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post #6881 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by saintruski View Post

Edit: didnt mean to quote

Just got mine, must say not impressed with build quality. all the stamping for the wording is worn like it was used, thats aesthetic. however on the backside all the connectors look like they were poorly soldered on, all the soldering looked great expect one looked almost bridged...i had to sponge it up and fix it myself. but the seating looks shoddy if you look at pwm 1 and 2, fans 3 and 4, and the NC NO COM Relay area and flow areas.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Hopefully it makes up for it

Seems this issue has gotten glossed over. Can Shoggy or anyone address this?

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cozmo85 View Post

On my A6 the aluminum front panel was in really rough shape as well. The black replacement i ordered at the same time was perfect. Maybe I should contact them about a replacement silver panel.
This is getting ridiculous, does Aquacomputer have any kind of quality control standards?
The propaganda from Shoggy over the past few years hasn't rectified anything yet either.
Still non-conforming mounts, faceplates poorly glued on, and this nonsense.

Yeah, every company has the odd issue, but for a controller this expensive, and not a high-volume item, there is no excuse.

Do I still want to buy one? Of course.
But seeing these issues is keeping me from doing so.
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post #6882 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post


This is getting ridiculous, does Aquacomputer have any kind of quality control standards?
The propaganda from Shoggy over the past few years hasn't rectified anything yet either.
Still non-conforming mounts, faceplates poorly glued on, and this nonsense.

Yeah, every company has the odd issue, but for a controller this expensive, and not a high-volume item, there is no excuse.

Do I still want to buy one? Of course.
But seeing these issues is keeping me from doing so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical View Post

Seems this issue has gotten glossed over. Can Shoggy or anyone address this?

Thanks

Ive been in contact with aquatuning (place of purchase) for the last couple of days about my issues, my last contact was this morning. They contacted aquacomputer, they say the seating was all case by case basis. the translation was hard, my guess is they are saying every one is not going to be perfect im guessing they are not soldered in an automated factory line and done by hand or something so they assured me the product was fine (obvious just the build quality was meh, if you have guys hand soldering it you would think they have them using template block/frames to have them soldering it on there as straight as possible every time) . The worn stamping, scratched metal, scratched screen they had no explanation how it happened, again my guess everything is totally done by hand and someone had an off day on my unit, they are sending me a new face plate. as far as the bridged connection went I am fairly good at soldering and already fixed it and there was nothing they could do about that anyways no that its fixed.

All in all good customer service from Aquatuning and Aquacomputer, and someone must have had a bad day there at the manufacturing plant by my estimation.

Edit: they said aquacomputer is sending me a new face plate ill guess i update when i get it...if i get it "You get the replacments in the following days." no tracking, fingers crossed.
Edited by saintruski - 2/24/16 at 12:43pm
post #6883 of 11219
Other than that mine has been perfect. The screen was perfect as well.
post #6884 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by saintruski View Post

Edit: didnt mean to quote

Just got mine, must say not impressed with build quality. all the stamping for the wording is worn like it was used, thats aesthetic. however on the backside all the connectors look like they were poorly soldered on, all the soldering looked great expect one looked almost bridged...i had to sponge it up and fix it myself. but the seating looks shoddy if you look at pwm 1 and 2, fans 3 and 4, and the NC NO COM Relay area and flow areas.







Hopefully it makes up for it

Seems this issue has gotten glossed over. Can Shoggy or anyone address this?

Thanks

I'll agree with the paint on the front being an issue, as far as I am concerned the stuff sitting at an angle may look more professional if it were straight, but imo a non issue as it does not affect anything, as to the solder, you don't have any pics for me to comment on
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post #6885 of 11219
I just got my D5 with aquabus and it came with a 3 pin cable and a usb cable. I also have an aquaero 6. Do i need the 3 pin plugged into High and the usb cable hooked up? I thought I only needed the 3 pin. Or do i have to buy a 4 pin cable?
post #6886 of 11219
you dont need a 4 pin, 4th pin just supplies voltage which the pump gets from the fat 4pin connection to the psu
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post #6887 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

you dont need a 4 pin, 4th pin just supplies voltage which the pump gets from the fat 4pin connection to the psu

I figured it out. When i first connected it via usb to set it up. i never clicked the floppy disk icon to save it to the device so it was still looking for usb control.
post #6888 of 11219
Just ordered a AQ 6 XT. I want to connect 2 DDC pumps to it, each on a separate channel. An EK 3.2 DDC and an EK 3.1 DDC.
Now I read somewhere that I can supply the pumps with voltage through the AQ 6 instead of molex. More so to reduce cable clutter.
I also will be installing the passive heat sink to be save.
I can't find any information anywhere on how to do this mod.

Also, the other 2 fan channels will be hooked up to 2 modmytoys PWM PCB splitters each with 4 EK Vardars 120 ER. Now I know I need to get rid of the RPM signal of 3 fans on the splitter.
Would this be as easy as just cutting the pins for the RPM signal off of 3 out of 4 fan connectors on the PCB.

Any help would be much appreciated thumb.gif
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post #6889 of 11219
Fitting the Aquaero 6 XT with Aquacomputer Passive Cooler. http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=280849

I run both of my ddc pumps off one header with out issue.

Yes you can remove 1 pin from 3 of the headers or see if the splitter has those leads defeated
Edited by apw63 - 2/25/16 at 6:04am
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post #6890 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDKing2 View Post

I use the clear version of this top on my two D5's http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hf-d5-top-black-acetal-g1-4-vpp655-tpp644-mcp655-v-2.html For me- this or the EK Both of these tops outperformed a standard Laing pump top in a test I read.
I used a separate res inline with an in/out. Many mount a res right on the side inlet with the pump motor facing down. With the inlet and discharge lines hooked to the top. IMO bleeding is harder because the air tends to go through the pump and not get caught in the res.

Thanks for the recommendations, gang! Will order today.

As to the front faceplate print, it's sounding like saintruski getting it resolved thru both vendor and maufacturer. However, as Cosmo chimed in, this may not be an isolated issue. I guess when I get mine I'll have to inspect and, if needed, get support immediately. I do wish they had an option for buying AQ w/black faceplate, and not an extra charge for a worthless silver one that will be scrapped. Same goes for the reservoir.thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif
Edited by ShortBtwnHdset - 2/25/16 at 8:40am
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