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How bad is the damage? Shorted PSU - Page 2

post #11 of 23
I would try to RMA it or buy a new PSU. The components that got fried are SMD components so unless your good with soldering its going to be hard to get it worker again, let alone safely. I would suggest to wait for a replacement/new PSU, otherwise you risk potentially damaging your components.

Hope this helps!
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post #12 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadBanger13 View Post

So wouldn't it be possible that just the fan operation got messed up (cause the fan doesn't work at all) and therefore the PSU got really hot when gaming, and then shuts off? Because, at first i gamed around 30 minutes, then the PC shut off and (not knowing there were this problems with the PSU) I turned it on again and start plaiying again, this time staying on like 10 minutes.
I thought high-end and high-power PSUs contained circuitry to shut off everything if it sensed overheating, but I've never been able to find any specifics about this. Also Ultra told me that their 400W V-Series, made by Wintech, would inherently start reducing output at around 55 Celcius and therefore not catch fire.

I don't see damage in the fan controller section, but chips and transistors can blow out even without showing external signs, or the other section of the circuit board affected the fan controller. The PSU still working without the fan indicates that HardwareSecrets.com is right, and the board monitors the PSU for overvoltage but does not than regulate the voltages. I'm betting on one of those transistors (3-terminal devices with "Q" next to them) being bad, either the big one or tiny one. Transistors can be checked with the diode check or ohms function of a multimeter and usually fail by shorting. At least this circuit board is in the low voltage section, meaning it's going to be hard to create an electrocution hazard by repairing it improperly.

I would RMA the product if it's still in warranty, but if it's not and you paid for it with a credit card, you still may be covered because Visa and Discover add up to a year to factory warranties that are no more than 3 years long, while American Express adds coverage even to 5-year warranties. Amex and Visa coverage is very good. I haven't tried Discover's (which may not have been in effect for all customers, until recently), but Mastercard coverage (only for 1-year or shorter warranties) can be awful, and when a friend tried to get his $50 hard disk covered, they insisted that he provide a written diagnosis (> $50) but would not reimburse him for it.
post #13 of 23
Thread Starter 
Well, I'm actually from Mexico so warranty would be very difficult and more expensive than buying a new one. I've been doing a lot of research on how this monitoring circuits work, and something could be very bad with the unit.

Apparently my PSU doesn't have Over-Temperature Protection, so the shutdowns can't be due to the high temperatures, therefore some other monitoring system must be shuting down the PSU, so something it's wrong aside from the fan not working. I don't want to risk my components, so i'll be buying a new PSU. I think Corsair CX600M will do.


Thanks a lot for your help, specially Lary, highly appreciated.
post #14 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadBanger13 View Post

Well, I'm actually from Mexico so warranty would be very difficult and more expensive than buying a new one. I've been doing a lot of research on how this monitoring circuits work, and something could be very bad with the unit.

Apparently my PSU doesn't have Over-Temperature Protection, so the shutdowns can't be due to the high temperatures, therefore some other monitoring system must be shuting down the PSU, so something it's wrong aside from the fan not working. I don't want to risk my components, so i'll be buying a new PSU. I think Corsair CX600M will do.


Thanks a lot for your help, specially Lary, highly appreciated.

You should not go with a CX if you have the money for something better
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post #15 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammong View Post

That Antec Earthwatts 750 has a 3-year warranty. If you can find your original receipt, send it back to Antec and get it replaced. Their warranty replacement used to be pretty good, though I haven't RMA'd anything with them in a few years.

Greg

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatfieco View Post

Should be covered under warranty. Antec has always been excellent to deal with in my experience.

most psu cant be opened without void warranty.

and you cant take these pictures without opening.
     
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post #16 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadBanger13 View Post

Well, I'm actually from Mexico so warranty would be very difficult and more expensive than buying a new one. I've been doing a lot of research on how this monitoring circuits work, and something could be very bad with the unit.

