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post #111 of 10727
with this fan there is a readout.. so its the pump and not the A6
post #112 of 10727
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chimaychanga View Post

Yes I swapped between port 2 and 3.. pump is still not showing any RPM

Ill try out that stock intel fan and see what it says..

its this one

If the Intel fan gives an rpm reading on a PWM chan, it must be in the pump or wire.



I forgot about that cooler for the E series. . . you so seldom ever see it.

D.
post #113 of 10727
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

If the Intel fan gives an rpm reading on a PWM chan, it must be in the pump or wire.



I forgot about that cooler for the E series. . . you so seldom ever see it.

D.

I actually bought it separately for testing of DOAs prior to watercooling all my components

So whats next smile.gif any ideas ?

i guess ill have to do the mod with an extension cable to see if the pump is faulty ?
Edited by chimaychanga - 3/17/14 at 4:59pm
post #114 of 10727
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chimaychanga View Post

with this fan there is a readout.. so its the pump and not the A6

At least you can control the pump now, and you know the A6 is OK.

You can troubleshoot the blue wire whenever you decide to.

You might as the Swiftech rep, BramSLI1 if he can help, if you don't sleuth it out yourself.


D.
post #115 of 10727
Ok. Its getting late here.. ill give it try again tomorrow. Thanks again for all your help smile.gif
post #116 of 10727
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chimaychanga View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

If the Intel fan gives an rpm reading on a PWM chan, it must be in the pump or wire.



I forgot about that cooler for the E series. . . you so seldom ever see it.

D.

I actually bought it separately for testing of DOAs prior to watercooling all my components

So whats next smile.gif any ideas ?

i guess ill have to do the mod with an extension cable to see if the pump is faulty ?


If it were me, I'd pop the back off the pump and check the blue wire from pump pcb to pin for continuity with a multimeter. . . . .

But you don't have a lot of equipment at you disposal yet.


Did it give an rpm readout before you could control it . . . . (before starting the mod)

There's nothing the mod could do electrically to effect the tach signal, except to break the wire or something from pulling it out of the connector or something similar of a physical nature.


D.
post #117 of 10727
I actually had a reading of the RPM in the ASUS AI suite.. but for some reason the other day before modding it I couldnt get an RPM signal also

and popping the cap on the pump means emptying the loop once again poke.gif

Ill dig deeper in to it tomorrow..
Edited by chimaychanga - 3/17/14 at 5:16pm
post #118 of 10727
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chimaychanga View Post

I actually had a reading of the RPM in the ASUS AI suite.. but for some reason the other day before modding it I couldnt get an RPM signal also

and popping the cap on the pump means emptying the loop once again poke.gif

Ill dig deeper in to it tomorrow..



That looks like your answer . . . . .

If you take the pump out maybe you can take it to school to check the wire and show off your mod. biggrin.gif


D
post #119 of 10727
Thats a great idea biggrin.gif

Goodnight Darlene tongue.gif
post #120 of 10727

So i didn't bother posting about the ribbon cable i received this morning, since it's not working yet. The Plug & Socket on the cable fit perfectly on the Aquaero's headers, but the lcd isn't powering on. 

 

Not sure yet if this is because i went with the 1' cable, still gonna test a bit by moving one one of the connectors further down the ribbon cable

 

I still need to test all the connections for continuity, but considering they sent this 1' ribbon cable in a box that could ship a motherboard with insane packaging (that ended up costing 6x the price of the cable), i doubt i'm gonna find any issue's with the cable itself

 

I'm wondering if any one or combination of the 24pins need to modded to boost the signal. Also wondering if @Shoggy might be feeling generous enough to shed some light on which pins/solder points those might be.

 

Just a reminder that what i'm trying to do is split the main pcb from the lcd by connecting them with a ribbon cable instead of plugging them right into each other

    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4930k Rampage IV Black Edition w/EK Clean CSQ Block PowerColor 290x BF4 (2 More Coming) G Skill Trident X 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Silverstone Slotload Bluray Burner EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Alphacool XT45 360 XSPC EX360 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
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Silverstone FP58 Thermaltake Max 5 Duo Phobya 6 x 16mm Vandal Switch Plate  6 x 16mm Vandal Switches (ModSmart & Lamptron) 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4930k Rampage IV Black Edition w/EK Clean CSQ Block PowerColor 290x BF4 (2 More Coming) G Skill Trident X 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Silverstone Slotload Bluray Burner EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Alphacool XT45 360 XSPC EX360 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool ST30 240 3 x Phobya NB E-Loops (1600RPM) Alphacool UT60 120 (White Edition) 7 x Gentle Typhoon AP-00 (2150) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
3 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 6 x Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler (2 P... Aquacomputer G1/4 High Flow Meter Swiftech MCP35x 
CoolingOSPowerCase
XSPC Photon 170 Reservoir Windows 7 + Linux Antec HCP-1300 Platinum CoolerMaster HAF XB (Modded) 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Silverstone FP58 Thermaltake Max 5 Duo Phobya 6 x 16mm Vandal Switch Plate  6 x 16mm Vandal Switches (ModSmart & Lamptron) 
OtherOther
LC Telios Red/Black Fusion, White, & Gray More To Come... 
  hide details  
Reply
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