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First WC Loop - PWM Fans / Splitter PCBs and more! - Page 2

post #11 of 26
simple enough to explain since he is so good at slacking right now

if you want a link ok and if not, keep reading. i wont go look for pics. im lazy

you need a molex extension cable. you need a double throw single pole switch. 1 of these. it is an on-off-on switch
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-Conduct-Tite-16-Amps-On-Off-On-toggle-switch/_/N-25ec?itemIdentifier=297184_0_0_

fan ground wire stays connected to ground(black) from psu. red from psu(5v) goes to top connector. yellow(12v) from psu goes to top connector. middle connector goes to fan positive.switch up is 12v and switch down is 5v
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post #12 of 26
Thread Starter 
Excellent, it seems I must look more into it. Can you link any recommended reading? I really haven't a clue where to even strat with this kind of wiring stuff!
post #13 of 26
Do note the normal fan 5V / 7V / 12V -> molex type connector just uses the 5V / 12V lines.
7V is the 5V & 12V power.

There are various controller strategies available that don't require an open drive bay.

I think T-Balancer(s) are still available, not sure if they are still in production.
These were pretty nice programmable, internal parts that could fans/pumps in both analog and PWM modes. I have used the "BigNG" and it works pretty well.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/tbalancerbigng.html

There is also a FanAmp Fan Controller and a miniNG in this same group of parts. All of them are pretty slick. The support side is kind of lacking but you can find help if you dig around.

To answer what may be your next question - yes, you can program it once and leave it alone. It does not actually need to be attached to the usb port to perform its controlling function. You just won't have the warnings and other extras.

I think Aqua Computer has PC-Board only controllers available. This would mount internally somewhere and not use a drive bay.
You just have to talk to it from the PC, they don't have any front panel. Cheaper also.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/aqlt4wdiandc.html

These links are just to the Sidewinder site, they had nice pictures.
post #14 of 26
Sorry I'm late to the party.

Here is how I'm doing it.

First get a single double throw switch.
Here are the two switches I prefer:
SPDT ON/ON rocker switch.
SPDT ON/OFF/ON rocker switch.

The second one has 3 positions with fans off in the center. Both will be wired in the same way.

If you want 12V/7V, here is how I would do it:

PSU yellow 12V wire connected to your red (+) fan wire.
Fan black (-) wire connected to your switch center prong.
Switch high (=) pole connected to PSU black ground wire.
Switch low (-) pole connected to PSU red 5V wire.
(-) will give you 7V
(=) will give you 12V
(0) will give you power off.

If you want 12V/5V, here is how I would do it:

PSU yellow 12V wire to switch high (=) pole.
PSU red 5V wire to switch low (-) pole.
Switch middle prong to fan yellow (*) wire.
Fan blach (-) wire to PSU black (-) ground wire.
(-) will give you 5V
(=) will give you 12v
(0) will give you power off.

Before deciding which of the two methods you pick, I recommend you try running your fans on 5V. My AP-45 fans will start even on the 3.3V orange wire. But not all fans will. Some brands and models won't start on 5V.

So try your fans on both 5V and 7V before decoding.which method to use.

The two switches I linked earlier will sit in a 0.8 inch hole. But I was unable to find any 0.8 inch drill bits. So I use a 3/4 inch drill bit and I enlarge the hole with a round file.

Switches can really be a facinating thing. In fact, that's precisely what a CPU is made of - billions.of switches making O's and I's.

I made a custom alarm system in my work trailer hooked up to a set of train horns, activated by a key chain remote, and triggered by a motion detector inside the trailer. All of that is just a bunch of switches, relays, and solenoid valves hooked up together.

And really, a solenoid, or a relay, are just a form of switch.
Edited by PepeLapiu - 3/22/14 at 7:31pm
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post #15 of 26
And if interested, here is how I am configuring my switches.
One side gives the fans to my fan controller. The controller will feed the fans anything between 0 and 12V.
The other side of tge switch feeds 17V to the fans for when benching.

My 2150 rpm fans will do 27-2800 rpm on the 17V.
i'd go with 24V but my Enermax PSU would not allow it.
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post #16 of 26
Consider the Aqua Aero LT - just a PC board, all the interface is thru the USB. Mount it any where.
bigNG, miniNG, mCubed Fan Amp Controllers...programmable standalone solutions that can be installed anywhere in the chassis.

The Aqua Aero is probably a better choice, it is well documented and supported. The T-Balancer parts are really nice also just lacks a lot in direct support.

The 4-wire PWM will not be a problem for the MB header IF the 12VDC is provided from the power supply and not through the header.
The only thing that is needed for the MB to control is the PWM signal and the TACH.
post #17 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

simple enough to explain since he is so good at slacking right now

if you want a link ok and if not, keep reading. i wont go look for pics. im lazy

you need a molex extension cable. you need a double throw single pole switch. 1 of these. it is an on-off-on switch
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-Conduct-Tite-16-Amps-On-Off-On-toggle-switch/_/N-25ec?itemIdentifier=297184_0_0_

fan ground wire stays connected to ground(black) from psu. red from psu(5v) goes to top connector. yellow(12v) from psu goes to top connector. middle connector goes to fan positive.switch up is 12v and switch down is 5v

I think you had a brain fart here. If you connect both psu 12V and psu 5V to a single top connector, you'll be shorting your psu.
I think you meant to say one of them to the top connector, and the other to the bottom connector !?!?!
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post #18 of 26
Just so you have an idea of the size and look of the switches I linked earlier.
Here is a pic of them installed in my front I/O panel.
I drilled the holes crooked so ordered an other panel to do it again.

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post #19 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by old geek View Post

The 4-wire PWM will not be a problem for the MB header IF the 12VDC is provided from the power supply and not through the header.
The only thing that is needed for the MB to control is the PWM signal and the TACH.

This is not entirely true.
Some fans will not handle a PWM signal that has been weakened by splitting it too many times. For example the SP120 fans will just run at full speed all the time if more than 4 of them are connected to a single PWM mobo signal.
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post #20 of 26
The Corsair SP120's are not 4-Wire PWM fans, they are 3-wire.
The 3-Wire PWM method is different, in that case the drive voltage is a modulated square wave.
The 4-Wire PWM you have power, ground, tach and pwm. The PWM signal is only control. If you loose the PWM control signal these devices usually run at 100%.

Both methods can be affected by the number of devices connected.
I use these bad boys, they control fine with analog voltage regulation.

btw - if you look at the some of the silencer solutions packaged with a lot of the fans ( silverstone fans come to mind ) they have a 5-VDC / 7-VDC / 12-VDC plug attached to a single 4-pin molex connector. If you look closely you will notice that the 5-VDC (red) and 12-VDC (yellow) wires are common to the 7-VDC connector. This is due to 12 - 5 = 7-VDC.
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