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Someone is selling a CRAY XD1 on eBay.... - Page 3

post #21 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by subassy View Post

Pretending for a moment I knew what I was talking about I believe 220s are being installed for charging peoples 100% electric vehicles. So it be relatively easy to find somebody to install a circuit like that. Relatively. Maybe.

From what I've seen and my little understanding of it. 220v goes to all residential houses, depends how you wire it to get 220v or 110v. Many appliances use 220v for example driers do. Also I do think cars use it. If you have an electrician do it I sure hope they know how to wire a simple plug. There are different phases to but I don't know exactly what they are. Also I think if your fuse panel has fuses with two switches conected together that's a 220v circuit. Like mentioned above by coachmark2 I don't think 110v circuits usually go above 20amps in a house. 220v for sure can, 30amp circuit for a welder or more. Makes sense that this server uses 220v now that I think more about it. If it uses 2200watts on 220v that'd be 10amps but if it needed that on 110v it would be about 20amps.
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post #22 of 40
I have a front panel from Jaguar. rolleyes.gif
post #23 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by cones View Post

From what I've seen and my little understanding of it. 220v goes to all residential houses, depends how you wire it to get 220v or 110v. Many appliances use 220v for example driers do. Also I do think cars use it. If you have an electrician do it I sure hope they know how to wire a simple plug. There are different phases to but I don't know exactly what they are.

Yes, exactly correct.

Normally in a home, there are black, red, and white wires. White is the "neutral" or "return" wire, which is the equivalent of "ground". If there are green wires, they are specifically to ensure that metal housings are grounded to each other. Green wires all return to the white wires and/or actual "ground" which is a long metal stake driven into the ... wait for it ... ground. If you have power poles, you will see 3 wires at the junction of home and "cord" from the pole.

The voltage from black to white is "120" or 115 volts AC. The voltage of red to white is 115 VAC. Black and red are 180 degrees out of phase, so when measuring the voltage between them, you get "230" volts (more like "208 volts nominal"). The red, black, and white wires are what feed dryers, ovens, and stoves. Note: where there's natural gas, dryers will only use a normal 115V plug to spin the motor. Ranges and ovens with NG may omit voltage altogether, though modern units have 115V to power displays and ignition units.

My workplace has "3 phase" where there's black, red, blue, and white. Take the voltage between any colored wire gets you 230V. Got me what the heck happens inside 3 phase machinery for that stuff, but my vertical mill LOVES it. It's the only appliance in my workplace to use 3 phase.

I just bought a 230V UPS to run my server cabinet on. Cuts the current in half and thus also the power consumption. Ideally, you'd run everything that is 230V capable on it and your power bill would get cut down. Look at the panel near the power cable on many many appliances and you'll see they are 230V capable without any changes...
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post #24 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by unexpectedly View Post

I just bought a 230V UPS to run my server cabinet on. Cuts the current in half and thus also the power consumption. Ideally, you'd run everything that is 230V capable on it and your power bill would get cut down. Look at the panel near the power cable on many many appliances and you'll see they are 230V capable without any changes...

And you were doing so good too..

Sorry, but switching to 220-240V will not use less power.

Lets break this down:

I have a heater that is 1500W at 110V. It has the ability to run on both 115V and 220V. Awesome right?

Using Ohm's law we know that P = E X I. Well we have a constant here P which I said was 1500W, right? We also have a variable here E, we know the heater can handle 2 types of voltage. So lets solve for I.

I = P/E

1500W/120V = 12.5A and 1500/220V = 6.82A

Hmm wait a second. Less current? Yup, but that doesn't matter to us at this point, the power company charges per kWh!

Now when you get into big things like industrial or maybe even a Data Center. You pay per blocks and the Power Commission also checks your Power Factor.
    
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post #25 of 40
Watts is amps/volts correct? So its just a measurement of consumption per hour? Wish I remembered more about it from my physics class.
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post #26 of 40
I think it's amps x volts = watts...
 
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post #27 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by cones View Post

Watts is amps/volts correct? So its just a measurement of consumption per hour? Wish I remembered more about it from my physics class.

No.
Quote:
Originally Posted by subassy View Post

I think it's amps x volts = watts...

Yes.
    
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post #28 of 40
$40k is pretty steep.

This Cray isn't old enough to have the same sort of history, nostalgia, or mystique, you'd get from a museum piece like a Cray-1 or 2, and it's not new/fast enough to be a good value at this price for actual use.
Edited by Blameless - 3/28/14 at 10:58am
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post #29 of 40
Was just backwards then.
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post #30 of 40
My School had 3 Cray supercomputers with 96 Xeon quad cores each (Core 2 Quad era), over 1000 cores total !
2 of which were sitting around not even running at the time.

So I started folding one on of them biggrin.gif
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