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WD Caviar Black just died?

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
I am pretty sure my 2TB WD Caviar Black HDD just took a poop. It was working a few days ago and did some work on my computer in the mean time. I added an EVGA 770 between that point and before it I helped build a friends computer where I removed my LG BluRay drive to load windows(which ironically also does not work. It can see the unit under "my computer" but when I put a disk in I get no response that a disk was inserted. Double clicking just opens the tray telling me to put media in drive.).

The HDD is my biggest concern since I never opted to back up the information on it. I am potentially losing all my kids pictures and videos. Anything else I could care less about.
I have swapped the HDD into a different computer with no luck. I took out my notebook HDD and hooked up where the desktop HDD was and it immediately is seen.
Coming to the conclusion the PCB died. Upon searching I found the below link. Sounds like its worth the 60.00 venture and they will even evaluate the issue before hand. Has anyone heard of this place? Does anyone have any more troubleshooting processes I can try before sending out my HDD? The 60.00 isnt an issue, but data recovery itself can be upwards of 1000.00(from what I read). I'd like to exhaust my resources before doing such.

Again, I cannot see my drive at all. Any tips on this part?
Also the HDD has a date on it of 21 Feb 2013. In other words this drive failed way too soon.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn2eL4o-6Eo

Thank you.

PS.
Any ideas for cloud storage. I saw Google Drive just dropped monthly price of 1TB to 1.99. Free for up to 15gb.
post #2 of 21
Have you tried different SATA ports? What about trying a boot from CD/USB thumb drive distro of Linux to see if the drive pops up and works there (do this RIGHT after trying different SATA ports and this will eliminate possible Windows issues COMPLETELY).

Other than that sounds like the hard drive might be busted...as the saying goes...if it looks like crap and smells like crap it's probably crap.

So yeah...different SATA and Linux distro. That will eliminate the most common factors.

The fact that your optical disk drive no longer works though is also most peculiar. Might be a bigger issue like the motherboard or power supply shorting some stuff out. Certainly doesn't seem "normal" to me at all.

Hope this helps some! thumb.gif
post #3 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndroidVageta View Post

Have you tried different SATA ports? What about trying a boot from CD/USB thumb drive distro of Linux to see if the drive pops up and works there (do this RIGHT after trying different SATA ports and this will eliminate possible Windows issues COMPLETELY).

Other than that sounds like the hard drive might be busted...as the saying goes...if it looks like crap and smells like crap it's probably crap.

So yeah...different SATA and Linux distro. That will eliminate the most common factors.

The fact that your optical disk drive no longer works though is also most peculiar. Might be a bigger issue like the motherboard or power supply shorting some stuff out. Certainly doesn't seem "normal" to me at all.

Hope this helps some! thumb.gif

Just tried swapping Sata ports and no luck. I also took my HDD to a friends house and tried on his computer, no luck.
To add to my list of woes, my water cooler was not working last night (h80i). Neither of my fans were on and I am pretty sure my pump wasn't cycling. Everything was connected but I am hoping it wasn't too late(I am typing to you from the computer so I hope this is a good sign) as my CPU reached temps of 105 C. I know this is way high so I am not freaking out about this. Current temps right now are on average of 28 C with the high of 41 (according to Real Temp GT). 4th core appears to be running the hottest by 4-7 C.

After playing with the USB headers and fan connectors I was finally able to narrow it down to the PSU. Either I had too many items on one SATA output from the PSU (SSD, h80i, bluray drive) or one of the outputs are bad or not working properly. I swapped the bluray and h80i onto a separate SATA power cable from the PSU and both kicked on.

To give a time line, during the Titanfall beta my Thermaltake PSU died. I sent it out for an RMA and received a new one that I never used(gave that to a friend for his upcoming build). I saw a slickdeal for a seasonic gold 750w for a decent price and picked it up. This is what I have been using since the reviews were high on the seasonics(maybe it wasn't this model everyone was praising).

As I stand right now my PSU might be the culprit. Any ways to measure output to see if there is an issue? I have a DMM(digital multimeter). The water cooler is working again, the bluray seems to have power as well. Just booted up Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs. I will attempt to troubleshoot the HDD one more time and see if I can test the PSU for out of spec variances.

In the time it took to write this the temps have not exceeded the above numbers so the water cooler is indeed working.

Thanks.
post #4 of 21
Thread Starter 
Just tried the HDD again using power from what appears to be a good output from the PSU. No luck.
post #5 of 21
Might sound dumb, but are you absolutely sure the drive is not working?
It's possible you somehow removed the drive letter. Without a drive letter (C: - D: - E: - F: - etc) it will not appear in the My Computer window, causing most unfamiliar people to assume it is dead or unresponsive.

To look for a drive without a drive letter, you can go to the Disk Management section in the Computer Management window.
From there, you can change/assign/remove drive letters.

This is what it should look like.
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/Bb457110.f12zs01_big%28l=en-us%29.jpg

Here is how to get there.
Win XP: https://www.microsoft.com/resources/documentation/windows/xp/all/proddocs/en-us/snap_disk_admin.mspx
Win Vista: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windowsvista/ht/disk-management-vista.htm
Win 7: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windows7/ht/disk-management-windows-7.htm


Once in there, just don't go trying to format anything or change driver letters unless you're certain the drive is the right one.
If you have a drive without a letter, adding one will not cause any problems, but removing/changing them however can if something is set to access files from it.
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post #6 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow11377 View Post

Might sound dumb, but are you absolutely sure the drive is not working?
It's possible you somehow removed the drive letter. Without a drive letter (C: - D: - E: - F: - etc) it will not appear in the My Computer window, causing most unfamiliar people to assume it is dead or unresponsive.

