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post #5681 of 11107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

Yes, the software is just a programming and monitoring aide ... it is not required. The Aquaero will do its programmed job even if not connected to any PC

wow sounds awesome

will see if my RVE can provide similar functionality if not will pick up a 6 Pro

thanks
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post #5682 of 11107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

That loop will easily exceed 1GPM ( about 225LPH)

Unless the new Bitspower GPU blocks are suddenly very restrictive then you should be much closer to 300LPH than to 200, and maybe at very minimum speed you might get the meter to hit its minimum but one of my loops has more blocks and narrower tube and struggles to push any less than 90LPH

Thanks for chiming in Jakus. I hope you are right, because then I would be in the best of both worlds, with both a high-flow loop and an appropriate sensor!
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post #5683 of 11107
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

Thanks for chiming in Jakus. I hope you are right, because then I would be in the best of both worlds, with both a high-flow loop and an appropriate sensor!

It is a rare loop these days that would be better off with a 200 rather than 400.

I never really understood the decision to go with the models they made. A 225lph flow has long been the agreed ideal so a 200 is immediately under that and a flow less than 80lph takes a very weak pump. At the same time very few would come close to maxing out the 400. With modern components I can't imagine a use for any model besides the 400, and would love to see what someone does with a 100.
It's the nature of restriction and water flow that sees flow rates in most water loops falling into a fairly narrow range where the 200 is too low and the 400 unnecessarily high.

My favourite meter is not actually the 400 though. It is my custom model. By taking a 200/100 and boring it's restrictor orifice out to 6.5mm you get a more accurate device with a more useful range. It falls into the gap between the 7mm 400 and 6mm 200. Naturally that means you can't use any of the default calibrations but if you want an accurate meter you need to create your own anyway.
Edited by Jakusonfire - 10/7/15 at 12:33am
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post #5684 of 11107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post


My favorite meter is not actually the 400 though. It is my custom model. By taking a 200 and boring it's restrictor orifice out to 6.5mm you get a more accurate device with a more useful range. It falls into the gap between the 7mm 400 and 6mm 200. Naturally that means you can't use any of the default calibrations but if you want an accurate meter you need to create your own anyway.

Sounds like a fun project... do you have calibration data for the Jakusmeter?
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post #5685 of 11107
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

Sounds like a fun project... do you have calibration data for the Jakusmeter?

I'm working on it. I can provide a cal for 10mm hard tube and 3/8 soft tube. After that I might grab some 16mm hard tube and fittings too.
The only thing is that it may not transfer super well to other devices because it will depend on how well the hole is drilled. A drill press would be best as even small differences will matter. Even so I am sure it will be better than the standard cals! biggrin.gif
Edited by Jakusonfire - 10/7/15 at 12:50am
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post #5686 of 11107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

I'm working on it. I can provide a cal for 10mm hard tube and 3/8 soft tube. After that I might grab some 16mm hard tube and fittings too.
The only thing is that it may not transfer super well to other devices because it will depend on how well the hole is drilled. Even small differences will matter. Even so I am sure it will be better than the standard cals! biggrin.gif

Maybe for my next build then biggrin.gif I'm almost done with the current one (waiting for a rad to replace a brand new UT 60 240 mm that leaked like a sieve), but otherwise complete. I used soft tubing though, haven't been brave enough to try hard acrylic yet
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post #5687 of 11107
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

Maybe for my next build then biggrin.gif I'm almost done with the current one (waiting for a rad to replace a brand new UT 60 240 mm that leaked like a sieve), but otherwise complete. I used soft tubing though, haven't been brave enough to try hard acrylic yet

Oh man, you are missing out. Give it a go as soon as you can. Maybe even just start with a small section. No need to fully convert all at once though to get all the benefits it is best. Its easy.

It can be a bit expensive depending on how you do it but for the immediate visual improvement the cost is negligible compared to other things. Aesthetics is important to me though more than for many others.
Edited by Jakusonfire - 10/7/15 at 12:58am
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Kusanagi
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post #5688 of 11107
I finally started playing with curving my pumps and fans off Delta T:


Shown is Delta T (water temp from a protruding probe fitting in-path (-) air temp at the front intake fans), Delta T-based curve for the pumps, Delta T-based curve for the fans, the previous curve I was using scaled off package temp, and package temp itself

The graph is 10s resolution, taken while playing Pillars of Eternity. Previously my fiance was complaining of the changes in fan speed waking her up at night. The bold black line is the fan and the green the linear pump curve off Delta T, while the red line is the Package-based curve. I think the behavior toward the beginning of the graph is what she was talking about smile.gif

Now to get some sleep and test with BF4 tomorrow night thumb.gif

Anyone braving IBT off these curves or just a 100% point controller?
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Daedalic
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post #5689 of 11107
What happens if I want to get rid of that loose wire and foil (im sleeving stuff). I tore it open because I have second one.
post #5690 of 11107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anateus View Post

What happens if I want to get rid of that loose wire and foil (im sleeving stuff). I tore it open because I have second one.

I did a little "how I shortened and sleeved my USB cable"
Ideally you would want it looking something like this after cutting and stripping...

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