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OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 310

post #3091 of 10612
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamerking View Post

for the aquaero 5 LT do i need to buy a heatsink for it to work http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-cooler-for-aquaero-5-new-version-20mm-high.html since i cant figure out if it has one or not pre-installed



it does not come with the heatsink. You will need if you start packing up fans there. But with only one fan per channel no.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sinnedone View Post

Quick question for you guys. How exactly does the Aquacomputer Poweradjust 3 USB - Ultra compare to a aquaero 5 LT?

I need to control nine 0.30 amp 3 pin fans. I just want to set up a temperature profile for the fans from a temp sensor in a loop and possibly later add a flow meter. The pump will be off a molex and controlled via motherboard pwm cpu header.

Oh just to make sure, the poweradjust 3 also uses the aquasuite program on its own correct?

You will be able to plug via usb and control via aquasuite as far as I understand this. version 3 seems to be improved in terms of heat I would guess just like the AQ6. It can power up to 30 w (36 w with passive heatsink) which seems to be on the limit of your fans (since they will be drawing 32 w). Only one temp sensor and if I got it right the second fan channel would have to be dedicated to your flow meter (but I might be mistaken). All in all I would go with the aq 5 lt in your case since is only 20 bucks more...
Edited by Gabrielzm - 1/13/15 at 1:57pm
post #3092 of 10612
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post

Only way is to run a secondary PSU, for accessory devices such as Aqauero, pumps, fans, lighting ect.
There is a detailed how to for the neatest, simplest way to implement a secondary psu in my Salive8 using a relay.
This is the end result of my experimentation, how it got to this stage is in the previous pages thumb.gif
EDIT: starting here

Am I understanding this correctly? The Aquaero draws standby power from the 5V on the USB (from the mobo IF supported) - NOT the molex. If this is true, and you are bringing primary power to your Aquaero from a secondary PSU, how do you maintain standby power?
post #3093 of 10612
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoostrC0gburn View Post

Am I understanding this correctly? The Aquaero draws standby power from the 5V on the USB (from the mobo IF supported) - NOT the molex. If this is true, and you are bringing primary power to your Aquaero from a secondary PSU, how do you maintain standby power?

Doesn't matter where the primary power comes from. If the USB is connected to the motherboard it will have standby power when the system is off.
post #3094 of 10612
Hey,

Just thought I'd ask before I break something
Is there any problem I might encounter when 'daisy-chaining' PWM fans together to be controlled by an A5?

I planned to just solder the wires together. Is there anything more I might need to do?
post #3095 of 10612
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GiraffePencils View Post

Hey,

Just thought I'd ask before I break something
Is there any problem I might encounter when 'daisy-chaining' PWM fans together to be controlled by an A5?

I planned to just solder the wires together. Is there anything more I might need to do?


You're sort of on the right track . . . . .

But you'll want to connect the all the reds, or +12V wires, together and all the blacks, negative wires, together, and power them from the PSU, and then connect all the PWM wires together . . and connect that to the 4th pin on the PWM capable channel.

The tach is the exception . . . . you only connect the tach wire from one fan to the 3rd or tach pin.

If you were to connect all the tach wires together, the Aquaero would see multiple signals and the display would be very erratic and way high.


Darlene
post #3096 of 10612
Need help. Connected AQ5LT to PC and it is not being detected. USB is connected as shown in here http://www.overclock.net/t/1385615/aquaero-5-pro-usb-cables-correct-polarity, fans are spinning but no device in aquasuite. Any ideas what to do?
post #3097 of 10612
Quote:
Originally Posted by electro2u View Post

Ugh. I have been looking for that package of screws for 2 hours. Reorganized everything and found some 1/2" heatshrink I looked for for 2 hours other day but no screws.

Here's the Fastenal SKU number and a link:
M3-0.50 x 5mm DIN 7991 Class 10.9 Black Oxide Flat Head Socket Cap Screw
Fastenal Part No. (SKU): 40920
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/flat-socket-cap-screws/_/Navigation?term=m3+.5+5mm&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=%20~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600039%20Sockets%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600042%20Flat%20Socket%20Cap%20Screws%22|~


I got my screws in from Fastenal yesterday. They look great (as usual) and work. No more ugly silver screws on my nice black Aquaero faceplate.