To look for a drive without a drive letter, you can go to the Disk Management section in the Computer Management window.
From there, you can change/assign/remove drive letters.

This is what it should look like.
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/Bb457110.f12zs01_big%28l=en-us%29.jpg

Here is how to get there.
Win XP: https://www.microsoft.com/resources/documentation/windows/xp/all/proddocs/en-us/snap_disk_admin.mspx
Win Vista: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windowsvista/ht/disk-management-vista.htm
Win 7: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windows7/ht/disk-management-windows-7.htm


Once in there, just don't go trying to format anything or change driver letters unless you're certain the drive is the right one.
If you have a drive without a letter, adding one will not cause any problems, but removing/changing them however can if something is set to access files from it.

Positive its dead. I tried that step above as a very first step. The drive just doesn't spin, no power going to it.
I have bit the bullet and sent it out for the free "consultation." If it works I am out only 60.00, if not I am out return shipping until I can afford to have the "arm and a leg" data extraction.
post #7 of 21
Thread Starter 
Just received this message from DonorDrives.

Seems like I made the mistake of not making a back up. $975.00 for data retrieval.

Any idea who is more reliable then WD? Puts a sour note in my mouth that a less than 1 year old Caviar Black died. WD will warranty the drive, but I lose all the info (I was expecting that, which is why I didn't bother).

Our technician finished the diagnostics of your hard drive and was able to determine that the original PCB was defective and required a replacement. We used a compatible board and after a necessary adaptation, were able to test the drive for any additional failures it might have had. Unfortunately we determined that the drive had suffered from a burnt pre-amplifier chip as well. The hard drive HDA (Head Disk Assembly) contains multiple heads that are in charge of reading the data from the platter surface and Pre-amplifier, in turn, is responsible for the functionality of these heads. Generally this failure occurs after a hard drive suffered from a powerful electrical shock or, in more rare cases, due to physical damage. Regular wear or a manufacturing defect may also cause it. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_crash

Burnt Pre-amplifier is considered to be a mechanical failure and in order to retrieve any valuable information still located on the drive, an advanced data recovery service is required. A quote for such service is attached in this e-mail. If you’d rather not proceed with the recovery, we can provide with details on return shipping. Alternatively, we can securely dispose of your failed HDD free of charge as part of our new responsible e-waste recycling program. We are very sorry that your hard drive failure could not be solved by a less expensive means. Please get back with us if you have any other questions about any of the proceedures and processes. We will gladly go over everything with you.



Understanding Pricing
Yes, the data recovery prices are generally high, but keep in mind the following:
Our company specializes in providing the parts, tools, and support to other data recovery companies and specialists. We are advanced hard drive and data professionals, and have the staff with the necessary equipment to process any data recovery case. Occasionally, in order to maintain stable workflow for our technical staff, we do provide our own data recovery services. Because Donor Drives does not advertise data recovery services, our prices are generally half of what a professional data recovery service provider would quote for such failure.

As for guarantees, any service that requires a replacement of mechanical parts inside of the hard drives is quite risky and difficult. The hard drive heads are moving a mere nanometers above the platter surface, which contains the actual data and if damaged even slightly, may cause the data to be lost. Replacement or exchange of these heads requires extreme caution and precision, followed by hours (in some cases – days) of thorough calibration.
If we are not able to recover all your data and bring it up to your satisfactory level or an atempt fee is specified for your project, there will be no charges made for the service.

If you require an immidiate service, please contact us at 1.800.733.0978 or email the Sales Department at sales@donordrives.com
post #8 of 21
975 dollars is cheap if its mission critical or irreplaceable data.
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post #9 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master__Shake View Post

975 dollars is cheap if its mission critical or irreplaceable data.

The money is already out of my pocket and on the way to pay for it.
I learned an expensive lesson about backing up all data today.

More upset on the WD drive failing so young.

You are right those, this is mission critical and 975.00 is worth 10 years of kids photos and videos.
post #10 of 21
My heart goes out to you, truly :/ There are some things that you just can't put a price on, and I am truly sorry that you had to "learn the hardw ay".


As for what I would replace it with? Whatever drives you choose, I personally have yet to find a better drive than the WD10EZEX 1TB Blue (the Blacks are, in my experience, far less reliable, and slower), and for $100 you have two for RAID1, 200 gets you the ideal array-ngement (hehe) that is RAID10, but regardless, you NEED to have a BACKUP ONLY external drive/array as well, that you plug in only once a week for as long as it takes to update the backup, and which is kept unplugged from both the computer AND power outlets AT ALL OTHER TIMES.
Personally, I don't consider data secure until I also have a remotely located physical backup as wel, and for familypics/video and such, I wwouldn'tsettle ffor less than a drive in a safety deposit box. If you get two identical say 3TB USB3.0 externals to back up a 1-2TB RAID1/10, rotate the externals every month or so. Weekly backups, then every 1st or 15th or whatever put it in the bank box and take the other one home, do weekly backups, and rinse/repeat.


Short of the end of the world, it would require you being the unluckiest man I've ever known to exist to lose a RAID10 array, a fully isolated local backup, AND a remotely located physical backup in a bank vault!
   
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