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Did I Kill my R9 290?

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I just bought an XFX R9 290 last week and it was working great. I pulled it out yesterday and installed a full coverage block on it to add into my loop. I followed the instructions, applied the thermal pads correctly and even took EK's suggestion and added some thermal paste on the VRMs to increase thermal conductivity to the pads, for that I used some Arctic Cooling MX-3 (not electrically conductive). I used CoolLaboratory Liquid Metal Pro on the GPU die and was careful not to splatter any of it while I was spreading it on the die. I used the plastic washers on every screw for the block. I did not install a backplate

When I turned on my PC the monitor never turned on but it seemed to boot ok. I did not let out any magic smoke. I am able to still use my computer using the integrated intel graphics on the CPU/motherboard. Once into windows I am unable to see the 290 listed as a device in the device manager, the AMD drivers give me an error, and GPU-Z only sees the intel display adapter.

I've tried re-seating the card, switching around the 6+2 pin power adapters and even switching the tiny (BIOS selector?) switch on the 290 but no luck. Even without the power cables plugged in to the card, the computer still boots without any issues.

Does anyone have any ideas? Did I just break my new video card?





    
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post #2 of 13
It's possible that you overtightened the block and cause too much flex on the PCB, or something is grounded out.

I'd suggest reinstalling the block and trying again.

Maybe a different PCI-E slot too?
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post #3 of 13
was the stock heatsink difficult to remove?
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post #4 of 13
Put the stock heatsink back on and see if it makes any difference.
post #5 of 13
Check electrical contac around the core. When i applied liquid metal i put some enamel on those contacts. After a couple of days, when i opened my card, i see some metal between the core and contats. Without enamel (.. silicon or electrical tape...) you risk burning the card.
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookiesowns View Post

It's possible that you overtightened the block and cause too much flex on the PCB, or something is grounded out.

I'd suggest reinstalling the block and trying again.

Maybe a different PCI-E slot too?

I'm going to try this next.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoid.srg View Post

was the stock heatsink difficult to remove?

The stock heatsink wasn't very difficult to remove, (no thermal adhesive was used, only paste and pads). So I didn't have to pry it off or anything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

Put the stock heatsink back on and see if it makes any difference.

It works! So the card isn't dead, just something wen't wrong when I installed the waterblock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ottoore View Post

Check electrical contac around the core. When i applied liquid metal i put some enamel on those contacts. After a couple of days, when i opened my card, i see some metal between the core and contats. Without enamel (.. silicon or electrical tape...) you risk burning the card.

When I removed the waterblock I noticed a very small amount of liquid metal did spill out off the die (forgot to take a picture). But it didn't look like it bridged a connection between any of the components around the die, though it was hard to tell. I'll try re-seating the block with just MX-3 next time. Did you also add thermal paste to the VRMs in addition to the pads? I'm wondering how much of a difference that actually makes.
    
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post #7 of 13
Why would you u use Liquid Metal Pro.
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post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZealotKi11er View Post

Why would you u use Liquid Metal Pro.

I used liquid metal pro because of it's superior thermal conductivity to other TIMs. I've used it successfully on my CPU after I delided it on the die and IHS, as well as on numerous laptops. However this video card has components (SMD capacitors?) located pretty close to the GPU and some liquid metal may have created a connection between them when the block was seated. It seems like I used slightly too much TIM on that application. Since draining my loop just to take out the waterblock and reseat it a complete PITA I am going to use the non electrically conductive MX-3 paste I have on the GPU and call it good.
    
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post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamer_013 View Post

It works! So the card isn't dead, just something wen't wrong when I installed the waterblock.
Good to know you don't have a busted $700 graphics card on your hands. You really dodged a bullet if it grounded out and you didn't damage anything. Definitely use mx3 or mx4 when you reseat it and be really careful with how much you put.
post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
Reseated the block with the MX-3 and everything is working now! Phew, that was close. Thanks a for all the help and suggestions. GPU temps are mid 40s under load but the VRMs still get up to 95C over time (when mining, just to stress test it, not the main purpose of this card) which is a little disappointing. But I'll try adding some heatsinks on the back of the PCB and maybe a fan to help cool the VRMs
    
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