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Advice on 1st time WC build

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Hi, so I'm thinking about building a loop, these are the parts I'm going for:
  • 1x Swiftech Maelstrom Dual Bay 1 Laing
  • 1x Laing DDC-1T 12V 18W
  • 2x Black Ice Stealth GTS-LITE 240
  • 1x EK-FC R9-290X - Acetal + Backplate
  • 1x EK-Supremacy - Acetal CPU Block
  • 2x Corsair SP120 120MM Twin Pack
  • 10x EK-CSQ G1/4 Fitting
  • 1x Primochill 10/16 3.0M white tube

So besides the coolant is there something I am missing? Will everything work together?
I checked online and the two 240 rads fit inside my R4, I'm just not sure about the fittings and tubing size.
Any input in cost savings is also appreciated since I'm looking at around 550€ in parts which is a lot.
Thanks smile.gif
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post #2 of 7
Can't really help much on pricing since I assume you're not in the US. Some advice: get some distilled water and be sure to flush your loop a few times before adding your coolant of choice. Oh and make sure you plan your loop out so you can flush it easily. It's quite frustrating to get it all together and then not be able to easily flush it!

Components look good though! thumb.gif
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post #3 of 7
That radiator you have selected needs some pretty high speed fans for optimal performance. I suggest looking at the Alphacool ST30 if you are in need of a thin radiator. It is the best performing thin radiator at speeds under 2000 RPM. The ST30 is also cheaper than the Black Ice rad. If you can fit a thicker radiator, the Alphacool XT45 and UT60 are both great choices as well. I suggest getting the thickest radiator you can while still maintaining push-pull radiator fans. Push-pull on a thin rad always outperforms just push or just pull on a thick radiator.

You may want to get a few angle adapter fittings. You may not need them, but they come in real handy when you need to make a tight bend in which kinking would be an issue with a straight fitting.

Another way to cut some cost is to use barbs instead of compression fittings. If you get 1/2" barbs and 7/16" ID tube then you don't need clamps to hold the tube on the barb since it's such a tight fit of the slightly smaller hose on the slightly larger barb.

And if you aren't already, look at purchasing the DDC-1T from bmaverick. It's only $35 plus shipping.

For fans, the SP120s are notorious for being loud. And they are somewhat expensive. Yate Loons are a great, cheaper alternative. As well as XSPC Xinruilian fans
post #4 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post

For fans, the SP120s are notorious for being loud.

My SP120's are perfectly quiet. Then again I have the lower speed model. Good overall advice though.
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Simply Green
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post #5 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slider46 View Post

My SP120's are perfectly quiet. Then again I have the lower speed model. Good overall advice though.
Thanks. I was looking to SP120s when I got a second radiator and I was told by multiple people to get GTs instead because of how loud SP120s were. And after reading some reviews and watching some videos all commenting on the noise level, I ended up just sticking with GTs throughout. So I've never really tested myself.

EDIT: Although, the noise level is only an issue running at full speed. Running them at lower speeds will make them quieter
Edited by morencyam - 3/20/14 at 2:34pm
post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 
I'll check the Alphacool rads but at first sight they are more expensive than the GTS around here. I still need to compare more stores or maybe buy the parts from the US.
Also I didn't knew about the flushing so thanks for the heads up thumb.gif
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post #7 of 7
You'll want to flush the radiators prior to installing the loop. You don't want and crud from the radiators to get trapped in an of the waterblocks or pump. Flushing with hot tap water works fine. Just make sure you give it one final flush with distilled water
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