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EK issues, need help please! n00b alert!!

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
hi guys,

I haven't done a wc setup in over 12 years but I thought I'd give it another shot since it went so well for me back then.

I have been in leak Hell for 2 days. I set up 3 Visontek Cryovenom 290 gpus (come stock with EK 290 blocks and backplates) with 1/2 x 3/4 tubing and Monsoon compression fittings (Swiftech MCP655-B, UT60, 150mm Phobya rez).

Initially, I rigged the 3 cards with an EK-FC Z77 Parallel Triple Terminal. I was very careful about placement of the O-rings and sure not to tighten the screws more than 1/8 of a turn past the snug/catch feel of the screw rotation.

Leaks.

The top card was fine and dry. I was able to stop the leaking of the bottom card by adjusting the screw tensions. The middle block otoh, wouldn't stop dripping, generally toward the center of the terminal and sometimes through one or two of the screw holes (there are 3 per card/block, side by side). The leaks through the screw holes would cease if I tightened the screws slightly but then the terminal connection would increase leak flow.

I stopped by Home Depot to get slightly thicker O-rings but they are too thick to keep the oblong circular shape that the terminal grooves require.

I tore down the terminal/card assembly and, in the process of reassembly, applied a tiny bit of silicon grease to the O-rings.

Upon reassembly, both the top and bottom cards were leak free but, once again, the middle card wouldn't stay leak-free. I got it to where it would well up maybe 1/2 a drop every 10 minutes but that is still unacceptable.

I tore down the system again. This time, I removed the top card (which had not leaked at all either time), removed the triple terminal, replaced the stock single terminals, and fitted the circuit into a series configuration. The middle card (which was the leaking card in the 3-card config) was now the top card. Again, it leaks. I can, once again, get it to only well 1/2 a drop of water every 10 minutes or so but the middle screw was only barely threaded into the catch point...any further tightening and it produces a steady drip leak. I attempted numerous adjustments of screw tension while the circuit was active since tightening one end down raises the other side, albeit minutely.

I'm getting a bit frustrated, but am preparing a third tear-down. I will replace the top card which has leaked all three times with the previous top card, which had not leaked at all, to see whether that might work.

I'm convinced that I'm doing something wrong, but what?
post #2 of 15
are you assembling the terminal and gpu blocks outside of the case or are the gpu's installed to the motherboard when you install the terminal?
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post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

are you assembling the terminal and gpu blocks outside of the case or are the gpu's installed to the motherboard when you install the terminal?

Assembly takes place outside the case, then the card assembly goes into the case. Before the first tear-down, I loosened the screws and retightened in a star-pattern but that made the leaks worse.

What do you think?
post #4 of 15
dont really have an idea. gathering information for someone else to come in and help...
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post #5 of 15
I wrapped my fittings with some tephlon tape before I screwed them in. Could be that the threads on either the terminal or the fittings are slightly stripped so its not giving a full seal?
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post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toan View Post

I wrapped my fittings with some tephlon tape before I screwed them in. Could be that the threads on either the terminal or the fittings are slightly stripped so its not giving a full seal?

Hmm.

The terminals aren't threaded (except for the G 1/4, which hasn't been an issue), so no issues there I don't think. I have been super conservative about block thread tightness and haven't had any issues with threads catching.

Thanks for the suggestion!
Edited by elicious - 3/15/14 at 5:43pm
post #7 of 15
there arent fittings going from the terminal to the gpu blocks. the only fittings on the terminal are in out ports to and from the other components. you can say the terminal acts as a block.



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post #8 of 15
I'd recommend setting up an external loop for a bit of troubleshooting. Remove the blocks from the cards and attach them to the bridge as you normally would, ensuring all of the o-rings are in identical condition. Do some leak testing, outside your case and let me know what you find. Photos are always helpful too smile.gif my apologies for the difficulties.
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post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by derickwm View Post

I'd recommend setting up an external loop for a bit of troubleshooting. Remove the blocks from the cards and attach them to the bridge as you normally would, ensuring all of the o-rings are in identical condition. Do some leak testing, outside your case and let me know what you find. Photos are always helpful too smile.gif my apologies for the difficulties.

Thanks for the suggestion! But...

I think that removing the blocks from the Cryovenom cards would actually void the warranty on the cards, which is totally ironic lol.

Any other suggestions before I tear it down and rebuild again?
post #10 of 15
omg lol. this visiontek's warranty

*Warranty can be voided if product not used in manner intended for a graphics card. Intended product use is specifically designed for graphical processing and visual output to a display or multiple displays. Most common applications include gaming, multi-media play-back, video production & editing, and output to display or multiple displays. Additionally, damage caused by tampering, user error, inadequate or defective power supply/power application, disaster, misuse, neglect, abuse, accident, alteration, repair, modification, a fix or replacement by an unauthorized technician that in any way affects the graphics card performance or reliability may also void warranty coverage.

lay that terminal on a guaranteed flat surface. theres a good possibility it may have warped somehow. use a straight edge and check it all different areas across the port side.
best i can think of.
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