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one of the washes on the corsair h100i back plate fell off should i reinstall it ? - Page 3

post #21 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by orndorf77 View Post

but what thermal paste will I have to use to get that drop in my temps ? I don't want to use a thermal paste that will make my cooler permanent I mite want to change my motherboard one day

To get a 4c-5c drop you'd need to switch from the worst TIM to the best TIM, meaning some crappy 50cent TIM to the liquid metal tims. The Corsair uses Shin Etsu which is pretty decent stuff. I wouldn't bother upgrading the TIM ATM, maybe in the future. The Liquid Metal tims are VERY electrically conductive, if you get it in the CPUs pins it will fry, if you ceramic TIM in the pins then you have better heat transfer between the pins and the plastic socket, which is pretty pointless but that's all it will do. XD I accidentally got a pretty good drop of ceramic tim in my AMD socket, which the pins are on the CPU so it was pretty impossible to get out of the mobo socket. Didn't matter because I had ceramic paste, but if I had liquid metal tim I'd be in for a bad day.


Liquid metal TIM isn't permanent per say, you just need a special solvent to remove it after it's cured. Anyways generally people only insist on liquid metal TIM if you're using it for delidding, meaning between the CPU die and the IHS. If you want to squeeze every bit of performance out of your setup go ahead and use it, just be aware of the risks.
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post #22 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

To get a 4c-5c drop you'd need to switch from the worst TIM to the best TIM, meaning some crappy 50cent TIM to the liquid metal tims. The Corsair uses Shin Etsu which is pretty decent stuff. I wouldn't bother upgrading the TIM ATM, maybe in the future. The Liquid Metal tims are VERY electrically conductive, if you get it in the CPUs pins it will fry, if you ceramic TIM in the pins then you have better heat transfer between the pins and the plastic socket, which is pretty pointless but that's all it will do. XD I accidentally got a pretty good drop of ceramic tim in my AMD socket, which the pins are on the CPU so it was pretty impossible to get out of the mobo socket. Didn't matter because I had ceramic paste, but if I had liquid metal tim I'd be in for a bad day.


Liquid metal TIM isn't permanent per say, you just need a special solvent to remove it after it's cured. Anyways generally people only insist on liquid metal TIM if you're using it for delidding, meaning between the CPU die and the IHS. If you want to squeeze every bit of performance out of your setup go ahead and use it, just be aware of the risks.
how about the cooler master thermal paste tiger direct has for $8 is that a decent thermal paste ? or is the pre applied stuff corsair gives you is better ? the reason I'm considering the cooler master stuff id because that's what my local tiger direct has
Edited by orndorf77 - 3/16/14 at 12:34am
    
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post #23 of 26
i think the pre applied stuff from corsair is ebtter than cm paste

if you live near a MIcrocenter they have IC diamond paste, or even the Artic Silver

I personally used both Artic Silver 5, IC DIamond, Zalman ZM STG1. I've reapplied it (3x within a week) and tested it over that week for each product, and found that IC Diamond gave me a bit of an edge over the other 2 products by just 1-2 C

All in all they are all great compounds
    
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post #24 of 26
The product itself usually has a LOT less of an impact than the flatness of the surfaces and the application quality. Generally the waterblock and the IHS can form a convex shape over time just from natural expansion/contraction of metals as they heat up/cool. You then have rounded surfaces trying to mount, this will cause the surfaces not mounting properly. Over time it's advised to lap the surfaces every once in a blue moon. Then there's application, thermal paste was not made because it's good at transferring heat between the two surfaces, it was made because air is an extremely poor medium for transfer. Most all surfaces will never be perfectly flat, they will have scratches, marks, etc. When mounting the IHS and the waterblock together air gets trapped in there, which transfers air very poorly. Now thermal paste itself is usually very poor at transferring heat, but the actual amount of thermal paste between the two surfaces is, ideally, VERY thin and is just there to keep air out. You can find the actual temp difference between a bare IHS to CPU mount vs one with thermal paste with a brief google search, but that really isn't necessary, my point is application quality will make much more of a difference than switching to a different ceramic paste. The pre applied stuff has JUST the right amount of paste on it for optimal mounts, it's really counter productive to wipe it off and reapply if you don't have to.
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post #25 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

To get a 4c-5c drop you'd need to switch from the worst TIM to the best TIM, meaning some crappy 50cent TIM to the liquid metal tims. The Corsair uses Shin Etsu which is pretty decent stuff. I wouldn't bother upgrading the TIM ATM, maybe in the future. The Liquid Metal tims are VERY electrically conductive, if you get it in the CPUs pins it will fry, if you ceramic TIM in the pins then you have better heat transfer between the pins and the plastic socket, which is pretty pointless but that's all it will do. XD I accidentally got a pretty good drop of ceramic tim in my AMD socket, which the pins are on the CPU so it was pretty impossible to get out of the mobo socket. Didn't matter because I had ceramic paste, but if I had liquid metal tim I'd be in for a bad day.


Liquid metal TIM isn't permanent per say, you just need a special solvent to remove it after it's cured. Anyways generally people only insist on liquid metal TIM if you're using it for delidding, meaning between the CPU die and the IHS. If you want to squeeze every bit of performance out of your setup go ahead and use it, just be aware of the risks.
what makes cool labatory liquid pro harder to install ?
    
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post #26 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by orndorf77 View Post

what makes cool labatory liquid pro harder to install ?

It tends to froth, it's highly electrically conductive so if you get it in the socket your mobo is screwed, if you you get some on any of the components and don't see it, it'll fry them. Since it's a liquid metal it needs a special solvent to be removed. Other than ALL that, not much else.
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