My only comment is, if I was ordering them again, I wouldn't go with the M3-0.50 x 5mm screws, I would go with M3-0.50x6mm or even 8mm. The 5mm length ones are just on the hairy edge of being short. I only got about 3/4ths of a turn on them before they max'd out. It's not too big a deal, I used some Loctite to make sure they don't come loose easily and fall out. So something like the 8mm would be better as you could get some more threads on them.

Just a note for future Aquaero owners looking to clean up the look of their black face plate Aquaero.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/40922
post #3098 of 10612
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

I got my screws in from Fastenal yesterday. They look great (as usual) and work. No more ugly silver screws on my nice black Aquaero faceplate.

My only comment is, if I was ordering them again, I wouldn't go with the M3-0.50 x 5mm screws, I would go with M3-0.50x6mm or even 8mm. The 5mm length ones are just on the hairy edge of being short. I only got about 3/4ths of a turn on them before they max'd out. It's not too big a deal, I used some Loctite to make sure they don't come loose easily and fall out. So something like the 8mm would be better as you could get some more threads on them.

Just a note for future Aquaero owners looking to clean up the look of their black face plate Aquaero.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/40922

+1'd. It's true... I did actually find the screws squirreled away a few days ago and they looked pretty tiny which is why I didn't notice them several times while looking. Now that you mentioned it I do remember thinking they wouldn't work when I first got them in, but they did and I forgot all about it. The silver screws are certainly not 5mm so this is excellent advice, as 5mm screws are not going to be useful for much of anything besides this application.
post #3099 of 10612
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

You're sort of on the right track . . . . .

But you'll want to connect the all the reds, or +12V wires, together and all the blacks, negative wires, together, and power them from the PSU, and then connect all the PWM wires together . . and connect that to the 4th pin on the PWM capable channel.

The tach is the exception . . . . you only connect the tach wire from one fan to the 3rd or tach pin.

If you were to connect all the tach wires together, the Aquaero would see multiple signals and the display would be very erratic and way high.


Darlene

Thanks for your response.

So the tach wire is not needed, only from one of the Fans.
everything else gets connected together.
2 wires to a molex connector and PSU. (Red and Black)
2 Wires to a 4Pin header and Aquaero. (Tach from one fan and PWM)
post #3100 of 10612
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

I got my screws in from Fastenal yesterday. They look great (as usual) and work. No more ugly silver screws on my nice black Aquaero faceplate.

My only comment is, if I was ordering them again, I wouldn't go with the M3-0.50 x 5mm screws, I would go with M3-0.50x6mm or even 8mm. The 5mm length ones are just on the hairy edge of being short. I only got about 3/4ths of a turn on them before they max'd out. It's not too big a deal, I used some Loctite to make sure they don't come loose easily and fall out. So something like the 8mm would be better as you could get some more threads on them.

Just a note for future Aquaero owners looking to clean up the look of their black face plate Aquaero.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/40922

Those are good for the XT. For the Pro, button heads work well and 5mm is plenty because the XT has a thicker face with the extra touch screen layer.

Changed mine out for black ones as soon as I got it.
Kusanagi
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3570K Asus Sabertooth Z77 EVGA GTX 780 SC Corsair Vengeance Pro CMY16GX3M2A2133C11 16GB 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB X2 EK Supremacy Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 Pro Aqua Computer D5 USB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacomputer MPS 400 flow meter EK-CoolStream PE 360 EK-Coolstream PE 240 Noiseblocker Eloop B12-PS 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Vardar F2 EK-FC Titan Acetal & Nickel EK-RAM Monarch X4 Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ 
OSMonitorMonitorPower
Win 8.1 Pro 64 bit Samsung S27A750d LG E2290V-SN Silverstone Strider Plus 850W ST85F-P 
Case
Corsair Obsidian 750D 
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Kusanagi
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3570K Asus Sabertooth Z77 EVGA GTX 780 SC Corsair Vengeance Pro CMY16GX3M2A2133C11 16GB 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB X2 EK Supremacy Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 Pro Aqua Computer D5 USB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacomputer MPS 400 flow meter EK-CoolStream PE 360 EK-Coolstream PE 240 Noiseblocker Eloop B12-PS 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Vardar F2 EK-FC Titan Acetal & Nickel EK-RAM Monarch X4 Clean CSQ - Acetal+Nickel EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ 
OSMonitorMonitorPower
Win 8.1 Pro 64 bit Samsung S27A750d LG E2290V-SN Silverstone Strider Plus 850W ST85F-P 
Case
Corsair Obsidian 750D 
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