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There are lights but the computer is not working working?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Hello!

If I post in the wrong thread. I would to apologize in advance. I have no idea where to post this because the amount of issues I have with my system. To start, here is what I have:
  • Maximus VI Hero (motherboard)
  • Corsair AX860i (Digital ATX Power Supply/Alimentation Digitable ATX/860 Watt/80 Plus Platinum)
  • Intel Core i5 Processor (i5-4670K)
  • Sniper (G.Skill)
  • Evga (GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost)
  • Samsung 250 GB Evo SSD
  • Mercury S8 Case Lab Case

I have read the manuals, research online, and ask my husband to help me out on putting the system together but for some reason my power supply is not functioning (fan is not circling) with my computer case power and reset button not lighting up. The motherboard is on (the start and reset buttons are lighting up) but nothing is happening? Before I put my system together, I self tested my power supply by pressing the self test button and the green light turned on. After I connected the cables to my system, the power supply did not light up when I self tested it again.

I will post photo's later.
post #2 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by LovelyMint View Post

Hello!

If I post in the wrong thread. I would to apologize in advance. I have no idea where to post this because the amount of issues I have with my system. To start, here is what I have:
  • Maximus VI Hero (motherboard)
  • Corsair AX860i (Digital ATX Power Supply/Alimentation Digitable ATX/860 Watt/80 Plus Platinum)
  • Intel Core i5 Processor (i5-4670K)
  • Sniper (G.Skill)
  • Evga (GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost)
  • Samsung 250 GB Evo SSD
  • Mercury S8 Case Lab Case

I have read the manuals, research online, and ask my husband to help me out on putting the system together but for some reason my power supply is not functioning (fan is not circling) with my computer case power and reset button not lighting up. The motherboard is on (the start and reset buttons are lighting up) but nothing is happening? Before I put my system together, I self tested my power supply by pressing the self test button and the green light turned on. After I connected the cables to my system, the power supply did not light up when I self tested it again.

I will post photo's later.

 

This PSU has a special design where the fan will only spin when it's needed, and it will spin only as fast as needed.

 

Do you have the stand-offs screwed into the motherboard tray? These are the little screw-like things that screw into the motherboard tray, and these are what you screw the motherboard screws into. They separate the motherboard from the metal of the computer case.

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 7
Other things you can try after you confirm the motherboard underside is not sitting directly on the case and shorting-out due to lack of stand-offs: look for the bios reset switch in the motherboard manual, it typically is near the button cell battery or it can have a dedicated bios reset button somewhere. Reset the bios, try again.

Also double check, then triple-check the connections from the motherboard to the power and reset buttons on the case (better yet, yank them all out and do them all over again), if you don't find anything wrong try swapping the reset and the power buttons wires (if possible) and power the computer by pressing the reset button, maybe there is something physically wrong with the power button itself or it's wires.
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
UPDATE::


My husband and I moved the cable connected to USB3_12 slightly and magically started working (well kind of working). We watch everything turn on for about half a second and then the motherboard displayed a code 18. We then switched the power and reset pins and then motherboard displayed a code 13 and continually displayed code 13.

Referring to hexaq, there may have been something funny going on with the wires. What do I do at this point?
post #5 of 7
I'd try disconnecting all the front panel cables except for the power switch and maybe reset switch because it's possible one of them is shorting to ground, especially any related to USB.

Indicator LEDs not lighting up may simply mean their connections are backward, but that can't cause a short that prevents computer operation.

Because the power supply is digitally controlled, I assume that the green self test light really does indicate that all the voltages are OK. OTOH you may want to get a cheap digital voltage meter to verify that the self test does that. And are the voltages good under load at the motherboard connectors? Because for some reason, in the past two years I've had many PSUs from Corsair and Antec (different manufacturers) not work when first plugged in, but after I plugged and unplugged the connectors several times, everything ran fine.

A computer running for just one second and then turning off is a sign of a short or lack of a voltage, and the most common shorts are to chassis. Those standoffs mentioned by TwoCables and Hexaq: are they all installed only at the mounting holes of the motherboard and nowhere else? Because a standoff that doesn't line up with any mounting hole can easily short the motherboard or even crack (destroy) tiny surface mount parts
post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 
UPDATE::

Okay, I fix the code 13 (pre-memory CPU initialization is started). It turns out the mini wires to the system panel connector were not straight enough for the motherboard to properly read. After that quick fix, my motherboard display code 00 (which represent "not used") and it started to beep every 3 seconds nonstop to where my computer screen blinks along with the noise. After disconnecting and reconnecting ALL the wires to figure out how to stop the noise. I started to unscrew the motherboard COMPLETELY (read an article that screwing the motherboard to the case (even slightly) can damage pins underneath) and everything started to turn on. The fans started spinning and the motherboard glowed red (it was sooo pretty~). Now, the code is displaying 99 (Super IO Initialization). I connected my disk drive to the one of the connector of SATA6 first with the power supply and the code 99 continues to show then I tried the bottom connector of the SATA6 and it still continues to show code 99 (soon after I started to try out ALL of them and still continue to get code 99). After researching on what to do and asking my husband for help. After 2-3 hours switching, reconnecting, and connecting the cords to get rid of code 99. Eventually, my husband removed the graphics card, the second sniper, and correctly place the connection to the disk drive to the correct connector before connecting an hdmi cable to the case and our television to see what will display on the screen and next thing we know the BIOS setup appeared! Everything is now functioning 95% thanks to you guys and my husband.
Now for the last bit. Once we installed the graphics card, remaining parts, installed windows, drivers, and ran windows update the resolution had to be adjusted the resolution could be in the parameters of our old monitor. My husband adjusted the resolution using the nvidia control panel, and then by using windows 8.1 control panel. Now when the computer turns on the tv display works for the initial load, then the screen turns black and the cables need to be switched to see the login screen. Once logged both screens are now black on the monitor and on the tv. Any help with this new issue would be appreciated.
post #7 of 7

Big giant wall of text. Hard to read.

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
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