recently had a leak due to corrosion in my loop. The corrosion took a few years to set in, but did eventually leak and took out a few hundred $ worth of components with it. Even though you plan your loop to be 100% copper, there will always be some mixed metals in your loop due to solder, joints or what ever. Personally i have no idea what type of fluid to recommend you, but i was recommended Mayhems X1, so now I'm trying that out... its only been a week or so, but looking good. You should always do a leak test, but you don't have to remove your motherboard or any other components to do so. Just unplug everything lay some paper towels around where there can be some possible leaks, or just tie paper towels around your fittings, and jump your 24 pin with a paperclip or short piece of wire to start your psu. (never leave your psu on without anything connected to it, so plug in a fan or light or something.) i think the xspc kit even comes with a 24pin jumper clip too.
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post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hell167 View Post

I'd say you do need about 1 gallon of distilled water, but you will mainly use it to do your final cleaning of your parts before installing it. When your new parts come, just flush it out really well with hot tap water in the bath tub or what ever and do your final flush with just distilled water is good enough. I would however not suggest using distilled water with deadwater only in your loop. I recently had a leak due to corrosion in my loop. The corrosion took a few years to set in, but did eventually leak and took out a few hundred $ worth of components with it. Even though you plan your loop to be 100% copper, there will always be some mixed metals in your loop due to solder, joints or what ever. Personally i have no idea what type of fluid to recommend you, but i was recommended Mayhems X1, so now I'm trying that out... its only been a week or so, but looking good. You should always do a leak test, but you don't have to remove your motherboard or any other components to do so. Just unplug everything lay some paper towels around where there can be some possible leaks, or just tie paper towels around your fittings, and jump your 24 pin with a paperclip or short piece of wire to start your psu. (never leave your psu on without anything connected to it, so plug in a fan or light or something.) i think the xspc kit even comes with a 24pin jumper clip too.

Did you have mixed metal parts?
post #7 of 9
Nope. All was all planned to be all copper.

here is a link to that leak
http://www.overclock.net/t/1465928/sigh

But dont let that put you off. With a little know how Watercooling is the next best thing to sliced cheese lol. Just don't cheap out on the important stuff cuz it will make you spend more money in the long rung. Since then i made 1 more mistake of using antifreeze, but have since switched over to Mayhem X1 in my rebuild.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1470441/build-log-desk-build-done
Edited by hell167 - 3/10/14 at 9:16am
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post #8 of 9
You don't have to remove the motherboard, but then again you don't have to even leak test to begin with. It'a just a good idea to do both.
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

You don't have to remove the motherboard, but then again you don't have to even leak test to begin with. It'a just a good idea to do both.

Not saying he shouldn't test just saying he doesn't have to remove the motherboard. He can test as long has his mobo isn't plugged in even a drip or 2 of water won't hurt it, but if there is a leak just don't plug the mobo in until its completely dry. And that's what the paper towel is for to catch it before it hits the mobo. But guess its also a personal preference too and sometimes you just don't have the room to pull or put back the mobo.
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My System
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OCZ Vertex Turbo 60GB WDGREEN XSPC RayStorm CPU WaterBlock XSPC AX240 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK XTC140 D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Swiftech mcp655 RayStorm GPU 
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Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000 
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Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
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XSPC RX360 SWIFTECH Apogee XT Swiftech MCR140QP XSPC Raystorm GPU 
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