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Ram Suddenly stopped working

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Hey guys, been getting more and more into computer building lately, and I decided to go with a black and white build.

Anyway, I read up that spray painting ram heatsinks is a quick, easy way to colour match your computer, without having to send $200 on a new set.

So today, I did that. I removed the heatsinks and left the sticks of ram on the table. After reinstalling the ram - the computer would boot (led's would come on, fans would spin) but nothing would come up on the monitor.

After trial and error, I've realised that only 8GB of my 16GB ripjaws are working. I've tested all the slots on my new Z87 Sabertooth monitor and they all work.

I've reset bios to defualt settings. I'd like to memcheck the Ram but I can't as the computer wont get to BIOS with the 'faulty' ram sticks installed.

When the faulty ones are installed I get the red memory error light on the motherboard.

I don't really see what the issue could be? Seems a little strange that two of my ram sticks could just at once.

Any ideas guys? I'm at a loss. Did I stuff up? frown.gif
Edited by Samahs1994 - 3/11/14 at 7:09am
post #2 of 7
It could be static discharge damaged them or even flexing the PCB while removing the sinks.

Take a pink eraser and polish the gold contacts on each of the malfunctioning sticks in case it's just oxidation. Also, remove the heatinks and try them without, just in case there's a short.
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post #3 of 7
It's funny (sort of) cause mine have recently done the same, if you use the mem-ok button it should get you into bios or even windows. Or change to your secondary bios and mine worked fine for a few days then stopped again. I changed back to the first bios and they have been working fine for the last week. Worth a try.
Edited by Rbby258 - 3/11/14 at 8:08am
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post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
I'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rbby258 View Post

It's funny (sort of) cause mine have recently done the same, if you use the mem-ok button it should get you into bios or even windows. Or change to your secondary bios and mine worked fine for a few days then stopped again. I changed back to the first bios and they have been working fine for the last week. Worth a try.

Thanks! I'll try that. I've clicked the memtest button before but I'll give it another shot tomorrow. How do you get into your secondary bios and all that stuff? I'm new to this biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastMHz View Post

It could be static discharge damaged them or even flexing the PCB while removing the sinks.

Take a pink eraser and polish the gold contacts on each of the malfunctioning sticks in case it's just oxidation. Also, remove the heatinks and try them without, just in case there's a short.

I'll try the oxidisation thing tomorrow! Thanks a lot. If they are infact damaged there's not a lot I can do is there? Just learn from my mistake I guess. Costly mistake frown.gif
post #5 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Samahs1994 View Post

I'
I'll try the oxidisation thing tomorrow! Thanks a lot. If they are infact damaged there's not a lot I can do is there? Just learn from my mistake I guess. Costly mistake frown.gif

Unfortunately, if it was electrostatic discharge or a broken trace due to flexed PCB, there is no DIY repair you can do.
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GAMINGEVOLVED
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16TB_MININAS
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-6350 FX-Series 6-Core Black Edition ASRock MB-990EX4 Socket AM3 / AMD 990FX/ AMD Qu... XFX Radeon 390X 4x (16gb) CORSAIR XMS3 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM D... 
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A swappable SSD for each OS (Win7, Mac, Linux) Kingston SSDNow 120GB Eluktronics 1TB SSD ASUS 18X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe and ... 
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ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2, CPU Cooler - Intel... Windows7, Mac & Linux Insignia 32" LED 1080p HDTV (32D512NA15)  Rosewill Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Blu... 
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CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS... AZZA Toledo 301 (CSAZ-301) Black SECC Steel ATX... Logitech MX 518 High Performance Optical Gaming... Oversized 17-1/4 x 13-3/4 
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post #6 of 7
For the mem ok button make sure the pc is off and just hold it until the system powers up. As for bios switch it depends on if your board has 2 bios chips. You would have to look it up or look in the manual.
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post #7 of 7
How did you remove the heatsinks? Because it's not that difficult to break the solder joints of BGA chip packages in the process, as some reviewers learned when they tried to show readers the chips hiding beneath. Did you slice through the glue or tape holding the heatsinks, or did you pry? Prying can be really bad, especially when it's between the heatsink and circuit board, rather than between the heatsink and tops of the chips, but even the latter is risky and shouldn't be done without first slicing through the adhesive with a thin razor to help the joints break easier. Also 3M makes chemicals for the auto body industry for dissolving adhesives safely.

Zapped chips are goners for sure, but you may be able to fix broken solder. You should be able to check the solder joints by placing a clothespin over each chip or pair of opposite chips, then turning on the power. Test only one DIMM at a time. If there's any change at all in the memory count, then the solder is bad (or a copper pad has ripped off -- very hard to fix). Don't move around the clothespins except with the power turned off with the rear switch or by unplugging the AC cord because you don't want even the standby +5V to be running.

If you decide to try fixing the solder by reflowing the DIMMs, carefully remove the heatsinks and any labels, and place the DIMM perfectly horizontal so no surface mount parts slide off. Use an adjustable heat gun or completely preheated oven. Don't use an aluminum pan with a heat gun because it can easily melt. Also set your pan on something fireproof, like a concrete driveway or thick bricks. Use a thermometer. Apparently you need at least 240 Celcius (link). There are YouTube videos about doing reflow jobs in a toaster oven, but many are by overconfident idiots who aren't very careful.
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