Apparently my PSU doesn't have Over-Temperature Protection, so the shutdowns can't be due to the high temperatures, therefore some other monitoring system must be shuting down the PSU, so something it's wrong aside from the fan not working. I don't want to risk my components, so i'll be buying a new PSU. I think Corsair CX600M will do.
Try the power supply forum at BadCaps.net because there are lot of very talented electronics technicians and engineers there.

You'll likely find lots of helpful information if you can locate the datasheets and application notes for the dwa107n181 chip and the surface mount chip on the opposite side of the circuit board. Unfortunately searching for the dwa107n181 results mostly in hits from Chinese companies selling the part, rather than in information.

Why any attempt at repair will be a fun learning experience/frustration/reason to give up all hope in life:

I'd first remove the transistors (at least 3) and test them. If they're all OK, then I'd probably give up because the defect is most likely in one of the two chips. But if any transistor looks bad, I'd proceed with repair by first trying to read the markings on the burnt parts. It seems most are resistors ("102" -- 10 followed by 2 zeroes, or 1,000 ohms; the parts marked "201" are just upside down -- I think), but there may be some ceramic capacitors (tan when not burnt, probably no markings) and diodes (black, white stripe at one end). Be careful not to rub off the markings with friction or solvent. It helps if you have access to an identical PSU so you can compare the parts and measure them. Don't measure with the AC power plugged in, unless you know how to work around high voltage and have someone else in the room to resuscitate you if you get shocked. Next, I'd clean up the circuit board with a toothbrush and alcohol. Most likely the circuit board itself isn't burnt but only the transparent coating on it (usually polyurethane). A stronger solvent will probably be needed, like lacquer thinner or acetone, but they damage circuit board material. A guide to removing such coatings: http://www.paryleneconformalcoating.com/conformal-coating-removal-rework If the board itself is charred, the areas between the copper tracks will have to be scraped clean of any conductive charcoal. BTW don't bother doing that with high voltage boards because you can't be sure all the charcoal has been removed -- destroy and throw away such affected boards. Once the board is cleaned, remove all the burnt components and replace with new ones. Check those big resistors that are standing up -- look for cracks, burns, and measure their resistances. Replace any bad transistors. Put back the PSU cover and screw it on completely before testing -- never test any other way.
post #17 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by shilka View Post

You should not go with a CX if you have the money for something better
is the superflower that you recommended better than the cx600 regarding the components not the total wattage?
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post #18 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by RushFudge View Post

is the superflower that you recommended better than the cx600 regarding the components not the total wattage?

Yes
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Seravee
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Intel Core I7 6850K Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Kingston HyperX DDR4 Savage 3000 MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 Evo WD Green WD60EZRX  WD Red WD80EFZX 8TB  Seagate Ironwolf Pro 10 TB 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingOS
LG CH12NS30 x5 Noctua NF-A14 FLX Noctua NH-D15S Windows 7 64 Bit 
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post #19 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadBanger13 View Post

Well, I'm actually from Mexico so warranty would be very difficult and more expensive than buying a new one. I've been doing a lot of research on how this monitoring circuits work, and something could be very bad with the unit.

Apparently my PSU doesn't have Over-Temperature Protection, so the shutdowns can't be due to the high temperatures, therefore some other monitoring system must be shuting down the PSU, so something it's wrong aside from the fan not working. I don't want to risk my components, so i'll be buying a new PSU. I think Corsair CX600M will do.


Thanks a lot for your help, specially Lary, highly appreciated.

Let me ping Antec for you - see what they say thumb.gif
post #20 of 23
Hi HeadBanger13,

Thank you for the heads up on the issue of your PSU. Can you do us a favor and please submit a trouble ticket on our website by going to this link:

http://www.antec.com/index.php?page=support_online

Once you've submitted the ticket, PM me your ticket ID number so I can work on processing your RMA. We will offer you a different PSU as a replacement for your unit. We are sorry if this caused an issue with your unit. We will provide you an instructions on the RMA and you will get the replacement resolved soon.

Thanks thumb.gif
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